I'll try my best to explain this... When I'm at a higher speed such as 55+, while braking to slow down for a red light or traffic, the steering wheel starts to shake. Sometimes it can be very minimal and other times it can be a lot. When I'm I'm at 35 mph or below, it doesn't seem to shake/wobble at all while breaking. I really don't think the wheels are out of balance and the air pressures are fine. Just cusious if anyone had any insight on this or have experienced the same thing, thanks.
Marcel13
First, make sure you don't have loose lug nuts. I know that sounds dumb and obvious but don't assume anything. But form what you are describing, it sounds you have bad rotors.
---------- Post added at 08:51 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:50 AM ----------
Brake Failure Causes - HowStuffWorks
---------- Post added at 08:51 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:50 AM ----------
Brake Failure Causes - HowStuffWorks
I'd check all brake components first. Rotors principally, then the pads, then the fluid level/condition.
If everything is up to par there, check all the suspension parts.
From my experience, the last time I had this happen was in a Nissan Sentra, and my tie rods were bad, and my ball joints had started to crack (late night rally races really do take a toll on such a little car). And that was after I already had the brakes done (with all new pads AND rotors), four new tires, and a precautionary alignment. Ended up costing well over $500, and it still wasn't fixed.
If it's still in warranty, bring it to Kia and have them check the caliper pins and the harder to reach/find without a shop jack suspension parts. They'll be able to tell you exactly the problem, and give you an accurate price quote, all at no charge.
And if your service advisor is as nice as mine, they might even throw in a complimentary car wash too.
If everything is up to par there, check all the suspension parts.
From my experience, the last time I had this happen was in a Nissan Sentra, and my tie rods were bad, and my ball joints had started to crack (late night rally races really do take a toll on such a little car). And that was after I already had the brakes done (with all new pads AND rotors), four new tires, and a precautionary alignment. Ended up costing well over $500, and it still wasn't fixed.
If it's still in warranty, bring it to Kia and have them check the caliper pins and the harder to reach/find without a shop jack suspension parts. They'll be able to tell you exactly the problem, and give you an accurate price quote, all at no charge.
And if your service advisor is as nice as mine, they might even throw in a complimentary car wash too.
Easy one, if it does it when braking only then is its front rotor need to machined (turned) or replaced !!!!! if steering shakes its front, if rear rotors are wrapped steering wheel won,t shake that much.
1. the alignment will not cause a shake at all!
2. A Bubble or out of round tire you will get a shake at all speeds
3. the balance you will get t shake at a certain speed like say 58 to 67 mph
If you are hard when braking, then just get new rotors because when you turn a rotor it gets thin and will wrap easier!
38-year master Toyota mechanic.
1. the alignment will not cause a shake at all!
2. A Bubble or out of round tire you will get a shake at all speeds
3. the balance you will get t shake at a certain speed like say 58 to 67 mph
If you are hard when braking, then just get new rotors because when you turn a rotor it gets thin and will wrap easier!
38-year master Toyota mechanic.
Just went through this with one of my other vehicles. Caliper was seized. Rotor also needed to be machined. When I would go to brake, it was hard shaking and bumping.
Once that was fixed I still had shaking at high speeds because my front tires were bad (I needed lower control arms prior to all of this that killed my tires). As soon as I replaced the tires, almost all shaking is 99% gone. I think I should have replaced rotors though.
Once that was fixed I still had shaking at high speeds because my front tires were bad (I needed lower control arms prior to all of this that killed my tires). As soon as I replaced the tires, almost all shaking is 99% gone. I think I should have replaced rotors though.
That happens to me along with the knocking noise from a wobbly engine. I have a 2012 Kia Optima EX had an engine recall last yr where the engine stalled and it shorted the electrical panel. Engine knocking. Sounded like a drum line drummer 😳. It got replaced at 120,000 miles. Dealership thought that me being a woman I would not tell the difference in engine size, when they replaced the engine within 2 days, they said they had an extra engine laying around. I said "oh yea, well this new engine looks like a lawnmower or for a Kia Rio. I said well I'm sure Fox News would love to come out here.." Then they admitted to swapping out an engine from a Hyndai Elantra because if they get a new one it will have to come from overseas. I said yes. And I'm a nurse I will need a loaner car for me to get around in. It does not have to be a luxury vehicle. This was the 3rd vehicle I bought from them. So now that drummer came back and steering wheel shakes as I'm hitting the brakes. Lots of knocking and electrical shorts. Got all new tires and recently changed brakes pads etc. This is the 1st vehicle I have owned that is at 135,000 now. I used to trade in at 80,000 miles. But I figured, optima ex, bells and whistles PLUS new engine and panel ok a keeper. But now it's like uggh so annoying and here I go again having to deal with this and possible airbag recall.
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