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I will certainly be careful and not be that guy! I was mostly concerned about getting all of the old oil to drain with the front of the car at an elevation. All is okay with that?
I haven't had the shield off the bottom of the car to see it first hand, but I think that the drain plug is at the rear of the pan, so elevating the front of the car should actually cause it to drain better.
 
I haven't had the shield off the bottom of the car to see it first hand, but I think that the drain plug is at the rear of the pan, so elevating the front of the car should actually cause it to drain better.

Great! Thanks, Snow.
 
Are most of you guys buying the OEM filter and washer from your local dealer? If not, where is a good place to get those? I have an SX with the 2.0T.
 
Thanks, Snow. You've been a big help!

I bought the pennzoil platinum 5w-30 all synthetic for my first oil change. I read where the mobil 1 disappears a bit between oil changes.
 
Does the washer come with the filter or is that a seperate item? I'm not sure what they call it on the kia parts site.
 
Are you talking about the crush washer for the drain plug? I think my dealer gave me the one I got, because they didn't charge me for one, but I found it inside the filter box.

It's not 100% necessary to use a new one every time. I went for years on some cars by just flipping it over and re-using it.

When you switch to synthetic, or switch brands of synthetic, it's not unusal for a car to consume some for a while, but it'll stop. When I converted my first car (1978 Chevy Monza) from Yellow Bottle Pennzoil over to Castrol Syntec, I thought I'd lost my piston rings, but the consumption leveled out and it eventually stopped. Mobil1 isn't any better or worse than other brands in this respect.
 
Yeah. I was referring to the crush washer. I've heard mixed things about whether or not to change it out every time. I'll keep watch on the synthetic consumption and report my findings. Thanks.
 
I performed my first oil change yesterday at 1130 miles. I used Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 and the OEM Kia filter. When I took out the drain plug, I looked for the crush washer and I didn't see it. It looked like it may have been fused with the bigger washer that is there. Is that what I'm seeing? Does that bigger washer normally thread the plug bolt or is that the crush washer that's threading?

Anyhow, I installed the drain plug with the old crush washer I guess. No leaks that I can tell. To ensure I use a new crush washer next time, will I need to take some needle-nose plyers and forcibly remove the crush washer from the inside of the bigger washer? Also, I didn't have a 1/2" drive 17mm socket for the torque wrench to use with the plug or the filter so I guessed. I know - dangerous!! So far so good.

I've notice my MPG has risen since the oil change. BTW - The original oil is very dirty at ~1000 miles.
 
Nah..not dangerous. Don't go all ape-sh*t on it, but you're not gonna hurt it. I've never used a torque wrench on a drain plug.

The factory crush washer is painted onto the bolt. I took a pair of pump pliers and locked onto the washer, and spun the bolt with a socket wrench and it broke free. The fit is so tight, I had to thread it off the bolt. Just be careful not to grip the washer so tight that you bend it, or it'll be even harder to get off. I'm sure you're ok....I've never had one leak, even when I don't flip it over.
 
Thanks, Snow. My drain plug had a bigger washer than the crush washer the dealer gave me with the filter. Is that what I'm supposed to replace?

If not, is the crush washer supposed to go between the big washer and the plug or between the big washer and the pan?
 
It's hard to see on the drain plug because the sides of it are painted the same color as the plug. The new ones may be smaller, but they're still the ones you should use.

No..don't put another washer between the existing washer and the pan. Get the original one off at your next oil change, if you think you need to. (It'll probably seal fine for several oil changes).
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Easy Peasy oil change.....

This is a very neat product that I use on all our transport, except the motorcycles!! I have the drain valves on both the engine and tranny on our Subaru.
Really makes oil changes a breeze. Not associated, financial interest yaddayadda...just a neat product that I will install at my EX's next oil change.
FYI - The EX sump would use the F106 drain valve.
QuickOilDrainValve.com - the best way to change oil
 
This is a very neat product that I use on all our transport, except the motorcycles!! I have the drain valves on both the engine and tranny on our Subaru.
Really makes oil changes a breeze. Not associated, financial interest yaddayadda...just a neat product that I will install at my EX's next oil change.
FYI - The EX sump would use the F106 drain valve.
QuickOilDrainValve.com - the best way to change oil
I've had these on multiple cars as well. Definitely a must-have if you change your own oil.

Would the SX use F106 as well?
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Not sure but....

If the pan is the same, yes! I can only speak for the EX but my assumption is they use the same oil pan. Need to get the part number to make sure!
 
i would love to do it myself, but seein' as i don't have the space to do it i will need to take it into a place.

from what i read, it looks like they don't use synthetic for the Optimas at the dealers?

how much did they charge for your oil changes? if they did use synthetic, how much was cost?

i am gonna look around for a shop that will do it for me if i supply the parts...we'll see

i have a non-turbo by the way
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
Oil changes...

Synthetics are great....I use them in all our vehicles. Use genuine Kia filters along with new crush washers. A few Kia Dealers are on the Internet. I get mine from Deland Kia, good folks, prices and service. To save yourself a few bucks, you can buy the 5qt jugs of Mobil1 (or the synth of your choice) from WallyWorld....5w20 or 5w30, location and temperature dependent of course :) !

Some indies will let you bring in your own oil and filter and charge you shop rates. Just call and ask around.
 
I have always let the dealer do my oil changes and give him the synthetic oil to use in place of their stock oil. They only charge me $20 which includes their labor and the filter. Good deal IMO and I don't have to get dirty.

For those of you that do your own oil changes, you may want to try a Pela 6000 oil extractor or a MityVac. You suck the oil out through the dip stick pipe and never a need to remove the drain plug. Many European car dealerships (MB, VW, etc.) are using this technique. You can get all of the oil out very easily without jacking or getting dirty:)
 
So being down here in FL should i use 5w20 or 5w30.... thinking about just bringing my own oil to the dealer and having them do it.. Of course i'll be watching them like a hawk. :smile: still have a ways to go before first oil change..

The free oil change at the dealer says 3000 miles or 90 days.. I'm sure this will be voided if i come in at 1500.. I don't mind being charged a small fee but $20 sounds great..
 
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