[Marcelo]

Thanks for the info.
Mine has 3 years now and 55000Km. It's still under warranty. No check engine or codes for now.
Do you know where is it plugged? Is there anything I can do to check the harness of this sensor? Just to be sure that it is well connected...
We need to pay now to access the KGIS and with that I lost all my "knowledge"...

 

[kiaguy009]

Sensor, connector, and wiring are all internal with no outside access. Hopefully a code will show up soon so you can get it fixed under warranty.

 

[williamhood]

I recently did an ATF fluid replacement (drain/fill) at 71K miles (2nd one, first one was at 42K miles) and did the battery reset. In my ATF fluid replacement, I did the drain/fill with 6 quarts of Amsoil OE Synthetic ATF, drove it ~20 miles through all the gear ranges, etc and then did another drain/fill with the new fluid. Yes, this is a bit overkill but I wanted as much "new" full synthetic ATF fluid in the transmission as possible. The transmission had been shifting fine prior to this. After doing this, I noticed that only after the fluid had been warmed fully up (over 160°F) and ONLY from a standing start that I had what I'd call a shock. The transmission is not shifting at that point but it felt like the Torque convertor stall speed has gone up a few hundred RPM before it would engage. Hard to describe. It also didn't do this if I was very gentle on takeoffs. After driving it now (my daily driver) for two weeks it still seems to do this. No CELs or codes are present. I have not had to replace the transmission temp sensor over the 71K original miles.

So today, I to took it to the dealership to have them reset the transmission adaptive values using their GDS tool and procedure. The transmission is now "relearning" my driving style and hopefully this will clear up the issue which admittedly is minor but I want to get it fixed. There was no charge to do this for me and they were very modification friendly after talking at length to the techs. I also took them a box of donuts!

I'll report back in a month or so if this fixed my issue.

 

[williamhood]

Update: So after a month, my transmission still has a very slight "shock" going from a full stop with four people in the car and in 90°F heat. Everything else is a great as it has always been. If I creep in traffic, it doesn't do it, only a moderate acceleration from a standing stop. I suspect this will be my new normal and I'm fine with that. Actual gear shifts are great.

 

[SaugaSX]

I've has this issue since I bought my 2015 SX 5 months ago. It has a hard shift from first to second and only on first time you drive after a cold start. After it is up to temp it is very smooth.

I did take it to the dealer and they basically told me I should change my transaxle fluid which I knew was bullshit because the owners manual indicates you don't need to. The car had about 50k KM when I took it in.

So I said yes and when I picked it up the guy said they changed the fluid but it will still have a hard shift.

I told them they should fix it under warranty and they said there was nothing to fix since no code.

Anyways I left very annoyed.

Anyone have experience convincing the dealer to change the sensor without a code? What is the code that triggers this, I've seen a few different codes mentioned in this thread. I have 2 years left on warranty.

Also is this ruining the transmission at all or just an annoying thing to deal with because of the sensor?

Thanks for any guidance.

 

[williamhood]

I've has this issue since I bought my 2015 SX 5 months ago. It has a hard shift from first to second and only on first time you drive after a cold start. After it is up to temp it is very smooth.

I did take it to the dealer and they basically told me I should change my transaxle fluid which I knew was bullshit because the owners manual indicates you don't need to. The car had about 50k KM when I took it in.

So I said yes and when I picked it up the guy said they changed the fluid but it will still have a hard shift.

I told them they should fix it under warranty and they said there was nothing to fix since no code.

Anyways I left very annoyed.

Anyone have experience convincing the dealer to change the sensor without a code? What is the code that triggers this, I've seen a few different codes mentioned in this thread. I have 2 years left on warranty.

Also is this ruining the transmission at all or just an annoying thing to deal with because of the sensor?

Thanks for any guidance.

If there is no code being thrown sounds like this is just going to be the normal you will have to live with. When they did a fluid drain/fill, did they tell you if they reset the transmission computer (TCU)? Doing so will cause the transmission to relearn your driving habits with fresh fluid and over a couple of months, result in a better experience.

And yes, you must replace the ATF fluid. It IS in your manual under the Severe Service section (should be 60K miles) and unless you ONLY drive highway miles the way Kia defines "Severe Service" is normal mixed city/highway driving. Keep in mind that the myth of "Lifetime fluid" is just that because it only applies for the first 100K miles (the warranty period - after that they don't care). If it dies at 105K miles, they don't care but you are on the hook. If you had changed the fluid at ~60K miles (or sooner), then it likely won't have developed the wear problems that result in a bad transmission at 105K miles. It might last to 200K miles. Trust me, I know. I normally run my cars up over 250K miles with excellent maintenance before major transmission issues have resulted. A simple drain/refill service of $130 (our local price at the dealer) every 60K miles or so is FAR cheaper than a $3-4K replacement.

 

[SaugaSX]

Thanks Williamhood. I'm not sure if they reset the computer to learn my driving habits when they changed the fluid. I didn't notice any differences. It is weird, sometimes it doesn't hard shift between first and second at all but more often than not it does.

I should have been more clear, I know you need to change the transaxle fluid. I meant you didn't need to do it at the KMs I was at which was 50K KMs. I shouldn't have to do it until 100K KMs contrary to the the dealer who says every 48K KMs.

 

[williamhood]

Just checked quickly and the 2012 owner's manual, under "normal" conditions, states to replace the ATF 48 months 96km, @ 60,000 miles.

Under severe service the only items listed T-DGI:
Engine oil/filter
Spark plugs

Just like to add, that on the '08 Optima, the A/T was replaced at 1,700 miles because of a problem, and now getting close the 300,000 mile mark, the trans is and has been fine with only one drain and fill. Kia has no ATF replacement under normal conditions for this year, and I certainly don't qualify for the severe service interval, 36,000 miles.

Not saying one should disregard the fluid changes, but too much hype surrounds this service.
Just remember that the ATF is dyed red to distinguish it from other fluids and over time that color will diminish/change, which is perfectly normal.

In my 2012 Operators/Users manual, on page 7-18, there is a chart that lists the Severe Usage conditions (defines it) and maintenance intervals and services required. The replacement of the automatic transmission fluid is listed to be replaced at 60K miles.

To wit:

To each his/her own about if/when they do it, I'm just being "proactive" or as they say "I'd rather be safe than sorry".

 

[SaugaSX]

So I guess bottom line is I need to wait for a code to get the sensor changed under warranty?

At this point the hard shift from first to second is more of an annoyance when you first drive off. I just dont want any damage happening with the trans.

It would be nice if I could trigger the code somehow...

 

[williamhood]

So I guess bottom line is I need to wait for a code to get the sensor changed under warranty?

At this point the hard shift from first to second is more of an annoyance when you first drive off. I just dont want any damage happening with the trans.

It would be nice if I could trigger the code somehow...

Sure sounds it. If you have the sensor problem, you will know it pretty quick from what I've read and it does report the error code which the Kia techs can read. It has been much more of a problem with the Hyundai Sonata in the same model years for one reason or another ('kissing cousin' to the Optima).

 

[williamhood]

Hard to believe there would be different owner's manuals for a 2012 Optima, so wish I could read the posted chart.
As I stated before, the 2012 manual indicates as normal maintenance the ATF be changed 60,000 miles, not severe service.

Tried to enlarge the info, no go, so maybe you could enlarge the referenced material.

When you click on the attachment, it expands full size - it does for me from the website but that is on my PC with FireFox.

 

[KLN]

Where did you find this TSB?

l’ve just lost 2nd 4th 5th and Reverse gears in my Kia Optima estate?
it’s auto 2017 model, any ideas?

 

[bigbxsallday]

Tried changing ATF fluid already?

 

[KLN]

Tried changing ATF fluid already?

No I haven’t

 

[KLN]

No I haven’t

There’s no warning lights or anything on the dashboard layout which i thinks odd

 

[bigbxsallday]

Well since no CEL codes, I'd really suggest either a simple drain/fill or go all the way with a professional machine flush. New fluid cannot hurt and has helped many folks with shift issues. Luck.

 

[KLN]

Thanks for that much appreciated

 

[Drotger]

I didn't see a thread started discussing this TSB (bottom of my post), so I figured I would give my updates.

I have had this issue with my car for a while now, and the part, go figure, has been on backorder. It finally came in and I am taking the car in on Monday to get the sensor replaced, supposed to a be a 2-2.5 hour job. Here is what I have experienced due to this faulty sensor. I will give an update once its replaced early next week.

1. Hard/Clunky/Jerky Transmission shifts, sometimes even hesitated shifting: These hard shifts occur until the trans fluid has warmed-up to (or exceeded) the 176 degF that the failed sensor defaults to. Once this happens, the shifts return to normal. This is why it is hard for Service to replicate because by the time you drive to the dealership, your engine/trans/oil has heated up. (I do have the Amber Check engine light on, but have been too lazy to check what trans code it is from those listed. FYI, it's an OBD 2-trip fault.)

2. Torque Converter does not lock up immediately: This seems to be a side effect to this, but I have noticed on my drives to and from work (when I have had the hard shifts), it takes around 15-20 after I start driving until it will finally lock up and lower the engine speed an extra 200-300 RPM. It has happened enough to and from work, I know what mile marker on the interstate to watch it finally lock it up. Until this happens, you take a bit of a fuel economy hit.

=============

TSB- TRANS 043

group: TRANS
Models: See affected Table on pg 1 & 5
NUMBER: 043
DATE: May 2012

Technical Service Bulletin

SUBJECT: 6-speed AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE OIL TEMPERATURE SENSOR DTC P0711, P0712 & P0713

This bulletin provides information related to replacing the transaxle oil temperature sensor on 6-speed automatic transaxles with DTC P0711, P0712 and/or P0713. Replace the oil temperature sensor if current or history code is present; Do not replace the transaxle. To reduce vehicle repair time, this procedure can be performed with the transaxle installed in the vehicle. Photos shown are on-bench to increase the clarity and understanding of this procedure. This is a generic procedure and does not account for minor variations between models.

DTC P0711, P0712, and P0713 can be set due to a faulty PCM, an open circuit, or a bad transaxle oil temperature sensor. When either of these codes is set, the default value for the transaxle oil temperature sensor is 176°F (80° C). Prior to replacing the temperature sensor, perform a component and wire harness inspection as shown in the KGIS DTC diagnostics. Only proceed with sensor R&R after confirming proper connections, circuits, and PCM simulation checks.

I’ve been having trouble with my Kia optima 2013 with the turbo engine it has 172,299 miles. It’s a great car but lately has been giving me problems after driving it for about 30 minutes or in hot weather 15 minutes. The problem is exactly what you are describing. When my car gets warm I guess and I stop at a red light for example my car jerks or transmission get stuck on take off. Sometimes It feels like my rear tires are spinning but not moving. Once I take off the car is fine. Thank you for the info. Mechanics are telling me I need a new engine without even checking it. I recently changed the transmission fluid at Kia almost $400.

 

[sfvscottwolffsfv]

I’ve been having trouble with my Kia optima 2013 with the turbo engine it has 172,299 miles. It’s a great car but lately has been giving me problems after driving it for about 30 minutes or in hot weather 15 minutes. The problem is exactly what you are describing. When my car gets warm I guess and I stop at a red light for example my car jerks or transmission get stuck on take off. Sometimes It feels like my rear tires are spinning but not moving. Once I take off the car is fine. Thank you for the info. Mechanics are telling me I need a new engine without even checking it. I recently changed the transmission fluid at Kia almost $400.

Why is it that I see very important questions going with no reply ?

 

[bigbxsallday]

Has the OBD2 been read? Even if dash CEL not lit - there maybe a Pending code for a clue.

When was last time trans fluid was changed?