Nice work, i thought typically on a relay you wired 85 to ground, 87 to load, 30 to the power source. I know they work multiple ways but idk if the diode or resistor suppression to protect the realy will work like this way. Probly won't cause you any problems though.

 

I always made 86 my ground cause its like saying "86 the flags" but either way they should work. You are right on the 30 being the power source, but sometimes they need to be switch in order for the relay purpose to work. So far i havent had any problem with that relay. (knock on woodccasion14

 

Would you mind showing where you tapped into all those wires? That diagram seems simple enough. I just don't know where those wires are.

 

Sure thing ill have some pics up but ill have to be in the weekend. The only garage i can work on my car is at work and thats only open in the weekend :duh:


As for tapping in the wires, all i did was cut both foglight bulb sockets w/ at least 2-3ins of wire left on them. Now the fogbulb socket will have 2 wires on each of them, make one ground (-) on each of them and the positive (+)will be power wire coming from the relay. (see diagram on post #1)

Now on the wires you cut the fogbulb sockets from (factory foglight harness) you are left w/ 2 wires on each side. you need to tape up the driver side making it unusable. On the passenger side, find the (+) wire via multimeter and connect it to the relay. tape up the left over wire (-).
On the diagram on post #1, "Factory Fog Harness" is the passenger side (+) wire for the fog lights.

And the rest is just connecting the aux switch from a fuse (any fuse thats live with the engine on only) under the left of the steering wheel.

Im sorry if there isn't any pics yet...

 

Thats awesome work. Maybe post up a link for the relay/part#

And show ppl where they can find access to the wires inside the car. Undoing any given wire group usually nets a dozen or more wires and who knows where they all lead That from my perspective anyhow as an electrical noob

 

This is the relay i used:
Lot5 Car Truck 12V A 12V Volt DC 40A Relay Socket SPDT 5pin with Wire | eBay

Its a 5-pack, which will do you good even with other wiring mods

 

Was it necessary to remove the bumper for all this? I know you can pretty easily get to the fog lights just be removing the small skid plate right behind them.

 

Even if you don't have to, it's just easier to take the bumper off and work on it sitting down. I get so frustrated if things don't go my way when I work under the car inside the bumper lol sooo much harder to work that way.

 

Do you all think a dealership would have a problem with this mod? I know they are different based on which dealership you call but it seems relatively simple enough. I guess as long as I turn off the fogs before I take the car in they would never know the difference.

 

The dealership shouldn't even notice unless you tell them.
A Toyota dealer told me once that the 35w HIDs I put on my corolla are going to melt the housing, and charging me $60 per bulb to replace it back to halogens. WTF is that? haha

loman was selling harness for this purpose for $20 last year, I almost got one.

Well here you go, this diagrams on me


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loman was selling harness for this purpose for $20 last year, I almost got one.

 

Now lets see a proper wiring diagram to use the stock fog light switch on the turn signal stock.

 

Haha, the stock switch on the turn signal arm still works only with the headlights on. As for making them work w/o the headlights that's more of finding a needle in a haystack w/o a map hahaha.



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Although there is a brightness difference when you have the fog connected to the battery via relay and aux switch.
They are about 10% brighter when it's connected via battery not stock switch on the turn signal arm.

Just for your info y'all


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Not sure if there is a way to do it like my old car, but I had a 2000 Toyota Celica and we could do it by removing some wires from the relay for the fogs and add a new wire and we had full control of fogs with stock switch on the stalk. Here's a link if someone can figure this out on our cars would be awesome.
http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?t=115701


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Not sure if there is a way to do it like my old car, but I had a 2000 Toyota Celica and we could do it by removing some wires from the relay for the fogs and add a new wire and we had full control of fogs with stock switch on the stalk. Here's a link if someone can figure this out on our cars would be awesome.
Full Control Of Fog Lights (Alternative Way) - pokgai - NewCelica.org Forum


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Our fogs don't have relays. They are switched on/off by the IPS module in the cabin. When the fog switch is turned on, the switch stalk sends a ground signal to the BCM and then the BCM communicates via CANBUS to the IPS which contains outputs for both fog lights. If you wanted to mod the fog lamp circuit to come on when you want and still use the factory switch, you would need to tap into the ground signal wire from the stalk to the BCM and use it to complete the circuit for the coil on a relay.

If you do decide to bypass the IPS module and wire your fogs to a relay, one of the downsides is that you will lose the fog lamp indicator in the instrument cluster.

 

Heres a simple wiring diagram I made to bypass the fog lights. I hated it that i had to turn the foglights on w/ my headlights only or turn off with the high beam on. All you need is one 5-Pin relay and an auxiliary switch.

The wiring diagram
View attachment 15418

This is where i mounted the relay, closest to the front center. (Ignore the other relays to the right those are for the LED DRls)
View attachment 15419

Ill post pics of the foglights in operation soon, i realize i didnt have any pics on my phone.

I would check your relay to see how much holding current it is rated for. You probably need to bias the inductor with some type of voltage divider.

 

In my old car (240sx) I wired the factory fog lights to my sidemarkers aka parklights (that don't blink with turn signal) so that way when I turned on my parking lights with the headlights off my fogs light up.. Still just as bright as before and everything.. Not sure about the light on the dash tho mine didn't have one. But it was a very easy mod to do. Just make sure with any wiring done that you seal up all bare wire connections to insure no bad connections or corrison later on in life... This may or may not help with our optimas'? Just figured i'd throw my 2 cents in there also... Plus where are these pics?????????

 

If you do something like this, be sure to wire the circuit as a current divider(parallel) rather than a voltage divider(series).

 

Can you explain in more detail? what are the pros and cons to wiring them either way??

 

There are no pros to wiring it in series and likewise, there are no cons to wiring in parallel. In a parallel circuit, current is divided and voltage is constant. In a series circuit, voltage is divided and current is constant. I'll see if I can draw up a crude diagram to make it easier to see.

 

In the series circuit both resistors have the same current. In this example the current is 1.2mA. Since there are 2 resistor of equal value, they divide the voltage applied equally. With 12 volts applied, each resistor drops 6V. If the resistors were different values, they would drop different voltages based on their value. Both voltage drops must equal the voltage applied(Kirchoff's Voltage Law). While the voltage is divided between the two resistor, the current of 1.2mA is constant in both.

In the parallel circuit all three resistors see 12 volts. The current is divided between the 3 resistors. Because the resistor values are all the same, each leg of the circuit will have the same current flow. If the resistor values were different each leg would have a different current flow. In this example, the current flow is 2.4mA in each leg. In a parallel circuit all resistor values need to be converted to their inverse and added together and then converted to the inverse of the totals. In this example all resistors are 5K ohms. The inverse of 5000 is 0.0002. 0.0002 x 3 = 0.0006 The inverse of 0.0006 is 1666.7. So, the total resistance of the parallel circuit is 1667 ohms. That makes the total circuit current 7.2mA. Tje current in all legs of a parallel circuit must equal the current calculated by finding the inverse totals and applying Ohm's Law.

Here are the 12 versions of Ohm's Law where V=voltage I=current P=power and R=resistance:
voltage = volts current = amps power = watts resistance = ohms

V = square root of (P x R)
V = P/I
V = (I x R)

P = V squared/ R
P = (I squared x R)
P= (I x V)

I = V/R
I = P/V
I = square root of P/R

R = p/(I squared)
R = v squared/ P
R = V/I

 

:newomg::blowup::newomg:

 

Bah, was reading through this thread and just when the technical info was pouring out, BAM - emotional breakdown!

071K or the OP - Would you all know of a product already on the market that would allow an LED curcuit to slowly power on - STAY ON, then when switched off, slowly power down.

Maybe some sort of controller with Capacitors or some sort of active resistor circuitry??? Ideas?

 

I know what your talking about, I have my LED door handles turn off slowly like the dome lights. I just tapped into the dome lights tho. But observing from my volt meter in order to get the lights to dim, the volts would drop from 12v slowly down to 0v. Im pretty sure theres something out there for this purpose but I dont know what its called sorry

 

@MDJammin, send me a PM with exactly what you want to do, and I'll take a look at it when I get a chance and see if I can help you out.

 

u never posted pics of the fogs on...