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Intake Manifold Removal (for cleanup of carbon buildup)

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decarbon intake manifold perform procedure removal
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103K views 76 replies 30 participants last post by  sandyyprekk  
A
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Removal and Installation

1. Remove the engine cover.
2. Disconnect the battery negative terminal (A).
Tightening torque
4.0 ~ 6.0N.m (0.4 ~ 0.6kgf.m, 3.0 ~ 4.4lb-ft)
3. Remove the air duct (B).
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Remove the air cleaner assembly.
(1) Disconnect the breather hose (A), the recirculation hose (B) and brake booster vacuum hose (C).
(2) Disconnect the air intake hose (D) and then remove the air cleaner assembly (E).
Tightening torque
Hose clamp bolt:
2.9 ~ 4.9N.m (0.3 ~ 0.5kgf.m, 2.2 ~ 3.6lb-ft)
Air cleaner assembly bolts:
7.8 ~ 9.8N.m (0.8 ~ 1.0kgf.m, 5.8 ~ 7.2lb-ft)
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5. Remove the under covers. (Refer to Engine and transaxle assembly in this group)
6. Loosen the drain plug, and drain the engine coolant. Remove the radiator cap to drain with speed. (Refer to Cooling system
in this group)
7. Disconnect the PCV hose (A), the intake OCV (Oil control valve) connector (B) and the OTS (Oil temperature sensor)
connector (C)
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8. Disconnect the A/C compressor switch connector (A), the alternator connector (B), the OPS (Oil pressure switch) connector
& injector extension connector (C), the knock sensor connector (D), the MAPS (Manifold absolute pressure sensor) & IATS
(Intake air temperature sensor) connector (E), the ETC (Electronic throttle control) connector (F) and the vacuum pump
connector (G)
Image

9. Disconnect the throttle body coolant hoses (A).
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10. Remove the oil level gauge (A).
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11. Remove the intake manifold stay (A).
Tightening torque :
18.6 ~ 23.5N.m (1.9 ~ 2.4kgf.m, 13.7 ~ 17.4lb-ft)
Image

12. Remove the intake manifold (A) after disconnecting the vacuum hoses.
Tightening torque :
18.6 ~ 23.5N.m (1.9 ~ 2.4kgf.m, 13.7 ~ 17.4lb-ft)
Image

When installing, replace with new gaskets.
When installing the intake manifold, tighten the bolts and nuts with pre-torque first, and then tighten the bolts and nuts with
specified torque in the sequence shown
Image
 
#45 · (Edited)
Thanks guys. Appreciate the feedback.

I had 70k on the odo before this clean up. No OCC, regular oil 5w20, using regular gas. Only engine mod has been the CAI. Oil change every 5k miles. Used Techron fuel system cleaner every 3k - 5k miles.

Brand of oil has been whatever the dealer used. I will be switching to Mobil 1 Full synthetic in the next week or so.

After the clean up i added an OCC and changed the OEM spark plugs. With everything else staying the same.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 
#46 · (Edited)
WOW, impressive work. Glad you are gonna add an OCC and switch to synthetic. Why you got it so clean you could almost eat off that surface.. almost! Excellent work my friend!
 
#56 ·
I agree.

But every little bit helps.:thumbsup:
 
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#57 ·
Dang things got tense in here for a hot min.. LOL anyhoo.. I just did the intake clean out on the EX with 41K last night, Neighbors should be thanking me for lowering the local mosquito population for a few hours but I can really tell a difference. After the 1st clean out and drive I sucked up the other half of the bottle of sea foam and let it sit over night.. Just wanted to say thanks for all the helpful info so far from EVERYONE.. Ive only been a forum member for a few weeks but I have learned a lot and its been a real help!!!

Peace Love Chicken Grease!!!
 
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#58 ·
Glad you can tell a difference!

I'd highly suggest you now go change your oil and filter after all that solvent has gone through your engine.
 
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#64 ·
Just removed my IM for cleaning after 23,000 miles......not much coking at all. I have been running 2 x OCC for the last 3000 and I sprayed a can of CRC intake cleaner through the throttle body about 1 year ago.
Its not hard to remove, I would say its worth doing at 50,000.

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#70 ·
Julio Kia said:
Just removed my IM for cleaning after 23,000 miles......not much coking at all. I have been running 2 x OCC for the last 3000 and I sprayed a can of CRC intake cleaner through the throttle body about 1 year ago.
Its not hard to remove, I would say its worth doing at 50,000.
Click to expand...
Hmm... very interesting and informative thread! I'm glad it's not too hard to do this work ourselves as well. The Optima I just bought has 82K miles on the clock and other than seeing regular maintenance and oil changes at a Kia Dealer, I have no idea how the previous owner has cared for my car. Guess I better get on ordering those OCCs from David @ K5OS and set aside a weekend to do a bit of a tune up.

Starting up a list of things I want to tackle so that I can make sure Red will serve me for several years to come. :)

So far it's looking like:
- Fuel System Cleaner (Chevron Techron or Royal Purple Max Clean)
- Fuel filter (If it's not in the fuel tank or something like that)
- Run Seafoam through PCV
- Intake manifold cleaning re&re
- Install 2x OCCs
- Replace spark plugs with HKS plugs
- K&N Panel Filter
- Oil Change

Think I'm missing anything? :p
- Praxis
 
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#67 ·
Would depend on the level of coking, should be a noticeable difference when valves are built up with carbon. I dynoed before and after and no real difference. But my valves were pretty lean to begin with.
 
#73 · (Edited)
First post for me has nothing but x's for the pictures... is it my work set up or are the pics dead? was hoping to use this as a guide to remove my intake manifold and clean my valves

So aparently its my work pc... carry on! ;)
 
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#74 ·
I just checked post #1, it looks fine to me. All the KIA diagrams are present.
 
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#76 ·
New guy bumping an old thread.
I was worried about this as I deal with the carbon buildup while working on VW's (Tech).
And in comparison from the pictures here, The carbon on these for the mileage is kinda laughable.
I've seen worse carbon on the VW 2.0T 1.8T 1.4T at 15,000 miles.

I think to avoid this, I'll be doing the BG treatment every 3rd or 4th oil change.
I have yet to research the catch cans as mentioned above.
 
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