Back in September 2018 I received a recall notice on my 2012 Kia Optima for the Brake Pedal Stopper Pad, but under "What should you do" section it stated to regularly check to see if the Stop Lamps remain illuminated after the brake pedal has been released. So this statement assumes that Kia will not replace the faulty part until it fails. I had my Optima in for normal service a couple of times after receiving this recall notice and actually had another recall item corrected. I looked at the issue a bit and eventually had to remove the Stop Lamp fuse in order to remove power from the Stop Lamps. I also started getting an intermittent Electronic Traction Control light displayed, but assumed these issues were related. The next day I had my Son follow me closely to the dealership to have this recall corrected. After about an hour the Service Rep gave me some disturbing news that they found multiple items burned out (Stop Switch, Relay, and burnt wiring). The cost to repair these items was going to be around $545. Needless to say I was not happy, since I believed this was caused by the Stop Lights remaining on for long periods. The Service Rep maintained he could not authorize the repairs covered under the recall, so my only option was to file a claim with Kia Consumer Service. Has anyone else had this recall performed or the actual failure mode associated with it?
Hwy Star
I disagree with one of your premises - that the stop lights remaining on for long periods would result in burned out Stop Switch, Relay, and wiring.
I'm unaware of the actual wattage/amp rating, but I think it's total BS invented problems by the dealership, pulling a fast one where they figure out any and all components that are related, and assume they are all broken/burnt out.
If that premise were true, then the instruction manuals would come with a notice saying not to hold your brake pedal more than X minutes or your car will fail and require costly repairs. Rather, I feel like the lights are designed to be on indefinitely, ESPECIALLY the brake lights. Sorry but I bet your original parts were perfectly fine, and it's likely they weren't even replaced.
I was victimized this way one time (telling me my oil pan bolt was stripped and I needed a new oil pan, when that was totally invented because it was a standard TSB issue with the leaky gasket), but I knew my car and just said I didn't have the money, then verified they were lying. Then years later they lied directly to my face again (saying they replaced the steering coupling under TSB with documentation and everything, when really they lied and I verified by removing the old one myself, see my separate post), and that's where I figured it must be a standard strategy, just doing normal business. The first approach is to say everything needs to be replaced, kind of like how anyone would negotiate in a sale by underbidding first, to see how low the seller will go. Here, the dealership overbids first, to see how high the customer will go. I'm sure it's infrequent when people take back there car and actually verify they were lied to.
I'm unaware of the actual wattage/amp rating, but I think it's total BS invented problems by the dealership, pulling a fast one where they figure out any and all components that are related, and assume they are all broken/burnt out.
If that premise were true, then the instruction manuals would come with a notice saying not to hold your brake pedal more than X minutes or your car will fail and require costly repairs. Rather, I feel like the lights are designed to be on indefinitely, ESPECIALLY the brake lights. Sorry but I bet your original parts were perfectly fine, and it's likely they weren't even replaced.
I was victimized this way one time (telling me my oil pan bolt was stripped and I needed a new oil pan, when that was totally invented because it was a standard TSB issue with the leaky gasket), but I knew my car and just said I didn't have the money, then verified they were lying. Then years later they lied directly to my face again (saying they replaced the steering coupling under TSB with documentation and everything, when really they lied and I verified by removing the old one myself, see my separate post), and that's where I figured it must be a standard strategy, just doing normal business. The first approach is to say everything needs to be replaced, kind of like how anyone would negotiate in a sale by underbidding first, to see how low the seller will go. Here, the dealership overbids first, to see how high the customer will go. I'm sure it's infrequent when people take back there car and actually verify they were lied to.
Hmm, I would think there is a certain amount of fairness that comes into play, like there is an agreed-upon rate and agreed-upon hours estimate, like a schedule, that Kia corporate makes sure to pay a fair amount.
Are you saying you trust the dealership more than you trust Kia corporate? All my experience says the opposite is the case. Every time I go to the dealership they lie to me or otherwise try to swindle me in some manner. But Kia corporate is usually fair and not trying to be sneaky, incompetent, or flat out liars the way the dealership is.
Are you saying you trust the dealership more than you trust Kia corporate? All my experience says the opposite is the case. Every time I go to the dealership they lie to me or otherwise try to swindle me in some manner. But Kia corporate is usually fair and not trying to be sneaky, incompetent, or flat out liars the way the dealership is.
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