I'll bet you can get a good, maybe used, WG for a lot less than that. Where do you live that is rusted out?
Not sure brakes should cost that much either, but you need to shop around and decide if it is worth it to you.
Just had my wheels/tires rotated yesterday and there is a lot of brake pad left to go...
Good luck man.

 

Go over to Ebay, new OEM WG <$180 shipped, just bought one last week and did the install, works perfectly. Make certain new OEM unit
Not a difficult task to do if you have a multimeter and some tools. Get it and I'll explain procedure.
As far as brakes, look at RockAuto and take your pick. Once again not hard to replace, but if not mechanically inclined or don't have the tools, difficult.

 

Is. the wastegate failing pretty common on these? Why would the dealer try charging $3800 for this?

 

That is most likely correct. So not sure if anyone asked or you said, is the a CEL light on the dash? If so has it been read, what code is it? Maybe you can get away with some wd40 and a voltage adjustment, depending on CEL code?

 

Yes the check engine light is on. I do not know the code

 

There are things you can do manually, checking the waste gate voltage as mentioned above, moving the WG lever, but if no turbo ever, probably the best move would be to drop a couple hundred bucks on a new waste gate and go from there. Normally if the WG is out of adjustment, there will be boost at the beginning of the drive, then none, and each time you do a restart, same scenario, but if none change WG activator.

Had a thought, check to make certain power connection at the WG activator is connected and tight.
Back of engine there's a rod that runs horizontally that is attached the the activator. In front of the activator is the connection, believe 3 wire, bottom yellow, make certain tight. You'll need to go under the air intake to the turbo to reach the connector.

 

Are you sure the wastegate problem is CAUSED by the rust?

Instead, maybe it's just that they never diagnosed the wastegate problem, but noticed some rust and mentioned it.

However, I don't recall any postings on this website ever, about having a wastegate problem CAUSED by rust.

Instead it's various other issues that can be solved.

Now let's put 2 and 2 together here, and consider the price they quoted for brakes+rotors, I'd say they do NOT want to diagnose the wastegate problem and instead are using the rust as a way to scare you into a replacement you don't need.

Bottom line is that wastegates are notorious for going out of adjustment, so that's the most common issue that is solved by simple adjustment. There are other problems but those solutions usually have other solutions too.

 

Hey guys here’s what they sent me. I may have misunderstood. Thoughts?

 

There are 2 10 mm nuts you have to get loose on the wastegate adjusting rod and it seems to me that they gave up and want to make unnecessary repairs. spray the the **** out of the 2 nuts and get them free with a long open end wrench or needle nose vice grips if you have to and adjust the rod.

 

Don't pay for the camera. It's a 15 minute job and very strange they would charge $135 labor for that. You can order a cheap chinese camera off ebay for about $10, and we can explain how to swap the camera out.

The brakes - well, it's unclear if you need new rotors. Or even if you need new pads. Have you complained of brake problems? Have you looked at the condition of your brake pads? It's unusual that the front and rear pads would wear out at the same time, so I smell BS. I'd suggest you inspect to see if there is an issue. You can at least see what's going on by visually inspecting with the wheels on the car, just bend down there and look around.

The replacement turbo - well that's interesting, what is wrong with your turbo?

Your turbo might be perfectly fine, but the wastegate is out of adjustment.

Did the shop say if anything was wrong with your turbo?

You mentioned rust on the wastegate, but I didn't see any mention of a problem with the turbo itself.

 

We've been through this for two days, get the activator and do the install, what else can I say. A couple hundred bucks compared to $4000, and there is no rust that can contaminate the actuator as the gears inside are plastic. Guess the waste-gate lever can freeze to the control rod if it sat in the Ocean for a few years.

 

Here'a couple threads from the Hyundai Sonata Forum:

Hi everyone. Same issue with my moms car. 2011 Sonata 2.0T. Dealer says it needs a whole new turbo. Parts and labour - $4000.
I don't think it needs a new turbo. All evidence points to a new EWG actuator or simple adjustment of the rod. Unless I'm missing something...

Update: My moms independent mechanic fixed it with the EWG actuator rod adjustment. Adjusted it to proper voltage and it was good to go.

Adjustment did the job. I personally don't believe it to be an adjustment, especially when the turbo doesn't work at all, but I've been wrong before, so do an adjustment and go from there.

 

I did see a you tube of a rusted waste gate that was finally loosened after a few hours of labor...

 

It sounds similar to my 2013 SX, I just left the dealership today. For months now, any RPM over 4000 will cause my engine to buck. It's been like this since January, happened after I changed my spark plugs and engine gasket. So, no high accelerations, otherwise it shifts fine. They said the issue was an incorrect voltage from the wastegate. Its supposedly an easy fix, based on youtube. The dealership wanted $400 to do it.
Brakes and rotors, if you order from rockauto or whatever, you can get for wayyyy less. If you're handy you can change them in a few hours. The backup camera is an easy switch as well. It sounds like your car is still running great for 170k, I'm at 163k. I'd scan the odb2 port with a phone app, and check the voltage and those numbers, and then properly adjust it, it could save you a lot of money and trouble. I'm hoping this fixes my issue!

 

Been years since I did the job, but did you try and do an adjustment first?
Adjust to 4.0 volts regardless what the video states.

To replace, here's the first one I saw:

There's a small "C" clip where the rod meets the wastegate, I used a cotter pin removal hook, put my fingers on the clip and with the other hand pulled up on the C clip with the tool, but when the replacement is finished it still needs to be checked and adjusted to 4.0 volts.

These aren't the best videos, but there are others out there.

 

Thanks, I will take a look. It was at the dealership, and I did specifically ask them if the waste gate potentially just needed to be calibrated, and they said that it was failing. I'm sure they want the extra cash, but the car has 160k miles, so I figured if I could replace it for $200, I would do that.

 

Go over to Ebay, new OEM WG <$180 shipped, just bought one last week and did the install, works perfectly. Make certain new OEM unit