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2011 Kia Optima Optima
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Little update, this morning driving the work the CEL was still on, parked al day at work and when I got off in the evening, the light was still on but no more limp mode, still hearing the wastegate actuator making a lot of noise though, after driving home and getting ready and leaving again, got in the car and the CEL was gone, power is normal but the shitter noise is still present, sucks I can't have them check the actuator without a CEL light on Monday now :/
 

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2011 Kia Optima Optima
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Update from Kia dealership, actuator rod bent , warranty replacement for new wastegate actuator, hopefully no more problems picking up the car in a few days
 

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2012 Kia Optima SX T-GDI 2012
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Hi all,
Two weeks ago my wife told me she was having the loss of power issue. I went to the local Advance Auto store to have the code read. I was given the code P2562 but was told by the Advance Auto representative that there was nothing telling them what the code meant. So I went home and looked up the code P2562 and learned it meant (Turbo charger input insufficient). I then came here and searched the forum and read up on it. I gathered all the information I was able to find in this thread and a few others.
So I was feeling quite confident I would have this taken care of quite easily. But when I read the voltage on my meter I was getting -11.4 vdc at the full opened swing of the Electric WGT Control Actuator on the yellow wire and -7.2 vdc at the closed swing of the Actuator. I double checked my meter on the car battery getting -11.4 vdc between the battery terminal posts. I double checked my meter and confirmed that the positive red lead was in the proper input of my meter and that my negative lead was in its proper negative input on my meter. I had my negative lead (black) connected to the car battery negative and was using the positive (red) lead to read the voltage from the actuator using the needle method mentioned in the thread. I switched the leads to see what I would get across the battery and was getting 11.4 vdc across the battery posts, 11.4 vdc at the opened end of the Actuator, and 7.2 vdc at the closed end of the Actuator. I then checked my meter against household battery's getting 1.5 vdc across a AA battery and 9 vdc on a 9 v battery.
At this point I was convinced the Actuator must be bad. But since I was there already there and set to make the adjustment I decided that if there was any chance the meter readings were just off I might as well try a minor adjustment. Making an educated guess I decided that a minor shortening of the rod one full revolution would be the best adjustment. So I made my adjustment and checked my voltages again. I was now getting -11.4 to -7.4. Figuring that the actuator was bad and my adjustment was a mute effort I decided to take a test run. To my complete surprise the car was at full power. Somehow my mixed up meter reading did not indicate my Actuator was bad. For this I thank all who have participated in this thread.
But now I wonder if anyone can help me wrap my mind around my mixed meter readings? I welcome any explanation.
 

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2012 Kia Optima SX-T
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Hi all,
Two weeks ago my wife told me she was having the loss of power issue. I went to the local Advance Auto store to have the code read. I was given the code P2562 but was told by the Advance Auto representative that there was nothing telling them what the code meant. So I went home and looked up the code P2562 and learned it meant (Turbo charger input insufficient). I then came here and searched the forum and read up on it. I gathered all the information I was able to find in this thread and a few others.
So I was feeling quite confident I would have this taken care of quite easily. But when I read the voltage on my meter I was getting -11.4 vdc at the full opened swing of the Electric WGT Control Actuator on the yellow wire and -7.2 vdc at the closed swing of the Actuator. I double checked my meter on the car battery getting -11.4 vdc between the battery terminal posts. I double checked my meter and confirmed that the positive red lead was in the proper input of my meter and that my negative lead was in its proper negative input on my meter. I had my negative lead (black) connected to the car battery negative and was using the positive (red) lead to read the voltage from the actuator using the needle method mentioned in the thread. I switched the leads to see what I would get across the battery and was getting 11.4 vdc across the battery posts, 11.4 vdc at the opened end of the Actuator, and 7.2 vdc at the closed end of the Actuator. I then checked my meter against household battery's getting 1.5 vdc across a AA battery and 9 vdc on a 9 v battery.
At this point I was convinced the Actuator must be bad. But since I was there already there and set to make the adjustment I decided that if there was any chance the meter readings were just off I might as well try a minor adjustment. Making an educated guess I decided that a minor shortening of the rod one full revolution would be the best adjustment. So I made my adjustment and checked my voltages again. I was now getting -11.4 to -7.4. Figuring that the actuator was bad and my adjustment was a mute effort I decided to take a test run. To my complete surprise the car was at full power. Somehow my mixed up meter reading did not indicate my Actuator was bad. For this I thank all who have participated in this thread.
But now I wonder if anyone can help me wrap my mind around my mixed meter readings? I welcome any explanation.
Not sure (read back in the thread) but I think you have to measure between two of the wires on the harness, not to the car's negative ground point.
 

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Here's a DIY video I did quickly on my iPhone.

This video was very helpful and I was able to get this done this afternoon. Motor was a bit warm when I adjusted to 4.11 and as the engine got cooler, it went up to 4.15 so I will let it sit over night and check it again in the morning. Hopefully it will settle near 4.2 when its cold and I'll call it good. I used torque to monitor the EWGA voltage while I drove around and noticed that as the engine temp increased the voltage dropped to 3.9-4.0. There's an inverse relationship to voltage and engine temp.
 

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2012 Kia Optima
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Not sure (read back in the thread) but I think you have to measure between two of the wires on the harness, not to the car's negative ground point.
You can measure between the yellow wire and the negative battery terminal. Mine read 4.33 cold last night.
 

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Finally had the loss of power and fine upon restart. Also had Cel for wastegate, my 2011 is at 65,000 miles.
Took about an hour to complete the adjustment. Good as new now. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread.
 
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I have a 2012 Optima SX 2.0L
Anyways, I have been reading these threads because of my own wastegate issues. I took the car to the dealer for my issues and they said the voltage was high at 4.75V and should be set to 4.0V but everything I see on here is 4.2V. Can anyone definitively tell me what is the correct voltage foe my car so I can make the adjustments? Thanks so much!!
 

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2012 Kia Optima SX-T
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I have a 2012 Optima SX 2.0L
Anyways, I have been reading these threads because of my own wastegate issues. I took the car to the dealer for my issues and they said the voltage was high at 4.75V and should be set to 4.0V but everything I see on here is 4.2V. Can anyone definitively tell me what is the correct voltage foe my car so I can make the adjustments? Thanks so much!!
I think the range is slightly different between the Sonata and the Optima but I'm thinking that it is 4.1V±0.1V (range is 4.0V to 4.2V for normal).
 

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This is for anyone dealing with this no turbo issue. Before attempting to adjust the wastegate rod, try spraying some WD-40 on the moving parts at the passenger side of rod under the heat shield. It gets rusty under there. Just a couple of sprays should be good. Move the rod back and forth by hand to let the WD-40 get in there. Drive the car around a few miles to get it up to temp.

This worked for me. My check engine light went off after a couple miles and turbo came back. We'll see how long it lasts. This may or may not work for you, but it's worth a shot if you're not comfortable working on cars or you don't wanna spend hours trying to fix something that just needed a little WD-40.

UPDATE: Check Engine light came back on about a week later. Guess it's time to get dirty and adjust the rod.
 

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So if your like me and would rather die fixing your car than taking it back to the dealer, only to have them fail at another simple task. Then here is the fix for the turbo charger "loss of power/ restart the car everything is fine" problem everyone is bringing in their car for. I started experiencing the problem around 9,000 miles and read over the entire TSB about how they adjust the wastegate to 4.2V to make it shut sooner. But I dont have a OBD scanner or software to read the voltage on the waste gate. I do however have 10 years electronics troubleshooting experience and knew that it was reading a feedback position voltage that was coming from the electronic motor that controls the waste gate. The problem was which wire was it? Well after doing some slick piggybacking on each wire with the connector plugged it I have the answer. If you look at the connector you take off of the motor it is the yellow wire on the connector. If you piggyback off that wire while the connector is plugged in and the car is on (engine not started but radio and everything on)you will see a voltage of around 4-4.7 VDC using the battery ground as ground. As you move the waste gate rod by hand to the left (passenger side) you'll see it decrease toward 0VDC. What you want to do is pull it all the way to the right (driver side) and read the voltage. mine was actually at 4.6 VDC! So if its above 4.3 VDC you have to shorten the rod. Take the bolt off the top of the rear cover on the turbo to make room so you can move it as you need. Take the clip off of the turbo charger side (BE CAREFUL NOT TO LOSE IT!) it is a C clip with a small loop u can hook something around to pull it up and off. And there is a small washer on the other side of rod so take care not to lose that too when you take the rod off. The motor actuator side is a small locknut that i believe is 10mm. you take that nut off and the whole bar should come right off. Loosen a locknut on whichever side shows the most threads and turn it clockwise if its above 4.3VDC (making the bar shorter) and counter clockwise if its below 4.1VDC(making the bar longer). Then make a turn or two adjustment and without locking the nuts down yet put the bar back on the wastegate connection and motor connection and once again push the rod by hand all the way to the right (driver side) repeat this process until your meter reads 4.2VDC (+/- .1VDC) with you pushing the electronic wastegate actuator all the way to the right. once you achieve this lock down the locknuts on the rod and reinstall the rod reverse of removal (IMPORTANT TIP!!!!! tie a small piece of string around the small loop on the C clip when you go to put it back on as if you drop it you will spend 2 hrs like i did looking for it in your engine!!!!!) I hope this helps. I just did it to my car and shes a COMPLETELY different beast as if your voltage was over 4.3VDC it wasnt putting as much closing force on the wastegate as it should, letting exhaust gas slide on by. I would like to take it back to the dealership but after they put 5w-20 in my car when EVEN THE CAP says 5w-30 i have less than no faith in them anymore...
[/QUOTE
Thank you so much. We have loved our kia, except we have been given the run a round by a couple different service departments on different issues. Sad they make a great product and then want to rip you off at the dealerships.
 

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when you ran ur obd (Assuming you did for the loss of power) did you get a P0299 code? I can hear my turbo whine but after about 3000 rpm i can feel drag and no boost. just gas being injected with little O2. where you able to successfully rectify the issue or did it come back?
 

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So if your like me and would rather die fixing your car than taking it back to the dealer, only to have them fail at another simple task. Then here is the fix for the turbo charger "loss of power/ restart the car everything is fine" problem everyone is bringing in their car for. I started experiencing the problem around 9,000 miles and read over the entire TSB about how they adjust the wastegate to 4.2V to make it shut sooner. But I dont have a OBD scanner or software to read the voltage on the waste gate. I do however have 10 years electronics troubleshooting experience and knew that it was reading a feedback position voltage that was coming from the electronic motor that controls the waste gate. The problem was which wire was it? Well after doing some slick piggybacking on each wire with the connector plugged it I have the answer. If you look at the connector you take off of the motor it is the yellow wire on the connector. If you piggyback off that wire while the connector is plugged in and the car is on (engine not started but radio and everything on)you will see a voltage of around 4-4.7 VDC using the battery ground as ground. As you move the waste gate rod by hand to the left (passenger side) you'll see it decrease toward 0VDC. What you want to do is pull it all the way to the right (driver side) and read the voltage. mine was actually at 4.6 VDC! So if its above 4.3 VDC you have to shorten the rod. Take the bolt off the top of the rear cover on the turbo to make room so you can move it as you need. Take the clip off of the turbo charger side (BE CAREFUL NOT TO LOSE IT!) it is a C clip with a small loop u can hook something around to pull it up and off. And there is a small washer on the other side of rod so take care not to lose that too when you take the rod off. The motor actuator side is a small locknut that i believe is 10mm. you take that nut off and the whole bar should come right off. Loosen a locknut on whichever side shows the most threads and turn it clockwise if its above 4.3VDC (making the bar shorter) and counter clockwise if its below 4.1VDC(making the bar longer). Then make a turn or two adjustment and without locking the nuts down yet put the bar back on the wastegate connection and motor connection and once again push the rod by hand all the way to the right (driver side) repeat this process until your meter reads 4.2VDC (+/- .1VDC) with you pushing the electronic wastegate actuator all the way to the right. once you achieve this lock down the locknuts on the rod and reinstall the rod reverse of removal (IMPORTANT TIP!!!!! tie a small piece of string around the small loop on the C clip when you go to put it back on as if you drop it you will spend 2 hrs like i did looking for it in your engine!!!!!) I hope this helps. I just did it to my car and shes a COMPLETELY different beast as if your voltage was over 4.3VDC it wasnt putting as much closing force on the wastegate as it should, letting exhaust gas slide on by. I would like to take it back to the dealership but after they put 5w-20 in my car when EVEN THE CAP says 5w-30 i have less than no faith in them anymore...
Thank you so much for sharing. I put it off as I was afraid I couldn't do it. Didn't want to take it to the dealership as we had been screwed by two different service shops in Atlanta. Great vehicles but crooked as **** in their business practices. Immediate fix as soon as I put it on the road!!!
 

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So if your like me and would rather die fixing your car than taking it back to the dealer, only to have them fail at another simple task. Then here is the fix for the turbo charger "loss of power/ restart the car everything is fine" problem everyone is bringing in their car for. I started experiencing the problem around 9,000 miles and read over the entire TSB about how they adjust the wastegate to 4.2V to make it shut sooner. But I dont have a OBD scanner or software to read the voltage on the waste gate. I do however have 10 years electronics troubleshooting experience and knew that it was reading a feedback position voltage that was coming from the electronic motor that controls the waste gate. The problem was which wire was it? Well after doing some slick piggybacking on each wire with the connector plugged it I have the answer. If you look at the connector you take off of the motor it is the yellow wire on the connector. If you piggyback off that wire while the connector is plugged in and the car is on (engine not started but radio and everything on)you will see a voltage of around 4-4.7 VDC using the battery ground as ground. As you move the waste gate rod by hand to the left (passenger side) you'll see it decrease toward 0VDC. What you want to do is pull it all the way to the right (driver side) and read the voltage. mine was actually at 4.6 VDC! So if its above 4.3 VDC you have to shorten the rod. Take the bolt off the top of the rear cover on the turbo to make room so you can move it as you need. Take the clip off of the turbo charger side (BE CAREFUL NOT TO LOSE IT!) it is a C clip with a small loop u can hook something around to pull it up and off. And there is a small washer on the other side of rod so take care not to lose that too when you take the rod off. The motor actuator side is a small locknut that i believe is 10mm. you take that nut off and the whole bar should come right off. Loosen a locknut on whichever side shows the most threads and turn it clockwise if its above 4.3VDC (making the bar shorter) and counter clockwise if its below 4.1VDC(making the bar longer). Then make a turn or two adjustment and without locking the nuts down yet put the bar back on the wastegate connection and motor connection and once again push the rod by hand all the way to the right (driver side) repeat this process until your meter reads 4.2VDC (+/- .1VDC) with you pushing the electronic wastegate actuator all the way to the right. once you achieve this lock down the locknuts on the rod and reinstall the rod reverse of removal (IMPORTANT TIP!!!!! tie a small piece of string around the small loop on the C clip when you go to put it back on as if you drop it you will spend 2 hrs like i did looking for it in your engine!!!!!) I hope this helps. I just did it to my car and shes a COMPLETELY different beast as if your voltage was over 4.3VDC it wasnt putting as much closing force on the wastegate as it should, letting exhaust gas slide on by. I would like to take it back to the dealership but after they put 5w-20 in my car when EVEN THE CAP says 5w-30 i have less than no faith in them anymore...
I know this was years ago but your thread helped me so much. Made my 2011sx turbo find it's "Go go power" again. I am a gearhead to the fullest, always do my own work unless I have warranty. I did find an easier way than messing with that Cclip. Loosen the nut on the bar closest to the pass side, then loosen the nut on the other side that holds the bar to the motor arm. Back said nut all the way off, then slide bar off. Now you can rotate it which way you need, then put all back together. Granted I got lucky and didn't need to fine adjust the bar. To do that you will have to move both locknut's. All of this is way better than messing with that horrid clip. Unless your doing something different obviously.
 

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At the dealer for this right now, they want to replace the wastegate at a charge of $913 and say they have to use a scan tool and adjust it several times because it needs both hot/cold adjustment cycles. However he seemed stumped when I asked how air temp effects voltage... Im not super experienced in electrical gremlins so I may have to find someone else to tackle this...
 

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At the dealer for this right now, they want to replace the wastegate at a charge of $913 and say they have to use a scan tool and adjust it several times because it needs both hot/cold adjustment cycles. However he seemed stumped when I asked how air temp effects voltage... Im not super experienced in electrical gremlins so I may have to find someone else to tackle this...
I got the entire assembly, turbo and all from kiapartsnow.com for 1400 I believe it was. Dealer wanted 2800 for the exact same thing. Good thing my dealer was cool and agreed to use part that I got. Provided it was a genuine Kia part, which it was. Course my turbo blew which is why I had to replace entire thing.
 

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So if your like me and would rather die fixing your car than taking it back to the dealer, only to have them fail at another simple task. Then here is the fix for the turbo charger "loss of power/ restart the car everything is fine" problem everyone is bringing in their car for. I started experiencing the problem around 9,000 miles and read over the entire TSB about how they adjust the wastegate to 4.2V to make it shut sooner. But I dont have a OBD scanner or software to read the voltage on the waste gate. I do however have 10 years electronics troubleshooting experience and knew that it was reading a feedback position voltage that was coming from the electronic motor that controls the waste gate. The problem was which wire was it? Well after doing some slick piggybacking on each wire with the connector plugged it I have the answer. If you look at the connector you take off of the motor it is the yellow wire on the connector. If you piggyback off that wire while the connector is plugged in and the car is on (engine not started but radio and everything on)you will see a voltage of around 4-4.7 VDC using the battery ground as ground. As you move the waste gate rod by hand to the left (passenger side) you'll see it decrease toward 0VDC. What you want to do is pull it all the way to the right (driver side) and read the voltage. mine was actually at 4.6 VDC! So if its above 4.3 VDC you have to shorten the rod. Take the bolt off the top of the rear cover on the turbo to make room so you can move it as you need. Take the clip off of the turbo charger side (BE CAREFUL NOT TO LOSE IT!) it is a C clip with a small loop u can hook something around to pull it up and off. And there is a small washer on the other side of rod so take care not to lose that too when you take the rod off. The motor actuator side is a small locknut that i believe is 10mm. you take that nut off and the whole bar should come right off. Loosen a locknut on whichever side shows the most threads and turn it clockwise if its above 4.3VDC (making the bar shorter) and counter clockwise if its below 4.1VDC(making the bar longer). Then make a turn or two adjustment and without locking the nuts down yet put the bar back on the wastegate connection and motor connection and once again push the rod by hand all the way to the right (driver side) repeat this process until your meter reads 4.2VDC (+/- .1VDC) with you pushing the electronic wastegate actuator all the way to the right. once you achieve this lock down the locknuts on the rod and reinstall the rod reverse of removal (IMPORTANT TIP!!!!! tie a small piece of string around the small loop on the C clip when you go to put it back on as if you drop it you will spend 2 hrs like i did looking for it in your engine!!!!!) I hope this helps. I just did it to my car and shes a COMPLETELY different beast as if your voltage was over 4.3VDC it wasnt putting as much closing force on the wastegate as it should, letting exhaust gas slide on by. I would like to take it back to the dealership but after they put 5w-20 in my car when EVEN THE CAP says 5w-30 i have less than no faith in them anymore...
SO ya, everything you said is 100% accurate, I did this when I got a turbo replacement, and bam, worked great for a while, then I lost power on the turbo again and had to readjust the arm. WTH, I don't know how the wastegate can go out of adjustment but it did. Just a heads up to those who do this be sure to periodically check to see if the voltage(yellow wire) 4.2volts changes so you don't end up getting screwed on a road trip like me. lol mine dropped in voltage to 3.7 which didn't provide any wide up or power.
 
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