[GreekPower]

I hate NilVlrod do mine.. I felt the change ha

 

[rotwiler]

I am noticing the rattle now, so going to change the voltage from 4.5-6 and put a spring on. At 4.5 around town the car feels maybe overpowered at low speeds, I was thinking lower voltage would feel like more power off the line not higher voltage. At times kinda surges like the car wants to go on own. It doesn't do this all the time, car only has 8k miles now. This is the best thread I have found on here, very helpful.

 

[Syn]

Just got back on here after taking a few months hiatus. Glad to see this has helped so many people!

p.s. Still haven't had as much as a hiccup since I first did this!

 

[bchuh]

I tried this at home and voltage does not go lower than 4.6.

I removed heat shield, C clip and loosen the lock nut.
Checked voltage with multimeter 4.6v
Rotated rod end clockwise and counterclockwise but meter reads 4.6v~4.7v
I made rod shorter and longer and checked both voltages but it's same.

What am I doing wrong?
I think I made my car worse than before...
Please help...

 

[DINO2K]

I tried this at home and voltage does not go lower than 4.6.

I removed heat shield, C clip and loosen the lock nut.
Checked voltage with multimeter 4.6v
Rotated rod end clockwise and counterclockwise but meter reads 4.6v~4.7v
I made rod shorter and longer and checked both voltages but it's same.

What am I doing wrong?
I think I made my car worse than before...
Please help...

You don't want to give dealer a chance? I had them adjusted before New Year but the loss power came back so they ordered a new wastegate and replaced it for me a few days ago.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

[bchuh]

I've done it in dealer before. it improved performance little bit but it still does not perform as day 1.
I called same dealer and asked to take a look at it again but they refused to make an appointment nor see it because the engine light is not on. They said they can't do anything unless the engine light is on.

 

[DINO2K]

I've done it in dealer before. it improved performance little bit but it still does not perform as day 1.
I called same dealer and asked to take a look at it again but they refused to make an appointment nor see it because the engine light is not on. They said they can't do anything unless the engine light is on.

Gotcha, I know exactly what you mean. What I did was drove it straight to the dealer and show them the power loss issue and then they believe me. They did replace my wastegate afterwards only because I showed them my CEL light was on, I didn't get a chance to test for power yet after they replaced it but knock on wood. Hope you get it fix soon, this wastegate issue is very common and Im sick of hearing a lot of members affected by it as well and Kia should automatically replace it or have a recall. Anyways, rant over and GL.

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[MDJammin]

I tried this at home and voltage does not go lower than 4.6.

I removed heat shield, C clip and loosen the lock nut.
Checked voltage with multimeter 4.6v
Rotated rod end clockwise and counterclockwise but meter reads 4.6v~4.7v
I made rod shorter and longer and checked both voltages but it's same.

What am I doing wrong?
I think I made my car worse than before...
Please help...

Did you read the TSB, I'd suggest printing it out and following those instructions step by step. There are photo's other than the part where we use a multi meter to check voltage.

But you have to reconnect the rod after adj and ACC 3x on/off cycling. Then the 3rd time you ACC on, you get your voltage.


If you cannot obtain a change in voltage then you've likely stripped the gears out in the electric motor tightening the lock nut too much. It has plastic teeth on the gears inside that motor and they cannot withstand too much torque from you tightening the 10mm.

Also, the EYE on both rod ends have to be situated such that it's parallel with the backside of the 10mm nut. On the same plane. Otherwise, it might bind as the motor/wastegate moves and again strip the gears inside the motor.

The voltage spec is +/- 0.10 volts so anything within that spec should not throw a cel.

Also, make sure you check YOUR specific year model. There are different voltage specs for your PCM. They are not all the same.

 

[bchuh]

Did you read the TSB, I'd suggest printing it out and following those instructions step by step. There are photo's other than the part where we use a multi meter to check voltage.

But you have to reconnect the rod after adj and ACC 3x on/off cycling. Then the 3rd time you ACC on, you get your voltage.


If you cannot obtain a change in voltage then you've likely stripped the gears out in the electric motor tightening the lock nut too much. It has plastic teeth on the gears inside that motor and they cannot withstand too much torque from you tightening the 10mm.

Also, the EYE on both rod ends have to be situated such that it's parallel with the backside of the 10mm nut. On the same plane. Otherwise, it might bind as the motor/wastegate moves and again strip the gears inside the motor.

The voltage spec is +/- 0.10 volts so anything within that spec should not throw a cel.

Also, make sure you check YOUR specific year model. There are different voltage specs for your PCM. They are not all the same.

Thank you for the reply. I didin't know I had to do ACC 3x on/off cycling after adjustment.
I'm actually reading off from TSB. But don't know why I can't do this...
So if I check voltage right now (I'v been driven about 20 miles after adjustment) would I get my current voltage?
When you're saying reconnect, do you mean just place rod where it was without connecting C-clip?
Another question,
where does rod should be before and after adjustment? (all the way left/passenger side? or right/driver side?)

 

[MDJammin]

Remove C clip from turbo side rod end

Loosen lock nut for rod length adjustment

Turn the Eye or Rod End clockwise to lower voltage, counter to increase voltage.

To test voltage - Return rod end back to mounting pin on turbo.

With vehicle key off, Push the rod towards the drivers side and keep pressure on it while you take voltage reading.

Adjust rod length as necessary and repeat voltage test.

Once you obtained voltage reading you want. Re-assemble everything properly.

Key ACC on/off 3x and on the last ACCon take voltage reading one final time to confirm same result.

Start car n test drive.



I suggest adjusting both rod ends to have as equal threads as possible so one end of rod isn't strained.

ALSO NOTE, when tightening your rod locking nuts, hold the center of the rod with a wrench so you don't twist the end on the motor side and cause damage to gears OR cause the eye of the rod end to get out of parallel with the nut (perpendicular to mounting pin) so there is no binding. This applies to both rod ends.

 

[Yota44]

So I've read about this before and from what i understood my 13 should have been adjusted properly from the factory? I checked it tonight just for kicks and it was 3.9-4.0, I don't really have any issues so is it worth adjusting it up to 4.2? Also, this doesn't affect peak boost correct? With my torque app the highest boost I've seen was 15.6, that's about right isn't it?

 

[rotwiler]

Can anyone help me figure out how to find the ewg setting in the torque app. I had the app on my old phone and when I bought a new phone and installed the app and the kia advanced add on. The ewg isn't showing and I don't remember in past how I got it. Yesterday finally I started having the loss of turbo on startup and had to restart car for the turbo to work. So I need the ewg setting to monitor voltage now....

 

[MDJammin]

Can anyone help me figure out how to find the ewg setting in the torque app. I had the app on my old phone and when I bought a new phone and installed the app and the kia advanced add on. The ewg isn't showing and I don't remember in past how I got it. Yesterday finally I started having the loss of turbo on startup and had to restart car for the turbo to work. So I need the ewg setting to monitor voltage now....

you need the Kia Advanced Torque plugin installed. Then you have to load the proper custom PID's from the plugin app. But it's not a free plugin. There are directions on Kia Advanced down in the description and also listed on the Torque app forum if you good search it.

 

[kevinr14094]

Thank you Syn- I will have to take mine to dealer- do you know if there is a service tag on this? Already concerned, dealer said they had not ever heard of this loss of power, restart and everything is fine.
Thanks again- at least i have your info to take to them.
Kevin/Buffalo

 

[jamesbaker1975]

Ill be adjusting mine soon my torque app showed 4.5v

 

[SR11SX]

I can attest to the Kia advanced part of torque. It is a good thing to have. If someone has it they can find the all in file explorer on your device and either Bluetooth share it or send via email. OIF done mine for me at the last meet we attended a couple months ago.


Sent from Mobile Doohickey

 

[jamesbaker1975]

Ok I need some help I fixed the voltage to 4.2 on meter .but torque shows 4.0 and sometimes 3.9 then I retested it on meter shows 4.2 . But I didnt do the acc 3x on and off car doesn't seem to spool up like it did before. I read that pushing the rod by hand to driverside to 4.8v is that what I need to do .. I pushed it till I got 4.2 and went with it

---------- Post added at 10:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:12 PM ----------

Also did I need to turn off the power when I adjust the rod. Becouse I didnt do that

 

[Dysan911]

Leave the ACC on when adjusting and go by the voltage shown on your meter. Target 3.9 if you can and you'll be set!. The factory specifically states if the voltage is 4.2 or less no adjustment needed.

I find that when you try to set it to 4.2 exactly that it seems like it has a tendancy to drift ever so slighty out of sync. Each time you pull the rod back and then re-read the voltage again it will have changed a tiny bit from 4.2. Lock it in a 3.9 and it will always be under 4.2. Now when I read my voltage with the Torque App it sometimes is 3.9 exactly and sometimes it's 4.1 which both of those are desirable.

Also be sure the engine is ICE cold when you do your adjustments.

 

[K5Canada]

Here's the technical specification of the wastegate:
http://www.kiopman.com/electric_wgt_control_actuator_specifications-1063.html

At 4.2 volts, it seems that the wastegate is almost closed (12 degrees operating angle). This is the best setting since most of the exhaust gas will be redirected toward the turbine and it should diminish turbo lag. At 3.9 volts, the initial operating angle should be around 18 degrees with less exhaust gas passing through the turbine.

That said, I'm not sure I driver can detect the difference in turbo lag between 4.2 volts and 3.9 volts...

 

[Blinky_k5]

Wow this is crazy how much you guys know about this car, my CEL is on and will be bringing it to them to fix mondayensive: