Just rechecked mine. It was reading 4.8
After an hour or so with lots of fiddling and about a gallon of sweat, it reads a cool 4.1 I also found a small spring and cut it shorter too fit perfectly on the screw.
I'll see if I can feeeel a difference.
So after carefully scrutinizing this thread, I am still kind of confused just on one small part of the procedure. The KIA TSB literature (posted in this thread) says that you just loosen the nut on the turbo side of the actuator rod and then simply rotate clockwise until desired voltage is read. However many in this thread say that both sides need to be loosened and "pushed?" What does pushed mean? Do both sides truly need to be loosened or can you get away with just loosing at the nut on the turbo side (as KIA recommends) and then rotating the rod clockwise? Also, to get an accurate voltage reading does everything need to be put back into place temporarily?
So after carefully scrutinizing this thread, I am still kind of confused just on one small part of the procedure. The KIA TSB literature (posted in this thread) says that you just loosen the nut on the turbo side of the actuator rod and then simply rotate clockwise until desired voltage is read. However many in this thread say that both sides need to be loosened and "pushed?" What does pushed mean? Do both sides truly need to be loosened or can you get away with just loosing at the nut on the turbo side (as KIA recommends) and then rotating the rod clockwise? Also, to get an accurate voltage reading does everything need to be put back into place temporarily?
if you can ( I asked this in a different topic of the same issue )
what happens if the voltage is set to low? I ask because the dealership set my voltage @ 4.04v and the tsb says 4.2v
So I ended up doing it this morning and I believe the car is a bit more responsive than it was. I had crazy lag which I thought was normal before the adjustment but it seems as though it has shortened that lag. Also my BOV has become louder
EDIT: When I posted this I was driving around town. I had a chance to get on it on the expressway on my home from work last night. It was about 64 degrees outside as well. I have to say it made a huge difference for me. It feels like the turbo spools quicker = decreased lag time. Prior to the adjustment my car would put me in my seat but not as harsh as I remember it being when I test drove a brand new SXL. After the adjustment that feeling is back for sure, it puts me in my seat a lot harder than it had before. I'm happy with the results... I was at 3.8 prior to the adjustment and brought her up to 41.5.
So I ended up doing it this morning and I believe the car is a bit more responsive than it was. I had crazy lag which I thought was normal before the adjustment but it seems as though it has shortened that lag. Also my BOV has become louder
EDIT: When I posted this I was driving around town. I had a chance to get on it on the expressway on my home from work last night. It was about 64 degrees outside as well. I have to say it made a huge difference for me. It feels like the turbo spools quicker = decreased lag time. Prior to the adjustment my car would put me in my seat but not as harsh as I remember it being when I test drove a brand new SXL. After the adjustment that feeling is back for sure, it puts me in my seat a lot harder than it had before. I'm happy with the results... I was at 3.8 prior to the adjustment and brought her up to 41.5.
Well I adjusted my wastegate rod last night. I few weeks ago I checked and it was 3.81. Just before doing this It was 3.91.
On the first try, I apparently didn't get it right, even though I had the voltage set at 4.18. Got in the car and drove around, absolutely NO turbo power at all. Check engine light came on.
Parked and adjusted back to 4.01. Got back in and drove around, turbo power was back, but check engine light still was on. I restarted the car a few times I parked it and said I will let it sit til later today after I get home from work. Hopefully the light clears itself....
I have mine @ 4.04v pulls nice... I dont break tires loose in 1st though...
Pulls hard in 3rd and 4th
i can get the tires to break off if i mash durring a turn... Dont know how indicative that is to power/torque curve
im looking into getting a dashhawk to start monitoring the psi through all gears and rpms...
Hi folks. I wanted to resurrect this not so old thread and check with those that set their voltage to 4.15, How it's holding up? Is 4.15 the preferred setting or 4.3?
I bought my 2012 Optima SX used so I had no reference to feeling any degradation of performance but curiosity get the better of me so I checked my car and the voltage was 4.53 I adjusted it and its now 4.15 and sometimes it will read 4.09. But usually more consistent with showing me 4.14/4.15. I have not gotten a chance to take the car out for a test drive due to heavy rains but I did start the car and so far no check engine lights or anything.
Does my adjustment essentially move more boost to top end, like on the highway and less on the low end now? Since I never felt what the car was like brand new I am curious to see if I notice any difference. From reading this thread, I believe it was said anything over 4.3 volts would be the most noticeable after correction.
Special thanks to 11snowwhitesx for the video. That helped a lot!.
Alright, So yeah I'm talking to myself at this point I realize LOL. But I just had to share the fact that after further reading up on this subject and even the OP of this very thread recommended 4.2 as the voltage to hit. Well I checked my car this morning stone cold and it was 4.14 so I figured lets shoot for 4.2. OMG! This has been the most grueling, tiresome pursuit I have done in a long long time!. Oh I could hit 4.31 or 4.11 ALL DAY LONG but anytime I got close to 4.2. I move the waste gate back and forth one cycle to make sure it was still good and it would be way off and not to mention when you try to turn those lock nuts down it might turn the shaft ever so slightly and be off again.
After several hours I finally got it to hit 4.22 and I'm sticking with that.
Alright, So yeah I'm talking to myself at this point I realize LOL. But I just had to share the fact that after further reading up on this subject and even the OP of this very thread recommended 4.2 as the voltage to hit. Well I checked my car this morning stone cold and it was 4.14 so I figured lets shoot for 4.2. OMG! This has been the most grueling, tiresome pursuit I have done in a long long time!. Oh I could hit 4.31 or 4.11 ALL DAY LONG but anytime I got close to 4.2. I move the waste gate back and forth one cycle to make sure it was still good and it would be way off and not to mention when you try to turn those lock nuts down it might turn the shaft ever so slightly and be off again.
After several hours I finally got it to hit 4.22 and I'm sticking with that.
nah, we're still here my man. I've got mine set to 4.25 and it seems to be operating just fine. 4.22 ought to be good - i'd imagine that there is a small voltage tolerance for this that the ECU looks at - so people who freak out at a 10th of a volt are really just wasting their time IMO.
I wish someone would come out with a waste gate conversion for this car - I've had to adjust mine three times over the past 12 months.
nah, we're still here my man. I've got mine set to 4.25 and it seems to be operating just fine. 4.22 ought to be good - i'd imagine that there is a small voltage tolerance for this that the ECU looks at - so people who freak out at a 10th of a volt are really just wasting their time IMO.
I wish someone would come out with a waste gate conversion for this car - I've had to adjust mine three times over the past 12 months.
Thanks for the confirmation Asher!. I got to drive it a good bit tonight and it does feel a somewhat different I think. Before @ 4.59 volts there was this sorta like non boosted feeling down low and as you rolled easy on the throttle it would slowly get a bit faster and faster and then click. WOOSH!. like you pressed a button. ALso the pull didn't always feel that strong. Like the acceleration was surging a bit. All of that is gone now. It still has a bit of a low area down low that feels like you could actually leave a stop and stay out of boost no problem but if you roll into the throttle the power seems to blend in very nicely to full throttle and the pull just builds and builds and doesn't seem to surge. Perhaps surge is probably not the best word to describe it. Maybe more like it just wasn't full power in a sense before.