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2011 Kia Optima
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218 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So if your like me and would rather die fixing your car than taking it back to the dealer, only to have them fail at another simple task. Then here is the fix for the turbo charger "loss of power/ restart the car everything is fine" problem everyone is bringing in their car for. I started experiencing the problem around 9,000 miles and read over the entire TSB about how they adjust the wastegate to 4.2V to make it shut sooner. But I dont have a OBD scanner or software to read the voltage on the waste gate. I do however have 10 years electronics troubleshooting experience and knew that it was reading a feedback position voltage that was coming from the electronic motor that controls the waste gate. The problem was which wire was it? Well after doing some slick piggybacking on each wire with the connector plugged it I have the answer. If you look at the connector you take off of the motor it is the yellow wire on the connector. If you piggyback off that wire while the connector is plugged in and the car is on (engine not started but radio and everything on)you will see a voltage of around 4-4.7 VDC using the battery ground as ground. As you move the waste gate rod by hand to the left (passenger side) you'll see it decrease toward 0VDC. What you want to do is pull it all the way to the right (driver side) and read the voltage. mine was actually at 4.6 VDC! So if its above 4.3 VDC you have to shorten the rod. Take the bolt off the top of the rear cover on the turbo to make room so you can move it as you need. Take the clip off of the turbo charger side (BE CAREFUL NOT TO LOSE IT!) it is a C clip with a small loop u can hook something around to pull it up and off. And there is a small washer on the other side of rod so take care not to lose that too when you take the rod off. The motor actuator side is a small locknut that i believe is 10mm. you take that nut off and the whole bar should come right off. Loosen a locknut on whichever side shows the most threads and turn it clockwise if its above 4.3VDC (making the bar shorter) and counter clockwise if its below 4.1VDC(making the bar longer). Then make a turn or two adjustment and without locking the nuts down yet put the bar back on the wastegate connection and motor connection and once again push the rod by hand all the way to the right (driver side) repeat this process until your meter reads 4.2VDC (+/- .1VDC) with you pushing the electronic wastegate actuator all the way to the right. once you achieve this lock down the locknuts on the rod and reinstall the rod reverse of removal (IMPORTANT TIP!!!!! tie a small piece of string around the small loop on the C clip when you go to put it back on as if you drop it you will spend 2 hrs like i did looking for it in your engine!!!!!) I hope this helps. I just did it to my car and shes a COMPLETELY different beast as if your voltage was over 4.3VDC it wasnt putting as much closing force on the wastegate as it should, letting exhaust gas slide on by. I would like to take it back to the dealership but after they put 5w-20 in my car when EVEN THE CAP says 5w-30 i have less than no faith in them anymore...
 

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2012 Kia Optima
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36 Posts
My dealer had my car from 9am-2:30PM trying to fix this one issue( and a simple oil change. They wanted to put in 5W-20 bc the service writer did not know EX-Turbos existed.) It was reading 4.8V. When i left at 2:45PM my voltage was 4.8V. The mechanic claimed that he was unable to make the change bc the temp of the ambient air was to hot. I call bullshit. How can ambient air affect voltage. Needless to say i will be tackling this repair myself. Thanks for the write up.
 

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Premium Member
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382 Posts
Syn,

Amazing DIY. I appreciate your writeup, particularly with wiring investigation to find the correct point to read this voltage. Your description seems quite accurate and thorough, and the caution comments are really valuable. The combination of this DIY and ultracow's lubrication suggestion go a long way to solving this problem.
 

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Yeah your all welcome. Should just kept it to myself if I was gonna get this much flack over it. What the **** did you guys do to help try to fix this problem? Oh yeah, nothing...If it's useless how is the next person who tries this and makes video gonna do it? By using the information I took the time to find for you. Sorry its not a picture book . I woulda been **** grateful for any information I could find on how to fix this problem myself...because of me now there is. You post a useful DIY thread, then talk...
Who are you roiding out on? Lol
I see nothing but positive replies :)

Great write up btw


Sent from my JB iPh4S v5.1.1
 

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2011 Kia Optima
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218 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I haven't had a problem like this yet, but I am curious to see if mine reads 4.3 or what.
Also... :nopics:
Its VERY useful pics or not. You can't get a camera here you need to see at. the connecting points for the bar face the firewall. You need a mirror to see the clip.

My dealer had my car from 9am-2:30PM trying to fix this one issue( and a simple oil change. They wanted to put in 5W-20 bc the service writer did not know EX-Turbos existed.) It was reading 4.8V. When i left at 2:45PM my voltage was 4.8V. The mechanic claimed that he was unable to make the change bc the temp of the ambient air was to hot. I call bullshit. How can ambient air affect voltage. Needless to say i will be tackling this repair myself. Thanks for the write up.
This is EXACTLY why i usually try to avoid the dealer at all costs! That voltage has NOTHING to do with air temperature. There is a variable resistive device in the motor that changes that voltage going to the yellow wire as the motor moves. The computer then reads the voltage to determine what the position the waste gate is in. around being 0 is completely open and 4.2 being completely closed. Temperature effects this in no way as it measures movement of the waste gate actuator only. I hate incompetent mechanics, but what i hate more is someone who feeds some bullshit to someone because they themselves dont know whats wrong.. Just say i dont know!
 

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2011 Optima SX
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2,429 Posts
I have never seen someone get so butthurt over an emot. Wow, hostile much?
Why would you assume that I think this is useless? This is great information. People should know how to fix their own problems with their own car. I also hate taking my car to the dealership.
Pictures always speak louder then words.
I will eventually get my volt meter out and test my own.
 

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2011 Kia Optima
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218 Posts
I have never seen someone get so butthurt over an emot. Wow, hostile much?
Why would you assume that I think this is useless? This is great information. People should know how to fix their own problems with their own car. I also hate taking my car to the dealership.
Pictures always speak louder then words.
I will eventually get my volt meter out and test my own.
spoken like a true child...love the member ignore setting
 

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06/2012 ROTM
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1,211 Posts
Syn, I think NiMrod just wanted pictures to make sure that he does it correctly when the time comes and the pics would help other memebers as well...as I wanted a VID...(I think you just took it the wrong way) :)

We all found your post enlightening...When the time comes, I'll be doing this myself also, Thanks!
 

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All credit to Syn! His instructions were very easy to understand and follow. But I figured since I was there, I would snap a few pictures as I checked my voltage:

First, here's a wide angle shot of the motor Syn is refering to, so you can kind of get your bearings. This is with me standing near the drivers front tire looking into the engine bay






Now, to clear up what motor Syn is talking about, here is a closer shot. The motor should be the focal point.




Next I uncoupled the plug on the top of the motor (as seen in the picture above) by pushing it towards the front of the car. Then I carefully pushed a thin sewing needle down along the yellow wire into the back of the plug. Then I plugged the plug back in, hooked one end of an alligator clip extension to the needle and the other to my positive multimeter probe. Then negative went to the car battery. I leaned in the window, hit my start button twice and voltage started being read. I pushed the rod towards the passenger side (0.51v) and then towards the drivers side. My reading was 4.07v. I leaned in and turned the car off. Then I took just the motor end of the rod off and twisted the rod out half a turn. I remeasured and the reading was 4.27 volts, so that was where I left it. Better to be barely in spec than barely out I reasoned.







I did not loosen the turbo half of the rod at all. I found it was plenty easy to loosen just the motor connection and blindly adjust. BE CAREFUL. As said by Syn, after the locknut on the motor end of the shaft is the rod itself, then a washer/seat piece and a spring. I managed to lose my spring doing this because while I thought I was being careful, I wasn't careful enough apparently. I also dropped a 10mm wrench down there somewhere. :angry: I guess I'll be pulling the motor shield off this weekend in hopes of finding both items.


Heat shield mentioned in the OP (the left one of the two):

 
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