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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Yesterday I replaced the factory dash speakers with a pair of Boston Acoustics S35 speakers. A lot of people told me that the speakers won't fit easily but I came up with a few tweaks that worked. The stock speakers were 2.75inch and the replacement speakers were 3.5inch. The dash has a lot of depth room, you can fit even a large crossover easily for the people who want to do components. It took me one hour from start to end,

You need the following:

1. A hot glue gun
2. L shaped philips screw driver.
3. No scratch removing tools:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LNBLTK/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details
4. Bass blockers 600 or 800Hz (I made my own and I'll show you how) : Bass Blockers (150 Hz cut-off) Pairs at Crutchfield.com
5. Pliers
6. Masking tape
7. Soldering iron
9- Metal File

First step, is to use the no scratch removal tool to remove the speaker grill. This requires a bit of force to pull it out and don't worry nothings going to break, just do it as hard as you can.



Here's when it came out.



This is the stock speakers. There are two screws, the one at the front is easy but you need an L shaped driver for the one in the back.



L shaped driver



In this pic, you can see that I lifted the speakers with one hand and can see the white harness. I placed an arrow where you should be able to press and pull to disconnect.



Here you can see the opening after I've removed the stock speakers. Also you can see how deep it is. You can easily fit a crossover or a bottle of water for a rainy day.



In this pic you can see I've placed both speakers next to each other. The one on the left is the Boston Acoustics, the other is the stock.



Here you can see I've removed the top of the Boston Acoustics speaker, this makes for an easier installation. The way to remove it is to pull it from the sides, slowly until it comes off. The two screws you see on its sides are fake, there was just glue there.




In this photo I'm showing the Boston Acoustics on the right, compared to the stock on the left. You can see how big the size of the magnet is.




Next, remove the white harness from the stock speaker. You can see a small 10uf capacitor and this is to let through the high frequencies only. If you're going to use this 10uf capacitor with the Boston Acoustics you're going to lose the low and the mid range frequencies. When I used the 10uf capacitor the sound was very thin and I didn't like it. So I tried to use a speaker without any filters. It did sound really good but when you put the volume on the stock head unit half way (no amp), the sound from the speakers get distorted from the bass. This speaker is not designed for bass, just for mid and high frequencies. So the best way is to use a bass blocker, 600hz or 800hz will do it. In my case, I didn't expect this to happen, so I came up with my own filter using a 100uf capacitor and this will cut off the 400hz so you only get the mid and the high clearly without any distortions. You can reference to this chart:

200 mF = 200 Hz

100 mF = 400 Hz

50 mF = 800 Hz
25 mF = 1600 Hz
12 mF = 3300 Hz
6 mF = 6500

Speaker Size Cut-off Frequency

6-1/2", 5"x7"/6"x8"
— 150 Hz
5", 5-1/4" — 300 Hz
3-1/2", 4", 4"x6" — 600 Hz (low power)
3-1/2", 4", 4"x6" — 800 Hz (high power)




I found a bad power supply laying around so I took it apart and removed the 100uf capacitor and I tested it to make sure its working.




These are the two speakers with 100uf capacitors attached.




So you can just copy the stock speakers wiring with the capacitor, and the way it should be done is that the speaker negative should attach to the the black wire from the harness directly. The other color (in this case yellow), should attach to the positive side in the capacitor. And the negative in the capacitor should attach to the speaker positive.




Here I'm connecting the speaker to the dash harness and making sure everything's working fine.




The speaker comes with two screw mountings on each side which are too big to mount the speakers in this case and I had to cut them off with pliers. Afterwards, I used the glue gun to secure the speaker. I know its not the best gluing job but it did the trick.



This is what it looks like outside the windshield.




This is after I'm done and placed the grill on top to see if it closes perfectly. As you can see, it does.








Let me know if you have any questions or issues that I can clear up for you.
 

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Nice write up iTQAN. This will definitely come in handy if anyone feels the need to replace these speakers. Thanks for posting.
 

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Thanks for posting this. You never mentioned how it sounded. Also, why not stay with a 10 uf cap like the stock?
^+1
 

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Thanks for posting this. You never mentioned how it sounded. Also, why not stay with a 10 uf cap like the stock?
It seems to me as if the replacement Boston Speakers would have a much greater range than the craptory speakers and would be somewhat crippled by the 10uf cap. Changing the cap opened up a little more mid/bass range that the replacement speaker would be capable of producing more clearly.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for posting this. You never mentioned how it sounded. Also, why not stay with a 10 uf cap like the stock?
There is little improvement on the high range and big improvement as far as mid ranges go. Overall, I can say there is very good stage sound improvement. You can use the 10uf cap but you're not going to get the mid range, as I mentioned, its going to sound very thin. So I recommended 100uf cap to get the mid and the high.
 

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Great write up! Are these speakers from the Infinity system, or non-Infinity?

Also, not sure how much difference it would make, but have you considered completely sealing the area around the speaker with glue so you don't get any frequency cancellation?

Tony
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Great write up! Are these speakers from the Infinity system, or non-Infinity?

Also, not sure how much difference it would make, but have you considered completely sealing the area around the speaker with glue so you don't get any frequency cancellation?

Tony
Yes that was for non-infinity.

I was surprised when I found no sealing for the stock speakers. I'm not sure sealing the whole area would improve the audio quality, but i'll give it a try.
 

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Thanks for this post, really helped me get the dash speakers out quickly.

I am going with Components, Tweeters in dash ( Non Infinity Upgrade ), and Mid Bass in front doors with Crossovers- Polk Audio 6501 and Biaxial in rear doors, Mid Bass with built in Tweeter in middle of speaker, Polk Audio 651s. I want the rear passengers to have some good balanced sound. Small DClass amp going to be running the door and dash speakers. Got the Polks on Amazon for an amazing price and quick ship.

Also going to be putting a 12" Sony Sub in box in trunk using DClass 300 watt amp - package from Crutchfield was on sale for $199 and free shipping, normally $500! Being discontinued by Sony, but will rock the Casbah for sure. Will let you know when done.

For now, thought this thread would benefit from my picture of how I mounted the Polk Tweeter in the actual old dash speaker. I trimmed a hole in the dust screen on the front of the speaker, tore off the bracket on the back of the speaker using a screw driver to pry up, it is glued to the magnet. Cut a hole in the actual paper cone to run the wire through. Then used Clear Caulk, outdoor unpaintable 3M, to glue in the high. Then I can easily screw into place since I have the main bracket in tact.
IMAG0429.jpg
 

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Thanks for this post, really helped me get the dash speakers out quickly.

I am going with Components, Tweeters in dash ( Non Infinity Upgrade ), and Mid Bass in front doors with Crossovers- Polk Audio 6501 and Biaxial in rear doors, Mid Bass with built in Tweeter in middle of speaker, Polk Audio 651s. I want the rear passengers to have some good balanced sound. Small DClass amp going to be running the door and dash speakers. Got the Polks on Amazon for an amazing price and quick ship.

Also going to be putting a 12" Sony Sub in box in trunk using DClass 300 watt amp - package from Crutchfield was on sale for $199 and free shipping, normally $500! Being discontinued by Sony, but will rock the Casbah for sure. Will let you know when done.

For now, thought this thread would benefit from my picture of how I mounted the Polk Tweeter in the actual old dash speaker. I trimmed a hole in the dust screen on the front of the speaker, tore off the bracket on the back of the speaker using a screw driver to pry up, it is glued to the magnet. Cut a hole in the actual paper cone to run the wire through. Then used Clear Caulk, outdoor unpaintable 3M, to glue in the high. Then I can easily screw into place since I have the main bracket in tact.
View attachment 13692
looks pretty clean.

I wish there was some universal mount for 3.5in speakers for the dash for our car.

I've replaced all of the stock (non-infinity) door speakers with polk audio db651 already.
 

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My personal $.02? those are UGLY. i much prefer good sound, without advertising what's in there. even going so far as camouflaging the speaker grill for the rear with a larger than needed grill to match interior and not lend itself to the thought or notion that anything is on the back deck that should not be there. I even toyed with using a design i made a long time ago for a single 8 in a bandpass single 4" port and passing that port into the cabin with a very much smaller than the infinity grill to hide what is going on. a great sounding fully stealth install is in my future...i just have to get the wife to sign the checks to the stereo shop/crutchfield/amazon. i'm still in the phase of auditioning the high end to find something I really like for the price i'm willing to pay. I may end up with a larger than necessary planar ribbon for the front end, a small center channel array and a good set of 6" midbasses for rear doors and i'm still stuck on what i want for the front doors. I may end up with a coax to give a brighter more forward facing soundstage as long as i can find some non harsh, warm tweets in the coax.
 

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Centre channel array..hmm what about channel separation? A car is imho a far too small a space for a centre channel. To each thier own. BTW Plannars can be very hard to aim given their often narrow dispersement pattern
 

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I did the install...great write up by the way, however I encountered a problem. My dash speaker actually had 4 wires. A yellow and a brown (or dark purple) on top connection and a green and a black.all wires had 6.6 volts coming in from the dash harness I thought ok ill just take the leads going to the opposite post slice them together an wire them to my Polk DXI351speakers. I didn't use the capacitor at first because these speaker came with one mounted already.I soldered them to the factory connector. Then tried them out. They sounded bad so I removed the DXI capacitor and wired in a 100 uf I got from radio shack. I tested them again and they sounded great. Turned the volume to 20 on the factory Navi...still sounded great. So last night I mounted an glued them in place.install complete. Today my right side 3.5 and component Dxi 6500 are crackling..mainly the polk 6.5. Im wondering if I wired something up wrong because the left side plays great. Im thinking the issue might be that the impeadence on the two speakers wired in series(l think). The factory set up was a two 2 ohm speakers wired for 4 ohm resistance. I think I might have accidently wired the 4 ohms in parallel creating a 2 ohm resistance. Im not sure if the speakers are blown but need some help with the wiring on a 2011 optima dash speaker 4 wire connection so I dont make the same mistake again if I get some new ones. This is also a thoughtful warning to those that have the 4 wire dash set up like mine....I know this was alot to type.. especially on a phone but im at work and have been thinking about the problem all day. please help. Thanks..... Alboogie.
 

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Turns out I did install these correctly My 6.5 speaker is blown because I thought I try to cut cost purchase them used....Never again.
 

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thank you

Thanks for this post, really helped me get the dash speakers out quickly.

I am going with Components, Tweeters in dash ( Non Infinity Upgrade ), and Mid Bass in front doors with Crossovers- Polk Audio 6501 and Biaxial in rear doors, Mid Bass with built in Tweeter in middle of speaker, Polk Audio 651s. I want the rear passengers to have some good balanced sound. Small DClass amp going to be running the door and dash speakers. Got the Polks on Amazon for an amazing price and quick ship.

Also going to be putting a 12" Sony Sub in box in trunk using DClass 300 watt amp - package from Crutchfield was on sale for $199 and free shipping, normally $500! Being discontinued by Sony, but will rock the Casbah for sure. Will let you know when done.

For now, thought this thread would benefit from my picture of how I mounted the Polk Tweeter in the actual old dash speaker. I trimmed a hole in the dust screen on the front of the speaker, tore off the bracket on the back of the speaker using a screw driver to pry up, it is glued to the magnet. Cut a hole in the actual paper cone to run the wire through. Then used Clear Caulk, outdoor unpaintable 3M, to glue in the high. Then I can easily screw into place since I have the main bracket in tact.
View attachment 13692
 

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In this photo I'm showing the Boston Acoustics on the right, compared to the stock on the left. You can see how big the size of the magnet is.
Not taking away from the fact that the stock drivers are most likely weaker than the BA unit you're replacing it with, but you can't judge a magnet based solely on size anymore. The magnet on the stocker is most likely a neodymium magnet and is far more powerful by weight than the type of magnet used on the Boston Acoustic driver.Again, just want to make sure that readers know that size isn't everything when it comes to the magnets used in speaker designs, you have to look at the actual spec sheets to find out. ;)
 
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