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2012 Kia Optima SX-T
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I understand what you're saying but that didn't answer the question.

Let's try it this way. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm assuming the KIA Oil Viscosity recommendation charts aren't any different from previous years compared to this 2015 KIA Manual. I don't see 0W-30 anywhere on the chart below. If you inform others that - Although it isn't recommended by KIA, IMO, I believe using the 0W-30 is a good choice. However, this could possibly raise warranty issues should your engine blow and you show proof (receipt) of changing your oil with 0W-30 which is NOT recommended. Disclaimers should always follow opinions in these kind of situations. This gives the previous poster (K5op) knowledge that they may need to think carefully about using something outside of what a Manufacturers Manual states.

Actually, they are different due to the recent TSB that KIA published in Sept. 2015, at least for the Turbo engines.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_UDQbyqw8jsTUVmb3BXM3lKajA/view

I can't read the small print of the image you showed so I would suggest everybody just open the google doc (and save it to your own HD for future reference). In it, the TSB states the two viscosity/grade oils for the 2.0T engine is 5W-30 and 5W-40 while the 2.4L is 5W-20, 5W-30 and 10W-30. The common grade between both the 2.4L and 2.0T is the 5W-30 oil.

You are correct in that they state that these are the viscosity/grade oils to use.
 

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2016 KIA Sorento
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89 Posts
The bottom line is that you are using a viscosity that is not recommended by the manufacturer for your application and it's your car and warranty at risk.

You should have provided that caveat in your initial post.

Actually, they are different due to the recent TSB that KIA published in Sept. 2015, at least for the Turbo engines.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_UDQbyqw8jsTUVmb3BXM3lKajA/view

I can't read the small print of the image you showed so I would suggest everybody just open the google doc (and save it to your own HD for future reference). In it, the TSB states the two viscosity/grade oils for the 2.0T engine is 5W-30 and 5W-40 while the 2.4L is 5W-20, 5W-30 and 10W-30. The common grade between both the 2.4L and 2.0T is the 5W-30 oil.

You are correct in that they state that these are the viscosity/grade oils to use.
 

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Premium Member
2012 Kia Optima SX-T
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The bottom line is that you are using a viscosity that is not recommended by the manufacturer for your application and it's your car and warranty at risk.

You should have provided that caveat in your initial post.
Duly noted.
 

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2013 Kia K5 Optima
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12 Posts
Thanks for the replies everyone! Yeah, I'd like to remain using oil that meets the warranty specs. I did receive that letter that extended the warranty on the engine (something about undersized oil passage ways in the bottom end causing premature failure).

Hmm, now I'm questioning whether I should use one of the better synthetic oils (little pricier), and possibly have the car survive past the warranty, but then risk it dying not long after?
or if I should just use lower quality (still meeting specs though) oil (maybe even conventional?), saving myself a little bit of money out of pocket, and then it may blow while under warranty coverage, then I get a new engine (hopefully without the same defect), then use full synthetic. Does the new replacement/fixed engine come with a new warranty as well?
What do you think is the smarter move? (I plan on keeping this Optima for life, sentimental value)

Besides that, for the Mobil 1 oil, remaining under spec, should I get 5w-30 or 5w-20 (for fall season, west coast)?
And do I get the silver label (regular full synth) or should I get the gold label (extended performance -says protects for 15K miles-, though I would still do oil changes at the manufacture recommended intervals)? Pretty sure just the silver label, but just thought I'd ask. Walmart the cheapest place?
 

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Thanks for the replies everyone! Yeah, I'd like to remain using oil that meets the warranty specs. I did receive that letter that extended the warranty on the engine (something about undersized oil passage ways in the bottom end causing premature failure).

Hmm, now I'm questioning whether I should use one of the better synthetic oils (little pricier), and possibly have the car survive past the warranty, but then risk it dying not long after?
or if I should just use lower quality (still meeting specs though) oil (maybe even conventional?), saving myself a little bit of money out of pocket, and then it may blow while under warranty coverage, then I get a new engine (hopefully without the same defect), then use full synthetic. Does the new replacement/fixed engine come with a new warranty as well?
What do you think is the smarter move? (I plan on keeping this Optima for life, sentimental value)

Besides that, for the Mobil 1 oil, remaining under spec, should I get 5w-30 or 5w-20 (for fall season, west coast)?
And do I get the silver label (regular full synth) or should I get the gold label (extended performance -says protects for 15K miles-, though I would still do oil changes at the manufacture recommended intervals)? Pretty sure just the silver label, but just thought I'd ask. Walmart the cheapest place?
Don't bother with 5w-20

Keep using 5w-30 in case the oil sheers at least it won't drop below 20 levels
 

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2014 KIA Optima
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1,663 Posts
Thanks for the replies everyone! Yeah, I'd like to remain using oil that meets the warranty specs. I did receive that letter that extended the warranty on the engine (something about undersized oil passage ways in the bottom end causing premature failure).

Hmm, now I'm questioning whether I should use one of the better synthetic oils (little pricier), and possibly have the car survive past the warranty, but then risk it dying not long after?
or if I should just use lower quality (still meeting specs though) oil (maybe even conventional?), saving myself a little bit of money out of pocket, and then it may blow while under warranty coverage, then I get a new engine (hopefully without the same defect), then use full synthetic. Does the new replacement/fixed engine come with a new warranty as well?
What do you think is the smarter move? (I plan on keeping this Optima for life, sentimental value)

Besides that, for the Mobil 1 oil, remaining under spec, should I get 5w-30 or 5w-20 (for fall season, west coast)?
And do I get the silver label (regular full synth) or should I get the gold label (extended performance -says protects for 15K miles-, though I would still do oil changes at the manufacture recommended intervals)? Pretty sure just the silver label, but just thought I'd ask. Walmart the cheapest place?
You have a good idea by using regular oil that meets the specs and hoping that the engine issue surfaces before the warranty expires.

But I have to admit that it would a big gamble that the engine failure will happen in a specific time, no matter the type of oil used.
 

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2015 Kia Optima
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132 Posts
I've always serviced my own cars because of poor quality work by most dealerships. Two years ago, I got tired of crawling under cars and decided to let the Kia dealer do the servicing. The 5K and 10K mile service went well, but not so for the 15K. I found out the dealer used 5W-20 instead of 5W-30 that was used on the two previous services. I have a couple of tappets that are quite noisy when the engine is cold and they're not as noisy with the heavier oil. Also, I wasn't too happy about a puddle of oil on the garage floor after the servicing.

I had been thinking about switching to synthetic oil and extending the OCIs to 7.5K miles, so I bought a 5-quart jug of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30 and did the oil change. It was then that I found that the dealer had over-torqued the drain plug so much that the washer (aluminum) was deformed and had to be chiseled off the drain plug. The dealer must have used an air wrench to tighten the drain plug!

The oil change turned out to be more work than intended but I'm happy to report that the engine is noticeably quieter with the PUP 5W-30 synthetic oil. Looks like I'm back in the oil change business. (LOL)
 

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Premium Member
2012 Kia Optima SX-T
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1,436 Posts
I've always serviced my own cars because of poor quality work by most dealerships. Two years ago, I got tired of crawling under cars and decided to let the Kia dealer do the servicing. The 5K and 10K mile service went well, but not so for the 15K. I found out the dealer used 5W-20 instead of 5W-30 that was used on the two previous services. I have a couple of tappets that are quite noisy when the engine is cold and they're not as noisy with the heavier oil. Also, I wasn't too happy about a puddle of oil on the garage floor after the servicing.

I had been thinking about switching to synthetic oil and extending the OCIs to 7.5K miles, so I bought a 5-quart jug of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30 and did the oil change. It was then that I found that the dealer had over-torqued the drain plug so much that the washer (aluminum) was deformed and had to be chiseled off the drain plug. The dealer must have used an air wrench to tighten the drain plug!

The oil change turned out to be more work than intended but I'm happy to report that the engine is noticeably quieter with the PUP 5W-30 synthetic oil. Looks like I'm back in the oil change business. (LOL)
Think of it as "wrench therapy"! Doing your own oil also gives you a good chance to fully inspect what been going on down there, including your tires (even wear?), brake pads, CV boots, leaks of any kind, etc.
 

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2014 KIA Optima
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1,663 Posts
I've always serviced my own cars because of poor quality work by most dealerships. Two years ago, I got tired of crawling under cars and decided to let the Kia dealer do the servicing. The 5K and 10K mile service went well, but not so for the 15K. I found out the dealer used 5W-20 instead of 5W-30 that was used on the two previous services. I have a couple of tappets that are quite noisy when the engine is cold and they're not as noisy with the heavier oil. Also, I wasn't too happy about a puddle of oil on the garage floor after the servicing.

I had been thinking about switching to synthetic oil and extending the OCIs to 7.5K miles, so I bought a 5-quart jug of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30 and did the oil change. It was then that I found that the dealer had over-torqued the drain plug so much that the washer (aluminum) was deformed and had to be chiseled off the drain plug. The dealer must have used an air wrench to tighten the drain plug!

The oil change turned out to be more work than intended but I'm happy to report that the engine is noticeably quieter with the PUP 5W-30 synthetic oil. Looks like I'm back in the oil change business. (LOL)
Your post explains why I try to do all my own work since I have had the same issues when letting dealers do work on my cars when I did trust them to do it.

I have had fog-lights not reconnected. Service techs actually not doing a job they were supposed to and I had to bring the car back.

Broken/loose tabs when interior panel were removed.

Over-torqued drain plugs as well.

However, I have some good experience also, but it have always been hit or miss as what kind of service i will get when i let someone else work on my car.

If you want something done right, you have to do it yourself.

That saying is not true all the time, but it is correct.
 

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2012 Kia Optima
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14 Posts
I've always serviced my own cars because of poor quality work by most dealerships. Two years ago, I got tired of crawling under cars and decided to let the Kia dealer do the servicing. The 5K and 10K mile service went well, but not so for the 15K. I found out the dealer used 5W-20 instead of 5W-30 that was used on the two previous services. I have a couple of tappets that are quite noisy when the engine is cold and they're not as noisy with the heavier oil. Also, I wasn't too happy about a puddle of oil on the garage floor after the servicing.

I had been thinking about switching to synthetic oil and extending the OCIs to 7.5K miles, so I bought a 5-quart jug of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30 and did the oil change. It was then that I found that the dealer had over-torqued the drain plug so much that the washer (aluminum) was deformed and had to be chiseled off the drain plug. The dealer must have used an air wrench to tighten the drain plug!

The oil change turned out to be more work than intended but I'm happy to report that the engine is noticeably quieter with the PUP 5W-30 synthetic oil. Looks like I'm back in the oil change business. (LOL)
My wife thought I was crazy for changing the oil myself 2 days after driving it off a nice big car lot. She said there was no way the dealership would sell it with used oil, let alone with an over-torqued filter and drain plug (which they both were).

And then I ordered new NGK spark plugs, she about lost it. She assumes the car is good to go no matter what off a lot, even if it's used.
 

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2012 Kia Optima SX-T
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My wife thought I was crazy for changing the oil myself 2 days after driving it off a nice big car lot. She said there was no way the dealership would sell it with used oil, let alone with an over-torqued filter and drain plug (which they both were).

And then I ordered new NGK spark plugs, she about lost it. She assumes the car is good to go no matter what off a lot, even if it's used.
You will have to gently and kindly explain it to her. Sadly, that's the way the real world works.
 

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2014 2014 optima LX 2.4
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42 Posts
You will have to gently and kindly explain it to her. Sadly, that's the way the real world works.
My wife is abt the same, she insists oil lasts 15000 miles cuz I am using Mobil 1 extended performance. Well. I change the oil every 5000 miles...

Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk
 

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2014 Optima-Black
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1,119 Posts
I'm pretty picky about who changes my oil and most often do it myself. I recently came across a mechanic that I'll most certainly trust. She can drain your fluids before you can mutter "Uncle".

Caught a pic of her in action.


 

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2014 Optima SX Turbo
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56 Posts
Read thru a lot of the oil thread and saw the latest TSB. So from what I gather, 5w-40 full synthetic would be a good choice for someone who has a 2.0T, is sorta concerned about fuel dilution and a bit of a lead foot? I'm thinking about going with Total Quartz fwiw. And what are any thoughts about the Fumoto valve for someone living in the salt belt? I like the concept but salt gets everywhere around here. tia!
 

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Premium Member
2012 Kia Optima SX-T
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1,436 Posts
Read thru a lot of the oil thread and saw the latest TSB. So from what I gather, 5w-40 full synthetic would be a good choice for someone who has a 2.0T, is sorta concerned about fuel dilution and a bit of a lead foot? I'm thinking about going with Total Quartz fwiw. And what are any thoughts about the Fumoto valve for someone living in the salt belt? I like the concept but salt gets everywhere around here. tia!
I think the 5W-40 full synthetic would be a good idea. Keep your OCI under 5K miles (4K is good). The Fumoto valve is brass so salt shouldn't affect it. It is also up inside the protective under belly covers.
 

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2014 Optima SX Turbo
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56 Posts
I think the 5W-40 full synthetic would be a good idea. Keep your OCI under 5K miles (4K is good). The Fumoto valve is brass so salt shouldn't affect it. It is also up inside the protective under belly covers.
Yes I see your point about the Fumoto valve. I think a technician recently forgot to reinstall my cover during an oil change at a dealership. Had to order a new one. But with that cover on I could see how it might be ok. Was thinking about going with 4k or less miles like you said. Maybe I should do a Blackstone analysis at that time too? Have never done one of those ever.
 

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2013 KIA Optima
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91 Posts
Update...

So I was back and forth about doing my own oil changes. I don't trust anyone else with my cars. I definitely don't trust the dealer; however… we bought the car used. The PO info from CarMax lists it a s "fleet" vehicle. So lord only knows what "they" did. So my best idea was to build a relationship with the dealer. So to make sure we are covered in the in the extended engine coverage… I opted to buy my own oil and take the car to the dealer for the changes. They see the oil and know its getting done regularly with their filters. Worth it for the piece of mind that if my block goes plewey, at least I did my part while I owned it. I also take a cell picture of the gas receipt in front of the OD every time I fill up. Idea is to prove I only use top tier gas. The cell phone stamps the date for me & helps me log things with a point in time capture.

ON a side note, I asked the dealer what they had available oil changes. I wanted to test if they would use the correct weight on the Turbo cars. I got the 5w20 answer. I said no go, wrong oil per manual. Asked what they had in synthetic. They had nothing in stock for the 5w40. When they did stock it was near $60 just for the oil. They would not use 5w40 heavy duty diesel versions. I asked ok if you won't use that then what about the 0w40 versions. They fall between the 5w30 & 40, so technically allowed and meets the specs. Nope. Won't do it. Tech said go get the 5w30 synthetic and they would use it. Mentioned shear and asked how much sooner did I need to change it? They looked at me like I had 6 eyes. So I brought in the 5w30 just to get synthetic in versus "who knows what" it had when we bought it. Asked for the bottle back (proof they used it and not the house brand). I then take the same 5w30 oil bottle and refill it with what I want to use. Just tell them I got a large 2 gallon version and prefer to just bring in the smaller. No one seems to care when doing it that way.

Used the Shell 5w40 in the summer and used the 0w40 the last time since it was getting cold. Now I'm debating about what to go with this next change since its warming up. I worry the 0w40 is not as good of a weight in the summer? But with the shell T6, I have been reading more and have seen the concerns over the possible cat issues due to the diesel additives… Hmmm…


 

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2014 KIA Optima
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1,663 Posts
So I was back and forth about doing my own oil changes. I don't trust anyone else with my cars.I definitely don't trust the dealer; however… we bought the car used.The PO info from CarMax lists it a s "fleet" vehicle.So lord only knows what "they" did.So my best idea was to build a relationship with the dealer.So to make sure we are covered in the in the extended engine coverage… I opted to buy my own oil and take the car to the dealer for the changes.They see the oil and know its getting done regularly with their filters.Worth it for the piece of mind that if my block goes plewey, at least I did my part while I owned it.I also take a cell picture of the gas receipt in front of the OD every time I fill up.Idea is to prove I only use top tier gas.The cell phone stamps the date for me & helps me log things with a point in time capture.

ON a side note, I asked the dealer what they had available oil changes. I wanted to test if they would use the correct weight on the Turbo cars.I got the 5w20 answer.I said no go, wrong oil per manual.Asked what they had in synthetic.They had nothing in stock for the 5w40.When they did stock it was near $60 just for the oil.They would not use 5w40 heavy duty diesel versions.I asked ok if you won't use that then what about the 0w40 versions.They fall between the 5w30 & 40, so technically allowed and meets the specs.Nope.Won't do it.Tech said go get the 5w30 synthetic and they would use it.Mentioned shear and asked how much sooner did I need to change it?They looked at me like I had 6 eyes.So I brought in the 5w30 just to get synthetic in versus "who knows what" it had when we bought it.Asked for the bottle back (proof they used it and not the house brand).I then take the same 5w30 oil bottle and refill it with what I want to use.Just tell them I got a large 2 gallon version and prefer to just bring in the smaller.No one seems to care when doing it that way.

Used the Shell 5w40 in the summer and used the 0w40 the last time since it was getting cold. Now I'm debating about what to go with this next change since its warming up.I worry the 0w40 is not as good of a weight in the summer?But with the shell T6, I have been reading more and have seen the concerns over the possible cat issues due to the diesel additives… Hmmm…
Shell Rotella T6 is a good oil, but it is really a true diesel oil.

It is suppose to have a high amount of ZDDP which is bad for modern catalytic converters after long term use.

I used to use it all the time in my older Nissan V6 and V8 engines.

T6 is suppose to have a very high resistance to shearing per some bearing wear tests I read about years ago.

If under warranty I would not use T6, but outside of the warranty I may use it if my engine do not burn oil since it would kill the catalytic converter for sure from oil deposits full of ZDDP.

If an engine do not burn oil, then it may not even affect the catalytic converter any more than any other oil.
 

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2015 Kia 2015 Optima SX-T
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Shell Rotella T6 is a good oil, but it is really a true diesel oil.

It is suppose to have a high amount of ZDDP which is bad for modern catalytic converters after long term use.

I used to use it all the time in my older Nissan V6 and V8 engines.

T6 is suppose to have a very high resistance to shearing per some bearing wear tests I read about years ago.

If under warranty I would not use T6, but outside of the warranty I may use it if my engine do not burn oil since it would kill the catalytic converter for sure from oil deposits full of ZDDP.

If an engine do not burn oil, then it may not even affect the catalytic converter any more than any other oil.
I used Shell Rotella in both my WRX's. It is a great oil choice for a catless turbo car. If you're running a cat, you'd be better off with another synthetic.

Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk
 

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The difference in ZDDP is very small and just enough to appease the EPA. If it doesn't burn oil the cats are fine.
Let's not start the whole show over again...
 
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