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2014 Kia Optima SX 2.0L turbo
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So my 2014 SX turbo was left outside for 2 weeks in - 25C to - 45C while I was working. When I went to start it when my work trip was done I put the fully charged battery back in that had been sitting in my warm room. Car starts, I drive it to check out, leave it running, and I come out and it's off and completely dead. I'm able to jump it from another vehicle and I get it home.

A day later I go grocery shopping and the car seems to go into limp mode without a CEL. I foolishly decide to continue shopping and park the car. When I come back out my car is completely dead again. I try to get a jump from a stranger, the car turns over but won't start. No codes. End up having to tow it home. Next day I put a new battery in. Starts up just fine, I drive it around with no issues or codes on the torque app. Park back at the house, and it starts idling wierd. I put it in drive and it dies. Turns over but won't start again. Then I hear a whiney grinding sort of noise when I turn accessories on, coming from the engine bay. I figure it's the hpfp but the sound is coming from the lower front of the engine.

I've searched forums like crazy but haven't found anything that seems to help. Any suggestions? I need to drive to another city on Wednesday to fly out for work again and I need my vehicle to get there. Thank you!

Here's a link to a video of the noise coming from the engine bay


EDIT
The issue has been found and solved! Details below!
 

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2014 Kia Optima SX 2.0L turbo
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Also I should mention the alternator is working according to a voltage test
 

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2012 Black SX Prem. & Tech.
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2,180 Posts
is it possible your car is killing the battery?

Can you confirm that the new replacement battery is now dead?
 

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2013 Kia Optima
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171 Posts
So my 2014 SX turbo was left outside for 2 weeks in - 25C to - 45C while I was working. When I went to start it when my work trip was done I put the fully charged battery back in that had been sitting in my warm room. Car starts, I drive it to check out, leave it running, and I come out and it's off and completely dead. I'm able to jump it from another vehicle and I get it home.

A day later I go grocery shopping and the car seems to go into limp mode without a CEL. I foolishly decide to continue shopping and park the car. When I come back out my car is completely dead again. I try to get a jump from a stranger, the car turns over but won't start. No codes. End up having to tow it home. Next day I put a new battery in. Starts up just fine, I drive it around with no issues or codes on the torque app. Park back at the house, and it starts idling wierd. I put it in drive and it dies. Turns over but won't start again. Then I hear a whiney grinding sort of noise when I turn accessories on, coming from the engine bay. I figure it's the hpfp but the sound is coming from the lower front of the engine.

I've searched forums like crazy but haven't found anything that seems to help. Any suggestions? I need to drive to another city on Wednesday to fly out for work again and I need my vehicle to get there. Thank you!

Here's a link to a video of the noise coming from the engine bay

Is the sound coming from the throttle body?
 

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2011 Kia Optima
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Noise-Vacuum pump?
But that wouldn't stop it from starting, especially if you say the battery is fully charged and alternator supplying correct voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Noise-Vacuum pump?
But that wouldn't stop it from starting, especially if you say the battery is fully charged and alternator supplying correct voltage.
The old battery was toast after the cold snap, plus I believe it was actually the factory one. Would no longer hold a charge. The new battery is still supplying power to the car no problem. I'll check out a service manual to see where the vacuum pump and throttle body are located and try to replicate the problem. It seems to start fine after sitting for awhile and cooling down. -20°C where I am now. Issues seem to arise after driving around for awhile
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Is the sound coming from the throttle body?
After checking after a few throttle body cleaning videos there is good chance the sound was coming from there. That's very close to the location I thought the sound was coming from. Plus a stuck TB would explain a no start condition and how it would sometimes start for a second and then die immediately after. I'm going to open it and see it there's carbon buildup and clean it out. I'm be sure to check back when that's done with my findings!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
After checking after a few throttle body cleaning videos there is good chance the sound was coming from there. That's very close to the location I thought the sound was coming from. Plus a stuck TB would explain a no start condition and how it would sometimes start for a second and then die immediately after. I'm going to open it and see it there's carbon buildup and clean it out. I'm be sure to check back when that's done with my findings!
It's so cold outside that everything in the bay is completely stiff and doesn't want to move at all. I've gotten to the throttle body but can't get the hose off, but it's getting late here and dark anyways and I don't want to put my car through a very cold start just so a few hoses warm up. So I'm going to go back at tomorrow when it's warmer and get that hose off and see the condition of the TB
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Throttle body was decent but I cleaned it up. There was ice build up in the bottom of the intercooler. I melted and drained it and put everything back together but the problem is still there. I was able to start the car but after about 5 mins it died. Really seems like a fuel issue. But still don't know and I'm supposed to catch a flight in another city tomorrow morning :(
 

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Throttle body was decent but I cleaned it up. There was ice build up in the bottom of the intercooler. I melted and drained it and put everything back together but the problem is still there. I was able to start the car but after about 5 mins it died. Really seems like a fuel issue. But still don't know and I'm supposed to catch a flight in another city tomorrow morning :(
You could try disconnecting the boost sensor on the intercooler pipe and see if it will run longer but you won't have much power at all and of course it will trip cel with the boost sensor code.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Little update:
I found out the in tank fuel pump was not working. I disconnected the fuel hose, put a bottle over the outlet and primed the engine. No fuel came out. And no sound from the pump. I tried to start the car and had the same results. I confirmed the pump is receiving 12 volts of power, so now I know the issue is with the pump motor. I'm going to see if I can fix myself and perhaps find what caused the failure (clogged filter?) this also explains the odd noise coming from the HPFP, as it was essentially running dry, creating just enough vacuum to pull a small amount of fuel from the tank by itself allowing the car to partially start.

I'm going to try to find a replacement online as the dealer wants 700 bucks for a whole new assembly o_O maybe I'll be able to replace just the motor if the rest looks good. Will update later on!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You could try disconnecting the boost sensor on the intercooler pipe and see if it will run longer but you won't have much power at all and of course it will trip cel with the boost sensor code.
If replacing the fuel pump doesn't work I will try this! Also I drained all the fluid from the intercooler and melted the ice inside the system by sticking a hair dryer down the pipe from the TB. I drilled a small hole recommended by my mechanic friend in the bottom of the intercooler tank to allow the unwanted fluid to escape. There was a LOT of fluid. Then put a small screw back in the hole to seal it. It didn't fix my problem of course but I think my engine will be happier when it's running again
 

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Little update:
I found out the in tank fuel pump was not working. I disconnected the fuel hose, put a bottle over the outlet and primed the engine. No fuel came out. And no sound from the pump. I tried to start the car and had the same results. I confirmed the pump is receiving 12 volts of power, so now I know the issue is with the pump motor. I'm going to see if I can fix myself and perhaps find what caused the failure (clogged filter?) this also explains the odd noise coming from the HPFP, as it was essentially running dry, creating just enough vacuum to pull a small amount of fuel from the tank by itself allowing the car to partially start.

I'm going to try to find a replacement online as the dealer wants 700 bucks for a whole new assembly o_O maybe I'll be able to replace just the motor if the rest looks good. Will update later on!
just don't put anything made in china on your car. you will regret it and do it all over again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I removed the motor from the pump assembly and connected it directly to the battery and nothing happened so I know the motor is bad.

Does anyone know if I'm able to buy just the motor for the fuel pump and not the entire assembly? Seems like a waste to buy the whole thing
 

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I removed the motor from the pump assembly and connected it directly to the battery and nothing happened so I know the motor is bad.

Does anyone know if I'm able to buy just the motor for the fuel pump and not the entire assembly? Seems like a waste to buy the whole thing
never seen just the motor part sold just like a starter solenoid was the only thing to go bad but can't just get that anymore and have to replace the whole thing. obviously change the in tank filter while you're there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
never seen just the motor part sold just like a starter solenoid was the only thing to go bad but can't just get that anymore and have to replace the whole thing. obviously change the in tank filter while you're there.
The in tank filter and prestrainer were in still in great condition so I'll leave those for now. And yes surprisingly I was able to order only the pump without the entire assembly which saved me over $400. If something in the old assembly fails and I get bit in the ass then I'll update this thread, but until then fingers crossed my car will be running tomorrow! I'll post the results here. Thank you all for your help! 😁
 

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The in tank filter and prestrainer were in still in great condition so I'll leave those for now. And yes surprisingly I was able to order only the pump without the entire assembly which saved me over $400. If something in the old assembly fails and I get bit in the ass then I'll update this thread, but until then fingers crossed my car will be running tomorrow! I'll post the results here. Thank you all for your help! 😁
What brand makes just the pump motor and not the assembly? factory kia?
 

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Excellent work on the path to repair so far, hopefully your troubleshooting will end with the replacement motor.

Any other tips or trick you used, when accessing and removing the fuel pump? Anything unusual, like how did you access it, by taking out the rear seats?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Excellent work on the path to repair so far, hopefully your troubleshooting will end with the replacement motor.

Any other tips or trick you used, when accessing and removing the fuel pump? Anything unusual, like how did you access it, by taking out the rear seats?
Thank you! First of all I recommend to everyone who does this to clean the area around the pump before taking it out. There was quite a lot of dirt around mine and you obviously don't want that going into the tank or pump itself.

I used Kiopman to do the job, with was extremely useful. After taking the trunk cover off I simply folded down the passenger side rear seat and was able to access the pump assembly quite easily through the rear passenger door. The assembly is fastened with a circular plate held down by about six short 8mm bolts.

Disconnect the fuel line and two electrical connectors, take the bolts out, plate comes off, and now the pump assembly is free to come out. However I found it very tricky to get the assembly out without being too rough with it. It seemed to always catch on something and it took me about 15 mins just to get the darn thing out. I don't know what I did for it to finally give but suddenly it just popped right out intact! Haha. After it was out I disassembled it by following the Kiopman guide, and it didn't give me much hassle at all. The motor and filter come out relatively easily after the clips are removed. I was told if you can blow through the filter easily then it's probably in good working order (I guess we'll find out?)

I then hooked the bare motor directly to my battery and nothing happened. So at his point I know for sure the motor is toast. If the motor was the sole problem, then my car should be running again tomorrow, assuming the parts store actually receives the new motor on time. I will of course post an update. And also pictures of the parts and process, since I forgot to take some while taking everything apart 😬
 
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