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Former Administrator
2011 K5 Turbo
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)

Replacing Worn Endlinks

Does your suspension sounds like this??




Then it might be time to change your endlinks!

You can tell your endlinks are going bad when you only hear the clunking noise on uneven surfaces, especially when turning. Flat roads and highways won't make any noise at all.

Difficulty : Easy
Time : ~1/2 Hour - 1 Hour (Depending on availability of tools and experience)

Things you'll need:

2 x floor jacks, or 1 floor jack and a jack stand
1 x breaker bar
1 x socket wrench with a short socket (19MM or 3/4")
1 x long lug nut socket (19MM or 3/4")
1 x torque wrench
1 x rubber mallet
2 x new endlinks (front left and front right)

Optional:

1 x Air compressor
1 x Impact screwdriver


Begin by putting on your parking brake, and breaking loose the lugs before you lift the car off the ground



Jack up the car. If you only have one jack, set it on a jack stand, you'll need the jack soon



Remove the lugs and put the wheel aside



The endlink is the long vertical bar with the yellow sticker connecting the sway bar to the shocks



Both bolts are 3/4" or 19MM, you need a short socket to fit in the small space. This nut will be TIGHT, I recommend hitting the socket wrench with the rubber mallet as seen below.

Note: When loosening the nuts, the bolt might spin in place, be sure to look on the other side of the mount point and see if it is spinning instead of loosening the nut. If so, grip it with a pair of vice grips to hold it in place.



If you have a compressor and air tools, you can break it loose that way



Remove the bottom nut



Location of the top nut



Removed, you can see it slanting due to the pull of the suspension



Jack up the suspension to relieve the pressure on the endlink



Lift it up until the bolt is straight



Grab the endlink and pull it out





Put the new endlink in place



Tighten up the nuts, as tight as possible





Replace the wheel, tightening up the lugs in a star pattern





Tighten up the lugs to 80 ft/lb with a torque wrench





The opposite side is the same, just reversed




Note: This may affect your alignment. It is recommended you get an alignment after replacing these.

 

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Former Administrator
2011 K5 Turbo
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Nice little DIY there! This is for sure a do-able swap with the right tools and can save anyone some money instead of paying the dealer/mechanic to do it.

What did new endlinks run you if you dont mind me asking?
Just replacement OEM endlinks I got from unreligion. Nothing fancy.
 

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1,390 Posts
Nice writeup! I think I might need to do this soon @ 50,000 miles.

Just wondering if there might be some better quality aftermarket endlinks somewhere that I won't have to replace after another 50k miles. Or would this be covered under warranty and maybe the dealer could do it? Though I understand anyone's reluctance to roll the dice and have them work on their car when it's something you can DIY.
 

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Former Administrator
2011 K5 Turbo
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6,894 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The endlinks are covered up to 5year/60K miles. Get them changed for free while you still can!

I'm at 66K miles now, which is why I replaced them on my own.
 

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2012 Black SX Prem. & Tech.
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On a Kia Rondo these links were about $45 each from the dealership, but only $18 each online.

Also two other approaches. 1) you can jack up the entire front end of the car to get both wheels off the ground at the same time, so the bolts will be aligned automatically.

And 2), the shaft of the bolt coming out of the end link has a flattened part, so you can hold it still and keep it from rotating by using an open-end wrench on that part. Helps loosen the old one, and prevents premature wear when you are torquing down the nuts on the new one. I forget the torque but it is pretty high, like all your arm strength.
 

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Former Administrator
2011 K5 Turbo
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6,894 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
On a Kia Rondo these links were about $45 each from the dealership, but only $18 each online.

Also two other approaches. 1) you can jack up the entire front end of the car to get both wheels off the ground at the same time, so the bolts will be aligned automatically.

And 2), the shaft of the bolt coming out of the end link has a flattened part, so you can hold it still and keep it from rotating by using an open-end wrench on that part. Helps loosen the old one, and prevents premature wear when you are torquing down the nuts on the new one. I forget the torque but it is pretty high, like all your arm strength.
Good info, thanks for sharing!
 

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Great info, these are the kind of threads I come to this board for. 10/10

Now I think I understand all these people I see slowing down to 5 mph to go over railroad track crossings. I might start doing that once i get mine replaced.
 

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Hi gang.

AreENDLINKS te Samething as "Lnk Stabilizers"???

My 2013 EX-T has 48000km(~ 30K miles) on it and when I brought it in today for normal servcing I reported to the service dept noise from the Rear over bumps... They called to say it was the Rar Left ad Right Link Stabilizers and Replaced them under warranty.

They say it is Normal for them to require repacing at this interval!!! I bought the car New 1.5 Years ago! This is ridiculous and I want to know "If this is Normal", and what I should expect to pay outside Warranty?

Thanks.
 

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Your K5 Optima Vendor
2019 Stinger GT1
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29,375 Posts
I'm just seeing this thread now, but wanted to say thank you for taking the time to put this together for members to see exactly step by step what needs to be done to replace they're worn out or damaged endlinks.
 

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2011
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I'm just seeing this thread now, but wanted to say thank you for taking the time to put this together for members to see exactly step by step what needs to be done to replace they're worn out or damaged endlinks.
^^ LOL me too, didn't know this thread even existed and Thanks to Munky for this DIY. Luckily last week my dealer just replaced both end links for the front under warranty and my car is at 40K miles, I didn't even know where the noise came from until they pointed that out and it was driving me nuts lol.
 

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Your K5 Optima Vendor
2019 Stinger GT1
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29,375 Posts
^^ LOL me too, didn't know this thread even existed and Thanks to Munky for this DIY. Luckily last week my dealer just replaced both end links for the front under warranty and my car is at 40K miles, I didn't even know where the noise came from until they pointed that out and it was driving me nuts lol.
Yeah it's funny, one of my customers who's also a friend of mine text me asking about rear endlinks, after doing a quick search on the forum I found this thread and realized how informative and detailed it is. We were thinking about adding performance endlinks to the site as well, so this is a great step by step to build a DIY PDF for customers to use during installation. So yeah thanks again Munky! :thumbsup:
 

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Does the entire part have to be replaced? How about just the parts that wear at both ends?
 

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2012 Black SX Prem. & Tech.
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Yes, the entire thing is sold as one piece. See part #5 here, for a 2012 SX:
2012 Kia Optima Parts - Kia Car Parts has the Largest Inventory of Kia Parts in the USA!

Note that the above link is for OEM Kia parts, at $50 per part.

Instead you can get aftermarket, which are sized to fit like OEM, for like $16 per part (check the listing for AC delco):
http://www.carparts.com/results/?N=...+4294962132+4294964898+4294967066&universal=0

So pay the dealer like $150 for parts and labor to do this, risk new scratches to your car and losing access to your car for X days, or roll up your sleeves on a nice Sunday afternoon after spending around $35 for DIY awesomeness.

The joints at each end of the link have to be very precise and stiff to avoid loose/wiggle, so it's probably impractical to try to service the end because these have to be very strong to keep the car stabilized and absorb road shocks. The very problem is that they simply wear out over time despite being so stiff and powerful, like an old athlete's knee joint whose cartilage has simply worn down.
 

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Is there any after market product that will Last Longer than the original? 40K miles, or in my case, 48k kilometres, is not much distance for them to have worn out... Next replacement will likely be outside warranty and it would be nice to use a more durable long lasting product. -CL
 

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Your K5 Optima Vendor
2019 Stinger GT1
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29,375 Posts
Is there any after market product that will Last Longer than the original? 40K miles, or in my case, 48k kilometres, is not much distance for them to have worn out... Next replacement will likely be outside warranty and it would be nice to use a more durable long lasting product. -CL
Yes there is, and we will be adding them to our site very soon. You can email us for product & pricing info anytime though.
 
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