After doing the valve cover replacement, I have some more insights that aren't mentioned in the video above:
1. No need for the "glue" - the gaskets fit very snugly into their valve cover grooves, and friction holds them there. So you just push in the new gaskets and they stay put nicely, even during install when you are maneuvering the valve cover around to get it into place.
2. Remove the horn - it gets in the way, and removing it made installation easier because it gives you room to swing the valve cover side to side.
3. Loosen the bracket at the front - this is the bracket that provides a metal loop for lifting the engine, and it gets in the way. The bolt won't come all the way out, but if you loosen it all the way, the bracket wobbles back and forth. This is helpful for two reasons: you can move the bracket to easily reach the valve cover bolt, and you can move the bracket back and forth during the valve cover removal and installation.
4. The loosened bracket helps with valve cover installation - this part is not intuitive but worked well for me.
To install the valve cover, you rotate/angle the cover and insert the far end under the fuel line, but because you've gone in at an angle, the part of the cover near you will actually be offset to the side so much that the valve cover will be covering the loosened bracket inside the cover. This is totally wrong, but at this angle, the far end of the cover will very easily go under the metal fuel line so you don't really have to bend the metal fuel line. The valve cover bracket seems designed like this, with a divot to fit under things. Anyway, once you are "in/under" you can scoot the cover in further so the far end will clear the mounting points for the fuel pump, and will drop down and be in place. But, the near end still needs to be maneuvered. So, you lift up the near end, to clear that bracket you previously covered. You can then move the bracket to outside the cover. Now the cover is ready to drop down in place.
That's why it's important to loosen that bracket, because it angles back and forth during cover installation to get out of the way of the valve cover as you pivot it side to side. Without that, you'd really need to bend the fuel line. According to the manual the metal fuel line should be replaced and not re-used. But I'm re-using my old one so I tried to baby that line as much as possible.
Also I suggest "practicing" the installation maneuver before you've added the gasket. After three practice tries, the procedure was easy to do without hitting the bottom of the valve cover against anything. So when I finally installed the cover, everything went smoothly. This is important because you will have two little dabs of liquid gasket, so you want to be careful when finally placing the cover.
5. When disconnecting the metal fuel line, it's better to loosen the high pressure fuel pump first, so you can lift up the pump with the line, and then easily disengage the metal fuel line from the pump. Otherwise you'd have to bend the metal line unnecessarily out and away from the fixed pump, to let the line's nipple clear the port orifice on the fuel pump. Keeping the line in the pump also avoids damage to the nipple on the fuel line, because the line is engaged/protected when you are moving the pump/line together. Same when reconnecting but in reverse - it's best to connect the metal fuel line to the high pressure fuel pump, then lower the pump/line down into place together.
Here's how clean the inside was. The old gasket came off in one piece intact without sticking to the engine or valve cover. This is with about 110,000 miles. So it was really easy to just pull out the old gasket and use cleaner to wipe down the mating surfaces. I use Walmart synthetic oil, change at 5000 miles. You can see how the heat shield at the back of the engine was stained with burnt oil - my valve cover leak was at the back near the high pressure fuel pump. But after reinstalling the valve cover (to protect the engine from dirt), I took off the heat shield and scrubbed it down to get it clean. The engine and gasket looked nice and clean:
This shows a little detail on the gasket (I got the OEM gasket, linked in the video above), where there is a textured section to engage with the liquid gasket you put down as part of the installation:
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I didn't take a video because I was using both hands, but I tried to draw arrows to give you an idea of how you insert at an angle (which will cover the loosened bracket, circled), by coming in at that angle and going up over the high pressure fuel pump mounting point, but under the metal fuel line. The valve cover has a circular divot that lets it fit between these, when you go in at the angle shown. But that angle will cause the near end of the cover to enclose/cover the loosened bracket, which is OK. Once you clear the far end, you can then rotate the cover, and the far end will drop almost into place. Then, you can lift up the near end to uncover the loose bracket, and rotate the near end so it's ready to drop into place. You can do all this without letting the valve cover touch the mating surface.
Removing the horn helps with this maneuvering, it's just a single bolt and well worth the slight effort to remove the horn.
