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When I go in for an oil change they keep wanting me to get synthetic oil put in my car. Why is this better can anyone tell me. I have 2015 Optima lx.
 

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When I go in for an oil change they keep wanting me to get synthetic oil put in my car. Why is this better can anyone tell me. I have 2015 Optima lx.
What engine? ..... is it TGDI or GDI or MPI?
How long do you run your oil (in miles)?

If yu are not capable to change your own oil, just buy the service center's regular / conventional oil and change it every 3K. Once you mention what specific engine you have, then I can recommend either 5w30 or 5w40 oil.

Both of these are improvements over 5w20 oil that the dealer pushes and the manufacturer often recommends for best fuel economy. But once any new vehicle purchaser drives that new vehicle away from the dealership, we want engine longetivity over fuel economy and that usually means buying a little thicker oil than 5w20, for these South Korean four cylinder engines. Use the thickest oil that your owners manual allows.... especially during warranty coverage.

BTW.... I use name-brand synthetic and change every 3,750 miles. There's too many engine failures with these South Korean Kia's and Hyundai's. You need to run top-tier approved fuel ...... thick-side SP/GF6 Dexos1 oils - run fuel cleaners (Techron) in your tank every 4-5k, run CRC spray cleaner in your intake manifold every 12k, for longer life / improved results / fewer breakdowns.
 

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Anyone have a good video showing a test between conventional and synthetic oil?

My understanding is synthetic keeps its properties longer than conventional, when undergoing engine stresses like heat and wear. The turbo engine in the Kia can subject the oil to very high temperatures (especially when you turn off the car after spirited driving). So the conventional oil would break down sooner, and not have the lubricating properties, compared to synthetic.

Also, there are pretty strict ratings on oil performance. The synthetic oils will meet the strictest/fanciest ratings.

But there is a complication about the Kia engine that can influence your decision: the engine contaminates the oil with lots of fuel over time, which degrades the oil anyway. So, looking at it another way, even if you had magical oil that magically stayed new and never degraded, the problem is your car is going to dump gas into the oil anyway, and over time that will require you to change the oil anyway.

So in a sense, it would be a waste to spend a lot on super-fancy oil, because it won't last much longer than cheap oil anyway when used in our cars (not all engines ruin the oil like this).

Personally, I change my own oil, and the difference in cost between conventional and synthetic is about $4. But the dealerships and service centers usually add an unfair markup to the synthetic oil change, like maybe $50, it's like stealing from you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What engine? ..... is it TGDI or GDI or MPI?
How long do you run your oil (in miles)?

If yu are not capable to change your own oil, just buy the service center's regular / conventional oil and change it every 3K. Once you mention what specific engine you have, then I can recommend either 5w30 or 5w40 oil.

Both of these are improvements over 5w20 oil that the dealer pushes and the manufacturer often recommends for best fuel economy. But once any new vehicle purchaser drives that new vehicle away from the dealership, we want engine longetivity over fuel economy and that usually means buying a little thicker oil than 5w20, for these South Korean four cylinder engines. Use the thickest oil that your owners manual allows.... especially during warranty coverage.

BTW.... I use name-brand synthetic and change every 3,750 miles. There's too many engine failures with these South Korean Kia's and Hyundai's. You need to run top-tier approved fuel ...... thick-side SP/GF6 Dexos1 oils - run fuel cleaners (Techron) in your tank every 4-5k, run CRC spray cleaner in your intake manifold every 12k, for longer life / improved results / fewer breakdowns.
I have 2.4 gdi I do have issues At times it doesn’t seem to be running as smoothly but then if I turn it off and turn it back on a little bit later it runs like Great but I started them hearing a like a noise in the engine so I’m thinking maybe I should go to the synthetic thanks for the advice
Anyone have a good video showing a test between conventional and synthetic oil?

My understanding is synthetic keeps its properties longer than conventional, when undergoing engine stresses like heat and wear. The turbo engine in the Kia can subject the oil to very high temperatures (especially when you turn off the car after spirited driving). So the conventional oil would break down sooner, and not have the lubricating properties, compared to synthetic.

Also, there are pretty strict ratings on oil performance. The synthetic oils will meet the strictest/fanciest ratings.

But there is a complication about the Kia engine that can influence your decision: the engine contaminates the oil with lots of fuel over time, which degrades the oil anyway. So, looking at it another way, even if you had magical oil that magically stayed new and never degraded, the problem is your car is going to dump gas into the oil anyway, and over time that will require you to change the oil anyway.

So in a sense, it would be a waste to spend a lot on super-fancy oil, because it won't last much longer than cheap oil anyway when used in our cars (not all engines ruin the oil like this).

Personally, I change my own oil, and the difference in cost between conventional and synthetic is about $4. But the dealerships and service centers usually add an unfair markup to the synthetic oil change, like maybe $50, it's like stealing from you.
are used to do my oil changes when I was younger but now I just take it and have it done I feel like I deserve it now and I live in Southern California so the temperatures aren’t that bad so thank you king I knew you’d pop in here somewhere.
 

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From historic data of engine failures, it doesn't matter what oil you use, the best synthetic or good old Dino, it won't save the engine if it's destined to go.
I've said this before, use the cheapest oil e.g. SN Plus, dexos approved, Costco (Kirkland) synthetic 5w-30 $3.00 qt (price increase) or Walmart SuperTech 5w-30 synthetic $2.80 qt.
 

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I have 2.4 gdi I do have issues At times it doesn’t seem to be running as smoothly but then if I turn it off and turn it back on a little bit later it runs like Great but I started them hearing a like a noise in the engine so I’m thinking maybe I should go to the synthetic thanks for the advice
Are you changing the oil on time?

If so, your engine issue might be unrelated to oil. The difference between conventional and synthetic is more for long-term engine health. I don't think you would see a change in the engine behavior immediately, especially if there is some unusual engine noise or lack of smooth running.

Maybe you can begin a new discussion to try to describe the engine problems in more detail, along with how old are the spark plugs, air filter, etc.?
 

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From historic data of engine failures, it doesn't matter what oil you use, the best synthetic or good old Dino, it won't save the engine if it's destined to go.
I've said this before, use the cheapest oil e.g. SN Plus, dexos approved, Costco (Kirkland) synthetic 5w-30 $3.00 qt (price increase) or Walmart SuperTech 5w-30 synthetic $2.80 qt.
While your statement is very likely true for the issue that can cause the engine failure that is now under warranty, running a quality synthetic oil and a realistic change interval (driver/miles dependent) would protect from other parts in the engine that over time can suffer wear (rings, camshafts, etc.). Pretty cheap insurance really IMHO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Are you changing the oil on time?

If so, your engine issue might be unrelated to oil. The difference between conventional and synthetic is more for long-term engine health. I don't think you would see a change in the engine behavior immediately, especially if there is some unusual engine noise or lack of smooth running.

Maybe you can begin a new discussion to try to describe the engine problems in more detail, along with how old are the spark plugs, air filter, etc.?
King, so I had a friend change my spark plugs but they didn’t really need to be changed he said but since I had already got them did it anyways. But during that we check air filter and it wasn’t clipped on in the bottom back off the air filter I don’t know hoe long it’s been loose, but we clips them back on. It’s been running great.
 

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I have 2.4 gdi I do have issues At times it doesn’t seem to be running as smoothly but then if I turn it off and turn it back on a little bit later it runs like Great but I started them hearing a like a noise in the engine so I’m thinking maybe I should go to the synthetic thanks for the advice
Your problem seems to be something-other than oil-related.
Synthetic is always a better choice for GDI engines like yours. Wider outdoor cold/hot temp ratings..... wider inner engine temp ratings .... better gas mileage......longer life ....etc....etc.

Don;t use oil change shops for synthetics. Give a neighbor, friend or relative $20 to change your synthetic oil. Buy it at Walmart for best everyday prices. You can probably do the change and pay the neighbor .... for right around $60. Typical shop price is at least $75-$90 and the person performing the work doesn't care if he / she makes a mistake and ruins your engine. Shops have insurances to cover those mishaps.

No, I don't recommend frugal-priced Supertech, Amazon, Costco / Kirkland oils. When the maker of these oils (Warren Distribution) gets a major auto manufacturer contract of a major vehicle brand name - that allows Supertech/Costco-type oils inside brand new factory engines, that's when I'll finally purchase the product and try it myself.
 

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No, I don't recommend frugal-priced Supertech, Amazon, Costco / Kirkland oils. When the maker of these oils (Warren Distribution) gets a major auto manufacturer contract of a major vehicle brand name - that allows Supertech/Costco-type oils inside brand new factory engines, that's when I'll finally purchase the product and try it myself.
Not a very accurate statement. Please tell me what is wrong with SuperTech/ Kirkland, etc when they are SN plus and dexos certified.

Maybe the following will help you and others:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Your problem seems to be something-other than oil-related.
Synthetic is always a better choice for GDI engines like yours. Wider outdoor cold/hot temp ratings..... wider inner engine temp ratings .... better gas mileage......longer life ....etc....etc.

Don;t use oil change shops for synthetics. Give a neighbor, friend or relative $20 to change your synthetic oil. Buy it at Walmart for best everyday prices. You can probably do the change and pay the neighbor .... for right around $60. Typical shop price is at least $75-$90 and the person performing the work doesn't care if he / she makes a mistake and ruins your engine. Shops have insurances to cover those mishaps.

No, I don't recommend frugal-priced Supertech, Amazon, Costco / Kirkland oils. When the maker of these oils (Warren Distribution) gets a major auto manufacturer contract of a major vehicle brand name - that allows Supertech/Costco-type oils inside brand new factory engines, that's when I'll finally purchase the product and try it myself.
Thank you for your input trash my friend changed the plugs for me last week, and we found out the air filter cover was not closed all the way and clipped I’m not sure how longer that been like ( well probably since last air filter change.
 

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While your statement is very likely true for the issue that can cause the engine failure that is now under warranty, running a quality synthetic oil and a realistic change interval (driver/miles dependent) would protect from other parts in the engine that over time can suffer wear (rings, camshafts, etc.). Pretty cheap insurance really IMHO.
If you read the information supplied from Blackstone, you'll see that as long as the oil meets the same criteria, there's no difference, so just keep putting in the high priced oil, and I'll sick with the $2.75 qt synthetic that's been great for yes. I've actually asked this before, when was the last time oil was the reason the engine died?

I experimented with Costco Kirkland brand 5W30 full synthetic on my Hyundai sonata and Kia optima, both with the 2.4 l theta 2 engine. They didn't like that oil, it was too thick. I had intermittent issues at startup with 5w30. I switched to 5W20 full synthetic and not had that problem since. 5W20 is stamped on the engine oil cap, I will use it year-round. I also hear less engine rumble with 5W20 in low speeds, high torque areas like going up a hill.
This was posted somewhere else and I'll repeat, if you say the engine struggles, and can detect the difference, between 5-30 and 5-20, Impossible.

I have done a lot of research on this topic and lighter oil is better. But anyway, the point is doing regular (every 7k miles) oil changes is key to success. I have seen optimas with 275,000 + miles on original engine. Quaker State full synthetic or Pennzoil 5W20 full synthetic is the way to go. Tech at dealership told me he likes Castrol.
You'll need to do a lot more research as no type of maintenance is going to spare the engine if it's destined to go. If you want proof I can start with the vehicles that have used synthetic, 3500/4000 mile oil changes and the engines go boom.

Like they say, you can lead a horse to water, but you can't make it drink.
This is the end, I'm done.
 

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Not a very accurate statement. Please tell me what is wrong with SuperTech/ Kirkland, etc when they are SN plus and dexos certified.

Maybe the following will help you and others:
I surely don't need any help. The only help I need is finding my grade of SOPUS, Castrol, Mobil-1 or Valvoline oils in Walmart. The only store house brand I trust is NAPA oil, made by the Valvoline group.

Just used Napa Syn 0W20 in my 04' Colorado, as an experiment. Worked real well for 3k, despite the oil cap calling for 5w30. Just a one-time experiment that convinced me that the full syn 0w20s are robust / built outstandingly well. Highly recommend 0w20 over 5w20 in almost any application.

Ask the Automakers why they don't use Warren Distribution oils in their new vehicles.
 

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Guess you didn't read the article from Blackstone, so you need all the help you can get. Get a list of oils that the factories put in new cars and you'd be amazed at the number of well know brands not used. Mobil 1 is used because of cost. They have deep pockets and discount the oil heavily, and experimenting with an oil, 0w-20, for 3k miles is meaningless. You could run a straight 10w in there for 3k miles and find no problems, so if you believe that the 3k mile test is the criteria to recommend the 0-20 oil for all to use, then you do need to go back to the drawing board.
 

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If folks want to stick with using big-name oil brands because that's what they have the most trust in, then that's their prerogative...but personally I find it amusing that someone wouldn't use Amazon/Kirkland oil simply because it's not the oil brand used by car manufacturers as (OEM) fill in new vehicle engines and/or oil change services. I mean, do you have any empirical evidence that the simple use of non-big name oil brands such as Amazon or Kirkland-branded oil alone has led or otherwise contributed to widespread severe engine wear or complete engine failure across hundreds if not thousands of vehicles in which such oil brands were used as oil fill?

Put it this way--I'd be willing to bet that neither the Kia Soul nor the Hyundai Santa Fe came with Mobil-1 or some other big-name brand synthetic oil as factory fill, and unless you specifically ask the service department at your local dealer to fill it with synthetic oil when requesting an oil change, they will fill it with who knows what brand dino oil. If you're gonna play the "I'd rather put my trust in what auto manufacturers use when it comes to oil" card, then I'll simply offer this--if dino oil--regardless of what oil brand--is good enough for auto manufacturers (with certain exceptions, of course--e.g., Corvette), then shouldn't it be good enough for you?
 

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Highly recommend 0w20 over 5w20 in almost any application.
Unless the owner's manual explicitly permits oil weight variations such as the one highlighted above, such a recommendation without prefacing that it can be done only if the owner's manual allows for it is not a wise thing to say, let alone possibly grounds for the vehicle manufacturer to not honor a powertrain warranty claim if it turns out that an oil weight not recommended in the owner's manual was used and turned out to be a contributing factor.

Ask the Automakers why they don't use Warren Distribution oils in their new vehicles.
Ask the automakers why they don't use Mobil-1 (or some other big-name brand synthetic oil) in all of their new vehicles. That Kia Soul of yours probably didn't come with Warren Distribution oil in its engine when new, but I'm willing to bet that it didn't come with Mobil-1 or any other big-name brand synthetic oil as factory fill either. You haven't presented a reasonable and convincing argument as to why it's not recommended for consumers to use Amazon or Kirkland synthetic oil in their vehicles other than to imply that your not doing so is simply a personal choice. I'm not saying you made a wrong decision in going with Mobil-1 or other big-name brand synthetic oil, just that the reason you choose to do so (namely, because auto manufacturers aren't using non-big name brands) is not one based on anything having to do with real-life oil performance.
 
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