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G4z808- Any update on the newer rings reliability? I read that you had one of the rings burn out but didn't know if there have been any updates to them that may have fixed that issue. Also I'm looking at buying some from K5 ( David ) and when I checked them out on TRS they give the option of buying the $25 harness. Do I need that or can I just wire up my own harness to power them?

Also the new V2 rings are still yellow when off correct? I know it's a small detail but I LOVE the look of the yellow rings in the headlight when they are off and want to make sure the new rings still have that look.

Thanks for the information

Adam
 

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Discussion Starter #182
Bro, they are on v2 revision 3 or something already. Supposedly the issues have been ironed out. I had to replace 5 of my led drivers under warrenty, and replace one ring under warrenty that had a coupe dots go out.

They are definitely worth it.
For the relay harness , I think you will probably be fine withought it. The relay harness came around after initial trouble started poping up with the v2 rings, I had a relay harness made up for my rings by TRS , this was before they offered it as a option. But I believe the issue was from defects in the circuit board, and not from a lack of relay. I opened one of my dead drivers up and the circuit board is chared and burned.

So I would go withought the relay imo

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Bro, they are on v2 revision 3 or something already. Supposedly the issues have been ironed out. I had to replace 5 of my led drivers under warrenty, and replace one ring under warrenty that had a coupe dots go out.

They are definitely worth it.
For the relay harness , I think you will probably be fine withought it. The relay harness came around after initial trouble started poping up with the v2 rings, I had a relay harness made up for my rings by TRS , this was before they offered it as a option. But I believe the issue was from defects in the circuit board, and not from a lack of relay. I opened one of my dead drivers up and the circuit board is chared and burned.

So I would go withought the relay imo

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Awesome! Thanks for all the insight. One last question though........are they still yellow when off?? I HOPE SO:D
 

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Do you think you could have fit a larger projector than the H1 that you used?
I'm going to do a retrofit as well. Seeing as I have the halogen lights I was thinking of putting an FX-R in the same location you put the H1 in but the FX-R is a full inch taller than the H1.
 

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Discussion Starter #186
I already had to cut the plastic a good bit to get the mini to fit. Although I would love to slap a fx-r in there , I am certain you will not get it in without extreme modification, changing the whole headlight.

If your looking for better output than the mini H1. Wait for the square mini D2S to drop, outout on it is supposed to be great. And should be workable in size

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I've been waiting with baited breath for the square D2S'. I think the shroud will suit that opening well as well.
Thanks for your help!
 

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Discussion Starter #188
I've been waiting with baited breath for the square D2S'. I think the shroud will suit that opening well as well.
Thanks for your help!
Except weirdly enough, the shroud for the square projector is a circle :confused: I was hoping the shroud would be square too

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I've decided that I am going to do this, so thanks again for the write up.

But I'm curious... what do you use the 3 blue LEDs in the projectors for? When do they turn on? I think it would be kinda nifty if you made them turn on with your side markers or angel eyes, but not blink. Also, you had stock HID projectors before, correct? Or did you have stock non-HID projectors? I have HIDs in mine, but with the non-HID projector. I think doing this mod will help fix the small lighting "shadows" that come with the non-HID projectors. Would you agree?

Lastly, just to clarify (I'm know you said this before, but the video kinda made me question that maybe you had changed this?) you have all 4 come on with low beams. But the original high beams positioned projectors have a solenoid in them that flip them to high beam, correct? Meaning, low beams on = all 4 lights on. High beams on = 2 outer on (low beam), 2 inner on ("high" beams - solenoid activated)?
 

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I also have the non-hid headlights. The halogen projectors are 3" diameter. It looks like en E46/E55/EvoX-R will bolt in as a replacement. I think that would give you the best lighting performance upgrade for the halogen headlights. I just bought an extra halogen headlight to open and do some measuring to see if the projectors I mentioned will actually just bolt in.
The halogen high beam do their job pretty well. Unless you want the 'look' of a quad setup in which case a Mini H1 or the "to be released" square Mini D2S wil fit the bill.
 

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I also have the non-hid headlights. The halogen projectors are 3" diameter. It looks like en E46/E55/EvoX-R will bolt in as a replacement. I think that would give you the best lighting performance upgrade for the halogen headlights. I just bought an extra halogen headlight to open and do some measuring to see if the projectors I mentioned will actually just bolt in.
The halogen high beam do their job pretty well. Unless you want the 'look' of a quad setup in which case a Mini H1 or the "to be released" square Mini D2S wil fit the bill.
But have you tested the EvoX-Rs? I don't mind leaving the stock projectors alone if the quads will illuminate the shadows. They aren't a big issue, and I like my HIDs, but if I can fix it, I will.
So, that might be a reason for going quads - just to make a more "pure" light output. Plus, I kinda like the look of them.

Just thought of one more question, G... when you painted your headlights, did you have any problem with them fogging up on the inside due to out gassing of the paint?
 

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I haven't tested the EvoX-r's as yet. I'm going to open the light and then contact TRS to compare dimensions and go from there.
A real HID projector will be infinitely better than HID's in a halogen projector and you won't blind people either. That alone would fix the shadowing and make for better light output in both distance and width.
Check out hidplanet.com for comparison pics.
In my experience when I painted my housings I put them in the oven for 10 minutes to bake the paint and get rid of as much off gases as possible. This and even leaving them out over night will minimize the chance of fogging up the lenses once they are put back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #194
But have you tested the EvoX-Rs? I don't mind leaving the stock projectors alone if the quads will illuminate the shadows. They aren't a big issue, and I like my HIDs, but if I can fix it, I will.
So, that might be a reason for going quads - just to make a more "pure" light output. Plus, I kinda like the look of them.

Just thought of one more question, G... when you painted your headlights, did you have any problem with them fogging up on the inside due to out gassing of the paint?
I am not running the painted headlights, ther are just one of my spares that i painted.

If you are just looking to get rid of the return wire shadows, you can buy the XB35 H11B bulb from TRS, it is supposed to get rid of the shadows by having the return wire in a different position.

the operation of my lights you described is correct. And those blue LED in the projectors are long gone. they shorted so i pulled them all out. but i did have them wired to my angel eyes to be always on



I haven't tested the EvoX-r's as yet. I'm going to open the light and then contact TRS to compare dimensions and go from there.
A real HID projector will be infinitely better than HID's in a halogen projector and you won't blind people either. That alone would fix the shadowing and make for better light output in both distance and width.
Check out hidplanet.com for comparison pics.
In my experience when I painted my housings I put them in the oven for 10 minutes to bake the paint and get rid of as much off gases as possible. This and even leaving them out over night will minimize the chance of fogging up the lenses once they are put back together.

I have a spare halogen projector and lens in my closet, if you want i can stick a tape measure next to it and get you photos, If you want i can sell you the whole projector too, $20 shipped
 

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Thanks for the offer. I really appreciate it. The one I bought should be delivered this week.
The main concern is the metal housing and will the projector fit inside or do I have to cut it up. And is that even a possibility.
I'd really like to replace the halogen projectors with a set of RX330 ones. It all comes down to space.
 

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Discussion Starter #196
Thanks for the offer. I really appreciate it. The one I bought should be delivered this week.
The main concern is the metal housing and will the projector fit inside or do I have to cut it up. And is that even a possibility.
I'd really like to replace the halogen projectors with a set of RX330 ones. It all comes down to space.

sounds good, interested to see your results. would be the first optima on the forums with a true retro
 

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So, no one has converted halogen projectors to HID projectors? It shouldn't be that difficult should it? Wouldn't the ones that you used for your high beams work in the low beam section? So instead of getting one set of the projectors, get two and swap the entire thing out?
 

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There is a metal housing that holds the projector. Trying to get something in there securely will be a PITA.
Its not the same as fitting a projector into a typical halogen reflector bowl.

OEM Halogen projector (3") on the left vs OEM HID projector (2.5") on the right:



We'll see how it goes next week. There's always the option of leaving the halogen in and putting a bixenon in the high beam location, much like what G4z has done.
 

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Ebay is your best bet. Just look at the pics of the back/bottom of the housings. The ballast for the HID is on the bottom. If it doesn't have that then its halogen.
Most will specify halogen or not in the description though.

 
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