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2014 Kia Optima Ex
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all. Dumb of me I know but I accidentally broke off the coil bolt while re-tightening. What are my options? EZ out? Left handed drill bit? Also how much for a shop to fix this. Pic attached. Thanks.
248476
 

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2011 Kia Optima
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See if you can get a sharp chisel and use the tip on the edge of the broken bolt to try and get the bolt to turn.
If not, drill and use an ez out, but if need be, just leave the coil pack sit there and you'll still be able to use the car until you get it out.
 

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Wow, that sucks. Just did my plugs yesterday, figured 95,000 miles would be good time finally to do them for first time. Bolts were super easy to remove, took me literally 2 minutes per plug and never unplugged the connector.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Wow, that sucks. Just did my plugs yesterday, figured 95,000 miles would be good time finally to do them for first time. Bolts were super easy to remove, took me literally 2 minutes per plug and never unplugged the connector.
Yes, I have never broken a bolt off before. I just He-manned it a little too much when tightening up. My bad.. Should have known better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So I trusted a friend who went to automotive school to take the bolt out. He assured me it would be no problem..He drilled it and couldn't get it out. He also mucked up the brass fitting the bolt goes in so now i am really screwed. Bringing it to an independent shop tomm. How much of a pain to replace the brass insert the ignition bolt threads into? Do i need a whole new valve cover??
 

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****, I was going to say to cut a slot with a file or dremel and use a screwdriver on the slot, like it was a screw.

Do you have a picture showing the extent of the damage? maybe you can clean the existing drill hole, use a thread tapper to cut threads into it, and get a different bolt to fit the newly cut threads.

I'd suggest that you have more flexibility here, because the bolt is not structural or preventing leaks. It's just to keep the coil from flying off.

.
 

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If the brass is compromised, drill it out and there are plenty of threaded inserts avaiable in various sizes you can use in its place, then just use a bolt for that insert to hold the coil down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Brought it to reputable local shop. Said my friend damaged it too much if it was just broken off like before he could of got it out... You really do not want to see a picture of what it looks like now....Needs new valve cover. 577 bucks. Comes as a kit. Friend offered to help with cost since he damaged it enough to warrant a new valve cover. Will arrive in a few days. If the engine wasn't under recall then I would just do a quick fix or just leave it. But if my engine goes i don't need the dealership saying what happened here and not go through with engine replacement. Car runs great but is starting to burn a good amount of oil. I heard that is a sign of bad things to come.
 

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Valve cover $200 VC & gasket.....$370 labor??
Depending on your location used available $25.

The oil consumption on our 2.0T got to a qt 350 miles, new engine installed 12/19 172,000 miles.
Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
$312 for parts and $230 for labor plus tax... I guess it is a kit includes valve cover, new gasket, pcv valve and fuel pump gasket etc.. Friend who screwed up the bolt and brass fitting helping with cost... Car burns about a quart every 600-700 miles on Valvoline Maxlife Syn Blend 5w20. Funny thing when the dealership changes it they use 5w30 and it burns a lot slower..I almost wonder if 5w30 is a better weight for our vehicles.. I don't know if it is the special valve on the Kia filter or just the heavier weight but seems to burn less when dealership changes it as opposed to myself or Valvoline... Have a good day.
 

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I have the 2.0T engine, and it only accepts 5W30 or 5W40. I cannot use 5w20.

But just as something I've noticed, I cannot find inexpensive store-brand 5W40 full synthetic. Only 5W30 full synthetic. So that's what I use, and stick with an oil change interval of 5000 miles.
 

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Man $540 for a recessed nut that was damaged. Hard to believe that you'd notice a difference with 5-20, 5-30, or even 10-30, as I found no difference even using 15-40 in the 2.0T old oil burning engine.
At least it's done.
 

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I have the 2.0T engine, and it only accepts 5W30 or 5W40. I cannot use 5w20.

But just as something I've noticed, I cannot find inexpensive store-brand 5W40 full synthetic. Only 5W30 full synthetic. So that's what I use, and stick with an oil change interval of 5000 miles.
Ditto; if you are not a complete stickler when it comes to the factory warranty you could just use 0W-40 (preferably Castrol Edge 0W-40 since the oil is supposedly better/higher quality stock and is made in Belgium) like some of the other folks here in the forum have been using without any apparent ill-effects.
 
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