Well here we go. This project was pretty easy. Most of my time was used for getting the bracket just right as it's a tight fit.
Tools you'll need are:
10mm Socket
8mm Socket
19mm Open End Wrench
8mm Open End Wrench
5mm Allen
4mm Allen
2.5mm Allen
Duckbill Pliers
Loctite Thread Sealent ( Optional )
Loctite Blue Thread Locker ( Optional )
Cold Shrink Fusion Tape
Small Table
Sweat Shorts, no Buckles or Rings or Watches. Don't want to scratch the Paint you know.
Remove the Top Engine Cover.
I laid everything out. I used the Duckbills to squeeze the Tabs on the Hose Clamps to remove the Original PCV to Intake Manifold Hose. Original Hose is Pictured on the Table.
ADD W1 V3 OCC and Kia 3.0K Install by
John Nelson, on Flickr
Remove the Bolt with the 10mm Socket, insert the OCC Bracket Between the top Plastic and the ( I think it's a ) metal Bracket under it ( Where the bolt came out of ). Re-insert the Bolt to test Fit. Bolt at the Bottom of the PIC.
ADD W1 V3 OCC and Kia 3.0K Install_g by
John Nelson, on Flickr
Next: I installed the 3/8th Nipple in the Inlet ( Left ) Port and the 5/8th Nipple in the Outlet ( Right ) port. The instruction recommended Teflon Tape but I used Loctite Thread Sealant as the Nipple Port Adapters are straight Cut Threads and not NPT Pipe Threads.
I then used the 19mm Wrench to check the tightness of the PVC valve, gotto be carfull as the PCV is Plastic.
Next: I removed the Bolt and OCC Bracket. Mounted ( Loosely ) the OCC to the OCC Bracket with One Short Allen Screw and Nut from the Kit with Blue Loctite Thread Locker, make sure the Nut is towards the OCC. Then I mounted the OCC Assembly in the Engine Bay with the Supplied Long Allen Screw and ADD Washer ( Loosely ) with Blue Loctite Thread Locker. At this point, I had to re-clock the OCC on the Sub-Bracket One Screw Hole Clockwise to Face the ports towards the Intake Manifold. I then Wrapped the Windshield Washer Filler Neck and the upper OCC with Cold Shrink Fusion Tape just to be on the safe Side.
Next: I aligned the OCC where I wanted it to be. I wanted a more Vertical Can as if I used the Two short Screws, the can would have been Canted about 30 Degrees from Vertical. I tightened the Long Mounting Screw with the 5mm Allen. I then tightened the Short Allen Screw with the 4mm Allen and 8mm Open End Wrench.
Next: Hose Installation, I installed the 5/8ths Hose first. I had to cut to length the Hose, slip on the supplied Worm Gear Clamps, Installed Hose and tightened the Clamps. I then proceeded with the 3/8th Hose. First I test fitted the Hose and it was the exact length and no cutting need then I reused the Foam Outer Hose Protector and slid it over the the 3/8th Hose, it was a bear but it will go on. Then I installed the 3/8th Hose with the supplied Clamps.
ADD W1 V3 OCC and Kia 3.0K Install_b by
John Nelson, on Flickr
Another Angle:
ADD W1 V3 OCC and Kia 3.0K Install_c by
John Nelson, on Flickr
Close up:
ADD W1 V3 OCC and Kia 3.0K Install_h by
John Nelson, on Flickr
Install Top Engine Cover, Installation Complete.
ADD W1 V3 OCC and Kia 3.0K Install_d by
John Nelson, on Flickr
I then Ran the Engine for Ten Minutes and no Leaks. The I took the Car on a 40 Mile Hike, no Leaks or Engine Light.
Next is Badging and Installing the Kia 3.0K Logos. I did just the Front and Rear Logos for now. Nothing much to say here. Took me 10 Minutes to remove, 5 Minutes to Clean and about 10 Minutes to Install. Very Easy....
ADD W1 V3 OCC and Kia 3.0K Install_f by
John Nelson, on Flickr
ADD W1 V3 OCC and Kia 3.0K Install_e by
John Nelson, on Flickr
Last step: Wash my Car Tomorrow, it's filthy...................