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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've created this thread to document my goal for an "as close to OEM" Fog Lamp system install on my LX. I know some of you have installed OEM Fog Lamps utilizing Fuseholders, Relays, and auxialiary switches. My intent is to fabricate and install every component missing from the factory Fog Lamp option. I have studied the wiring schematics intensively on the Kiatech website. This will require:
  • Installing a new Multiswitch with the Fog Lamp function
  • Fabricating a wire harness with correct pins to install in the factory connectors between the Multiswitch and BCM
  • Physical Installation of the Fog Lamps
  • Fabrication of the factory wire harness from the Fog Lamp output at the IPS module to the lamps themselves using the correct pins and connectors
Going this route, the lamps will use the factory circuits and protection methods.

Multiswitch Replacement:
The LX Multiswitch will need to be replaced with one containing the Fog Lamp function. The 2011 Optima uses the exact same Multiswitch as the 2011 Sonata. Shark Racing will sell you just the multiswitch if you contact them. Currently it's only listed on their website as part of a complete Sonata kit.

Tools needed:
  • 10mm socket/ratchet or 10mm wrench
  • Straight pick tool
  • Small flat blade screwdriver
  • 22mm socket/ratchet and a torque wrench
  • #2 Phillips head screwdriver
  • Steering wheel puller (with sockets to fit the hex bolts and center bolt)
First and foremost is safety, since I will be removing the air bag module and steering wheel. Before disconnecting anything, park with the wheels straight and steering wheel centered. Begin by disconnecting the negative battery cable for at least 3 minutes (Per the Kia Service Manual) with the 10mm wrench or socket/ratchet.



Next we move inside the vehicle. Lighting is very important. You need to be able to see what you're doing!



The air bag module is held in place with 3 spring loaded pins. Holes to push in and release these pins are located on the back side of the steering wheel itself. There is a hole/pin on each side, and one on the bottom.



Insert the small straight pick tool into these holes and push in the retaining pins.



The airbag will gently spring outward upon the release of each pin.



Carefully lift out the airbag module and turn over so you can see the connections on the back side. There are a total of 3 connections: 1 for the horn ring and 2 for the airbag. The horn connection is a simple white push on connector. Gently pull this connector off of the terminal. The 2 airbag connectors are identical, but color coded to avoid mix-up during re-installation (blue on one, yellow on the other). Each airbag connector has a flat orange locking clip that needs to be gently pried up using a small flat blade screwdriver. You do not need to remove the orange clip, just raise it. After raising the orange clips, the two airbag connectors should be easily pulled off. Remove the air bag module and store it in a safe place until re-installation.



Removing the air bag exposes the nut that secures the steering wheel. Using a 22mm socket and ratchet, loosen the nut that secures the wheel. Unthread it about halfway, but leave it in place for now.



If your steering wheel puller came with different size/thread pitches on the hex bolts, find the one that mathces the thread pattern of the two empty threaded holes in the wheel on each side of the shaft. Thread the center bolt of the puller about halfway down the yoke (slotted portion of the puller). Take the 2 hex bolts that fit your wheels threaded holes, add a flat washer, and put them through the slots of the yoke and thread them into the holes in the wheel. You may need to use a socket and ratchet to make sure the hex bolts have enough threads in the holes to get a good grip. The center bolt should be positioned on the end of the shaft inside the partially unthreaded nut on the steering shaft. If all is ligned up properly, begin tightening the center bolt of the puller. Once it is snug, slowly keep tightening until the wheel "breaks" free. You will probably get a loud pop/snap and will more than likely jump thinking you've broken something. But it's OK. That's just what happens when the wheel breaks free. Remove the puller and the hex bolts securing it to the steering wheel.



BEFORE you remove the wheel, place it in the center position. You may need to insert your key and turn to the ACC position to free up the wheel if it is locked. Once the wheel is in the centered position, look closely where the splines of the wheel and shaft meet. You can use some colored nail polish to make a mark on both pieces (wheel and shaft) to make sure they go back into the same positions in the splined fitting. Honestly, this is not necessary, because I've tested what the wheel looks like when it's moved one spline off and it's very obvious. Once you're satisfied you'll be able to re-align the wheel to the shaft, finish removing the 22mm nut and lock washer. The wheel should easily pull straight out. Carefully pull the wheel away from the steering shaft being careful to push the disconnected airbag/horn harnesses through the opening at the top of the wheel. There is a black harness connector on the back of the wheel that will need to be unplugged. Simply press in on the release tab and pull the connector off. Set the steering wheel aside in a safe place.



Next, remove the 2 piece column shroud. Begin by unscrewing the 3 Phillips head screws with a #2 Phillips head screwdriver. There are two on the front of the column cover and one on the bottom.



Once the screws are removed, gently pry the 2 halves of the column shroud apart. You should be ablt to do this without any tools. Once they are separated, carefully pull the bottom shroud off of the column. It's much easier to remove if the telescopic adjustment of the wheel is pulled towards you. Carefully pry the lower shroud around the ignition switch and remove the lower shroud. The upper shroud should remain in place and does not need to be completely removed.


The strange contraption you find yourself looking at now, is the clock spring. It's what keeps the wiring going to all your steering wheel controls from tangling/stretching/breaking, etc when you turn the steering wheel. There are 2 wire harness connectors on the bottom/backside of the clock spring. One is a white connector that you simply push in a release tab and pull the connector off. The other one is yellow, and a little trickier. Using a small flat blade screwdriver, push the release mechanism on the bottom of the connector towards the front of the vehicle while pulling on the body of the connector.



The clockspring is held on by 3 plastic "hooks", one on each side and one on top. Gently pry the hooks of the clockspring off of the Multiswitch assembly.





Remove the clockspring from the steering column and set aside in a safe place. If you accidently rotate the mechanism when you're removing it, don't worry. It's very easy to re-align it if you've spun it around.


This should finally expose the Multiswitch we've been after. There are 2 white wire harness connectors on the back of the Multiswitch. Simply push in the release tab and pull the connector body off for both connections.



The Multiswitch is held on by 2 phillips head screws that need to be removed with your #2 phillips head screwdriver.



Next, pull the Multiswitch off of the steering shaft. Since my replacement Multiswitch didn't come with the windshield wiper stalk, I had to remove that from my old Multiswitch and install it on the new one. Simply insert a small flat blade screwdriver and put pressure against a release tab and the wiper stalk assembly shoud slide straight out. It simply snaps into the new Multiswitch.





Re-installation should be done by reversing the above procedures. When you get to the point that you are installing the lockwasher and 22mm nut to hold the steering wheel to the shaft, you need to tighten that with an accurate torque wrench. Kia's Service Manual gives a range of 29-36 ft/lbs to tighten it to.



If you happen to have played with your clockspring, follow these steps to make sure it's aligned properly:


Snap the clockspring back into place and reconnect the wire harness connectors on the back of the clockspring. Rotate the front of the clockspring clockwise until it stops. Then rotate it back counter-clockwise 2 complete revolutions. The red indicator inside the clockspring should be visible in the window. This is the center position for the clockspring. It's very important to re-install your clockspring in the centered position, otherwise you run the risk of breaking it or the wiring when turning the wheel. It's much easier to re-align than it sounds. Don't be scared!


Once you've re-assembled your steering wheel and airbag module and have checked to make sure every connector has been seated, go ahead and reconnect the negative battery terminal. If you've followed all the steps everything should function as it should, and you should not get any warning lights or codes related to the airbag system.



 

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Discussion Starter #3
I need to edit the first post!! The 10 minute limit was not enough to get my formatting and all of my picture links in place. This is very discouraging. Last night I typed EVERYTHING and inserted pictures and it logged me out because it took so long to create the post. Today I created it and saved it in increments so I didn't lose everything again. And now I can't edit it to finish it. I'm not going to do this again...Took way too much time.
 

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im so mad sharkracing got to you faster ive sent emails on trying to buy the switch and harness they responded me that they can sell just those two to me and i emailed back asking how i can purchase and its been more than a week and no response! so my question to you how the **** did you get to buy only the two? sorry just a lil pissed off

p.s. they told me they sell the optimas switch just havent put it up on their site
 

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Discussion Starter #6
im so mad sharkracing got to you faster ive sent emails on trying to buy the switch and harness they responded me that they can sell just those two to me and i emailed back asking how i can purchase and its been more than a week and no response! so my question to you how the **** did you get to buy only the two? sorry just a lil pissed off

p.s. they told me they sell the optimas switch just havent put it up on their site
Sorry to hear about this. I actually picked up my switch from another forum member. I was able to contact "boogyman" from Sharkracing on the Kia-parts.com forums for the price for just the switch. He replied pretty fast to my PM on those forums. I asked them for an unaltered switch, since I didn't plan on using the wiring that they add to the switch.

If only I could get my first post in this thread unlocked for editing, I can finish my formatting and pictures. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #10
How long did it take you to do this?
Took me about an hour and that was stopping to document the job with pictures. I probably could have done it in a half hour without the pictures. Now if only I can get my post re-opened for editing, I can make it much easier to read and add more pictures.
 

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Limbo...

Hey Robbtemp,

I PM'ed the site admin but he has not replied yet. Hang in there - I think there is a solution coming.

JC
 

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Discussion Starter #13
did you use a sonata harness or what harness did you use?
I'm actually installing the missing wires with correct pins that go between the connectors at the Multiswitch and the BCM. So I guess you can say that I'm fabricating my own OEM harness. I have the harness made up, just have to install it.

I'm also running the missing wire(s) for the auto-lamp feature and hoping it will give me that feature as well. That all depends on if the photo sensor is there and wired to the BCM.
 

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I just got my Shark Racing foglight kit with the multi-switch. Were you ever able to get the AUTO feature to work?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I installed the missing wire from the multiswitch to the BCM, but unfortunately there must be something else not present in the LX in the auto lamp circuit (either the photo sensor and/or wires to the sensor). However, by installing the missing wire, when the headlights are switched to auto it just behaves as if they are on. At least I don't have a dead spot on the switch.

So in a sense, the auto feature is working as far as the BCM goes, there is just never a + voltage signal from a photocell that is detecting light to shut the lamps off. I have contemplated installing my own photocell, but it hasn't really bothered me enough to do it.
 

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I am considering ordering the fog light kit from Shark is the wiring harness complete ready to install or do i have to buy extra parts.
When they say free shipping does that mean that there is no customs fees or duty fees?
Great job providing installation instructions.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
^^ Dipper, I don't have any personal hands on experience with the Shark Racing Kit since I fabricated my own OEM harness, but everything I have seen about it leads me to believe it's a fairly complete kit. Also, I have never had to pay any extra customs or duty fees on the several things I have ordered from Chinese and Korean vendors.

Good luck!
 

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Any way you can add what you did for the wiring to keep it in line with the factory setup? I have been reading through the schematics and have come up with a theory on paper, but I am curious to know how close it is to yours that is working in the real world.

From what I am reading:
-Multiswitch receives a negative input signal on Pin 5.
-Multiswitch sends this negative signal out (pin 6) to the BCM (Pin 3) when the switch is turned on.
-Then the BCM sends a signal through the "B Can" (data) to the IPS Control Module and Instrument Cluster.
-This in turn sends power (12v) through Pins 14/15 from IPS to each respective fog light and illuminate the dash fog light indicator lamp.

If I am way off, can you please give a little direction?

Thanks
 

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Just received the kit from shark racing. To my surprise, the multi-switch arrived with two wires protruding from the inside, and running about 6 feet long. One wire is red, and it soldered to a 15a fuse, and the other cable is blue and has black tape on the end, almost looks like it can be spliced without any wire cutting. The instructions say to run the 15a fuse to the power outlet.
How do i run these wires from the steering wheel to the fuse box, without having them tangle, and what is the blue wire for?
I can post pics later if it will help.
 
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