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New member from fl..NOT YET IN THE KIA FAMILY NEED HELP

1301 Views 10 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  toptobottom
Hey guys. I wanted to come straight to the source. Next week im looking to purchase a optima EX with the technology plus package. I came here to here it straight from the camels mouth. I more or less want to know if my expectations are realistic as far as what I can get this car for. Most list MSRP at 24,xxx We all know that's nowhere near the best they can do.With dealer incentives and rebates I was wondering if you guys think it would be possible to get that number down to roughly 17,400 I of course would then have a down payment of 3,500 cash to throw on top. I've seen a tech plus package reach about 18,xxx and im figuring since the 2016s are hitting the lot and its the end of the year and will be mid way through the month they may be willing to accommodate and move unload a vehicle.


As I stated im not yet an Optima owner but I will be shortly.More or less just trying to find the best possible deal I can find. I APPRECIATE ANY HELP, POINTERS, TIPS, ANYTHING THAT HELPED YOU WITH YOUR PURCHASE. Thank you in advance.
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Absolutely positively not going to happen unless that EX with Prem/Tech package has a blown motor or somebody's bowels let loose over the whole interior during a test drive. Let me guess - you saw some Dealer Ads. Call them and tell them you know a guy on the Optima Forums that'll take 10 of them at that $18,000.00 price and where should he send a wire transfer.

Let's do some realistic #'s

EX (no package)
Base MSRP $24,340
Destination $ 825
Sticker $25,160

EX (Premium pack only)
Prem. Pack add $ 3,595
Sticker $28,755

EX (Premium & Tech pack)
Prem,&Tech add $ 5,995
Sticker $ 31,155

Let's work with the EX Base Model (no packages or optional goodies added) to see what you could possibly get that for. We're talking barebones without mats or anything which you'd probably never find.

As a general rule of thumb you should be in a position to knock it down 12% off the MSRP if you hunker down and fight them hard. Let's say you drive an ass kicking deal at 15% reduction. Remember no incentives yet.

$25,160.00 X .85 (15%) = $21,386.00

Now let's throw in your incentive

$21,386.00 - $2,500.00(cash back) = 18,886.00

Remember this is a vehicle without packages

Are you sure that wasn't a LX with the Convenience Plus package?

$22,665
$ 1,875 Convenience Plus pack
$24,540 Sticker

$24,540 X .85 = $20,859 - $2,500 (cash back) = $18,359

So you see you're not living reality. Dealers use lure (sucker) Ads that have all incentives applied that you will not qualify for. Some will have in fine print "***w/$2,500.00 down" or "***Base Model". Most of the time those cars don't exist as they'll say it's sold already but come in to look at others or was a recent Demo they may have sold already at a substantial discount.
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Yeah dealers use that bait and switch bullshit all the time. Hop on truecar to see what others have paid around you.
Im paying about 31k for mine its an EX white with convenience and tech package. Your numbers are not realistic.
One thing to consider, if you're this close to the end of the year, you're probably going to get a better deal if you can wait till near the end of the year. Some of the best deals can be had either at the end of the year, or when the new models hit the showroom, which is generally around August as the dealerships are trying to get last year's models out. As for what tobottom suggested, I can't say I'd agree. I say go ahead and set a low price goal, and let the dealership slowly meet you somewhere between where you are comfortable paying, and they are comfortable selling. Remember, the MSRP is the amount the manufacturer suggests the car be sold for. It's not set in stone, so I'd go in with as low a price as you can. Also, don't be afraid to shop the Optima's competitors. You'll get a better idea of how much the car is worth by doing apples to apples comparisons.
As for what tobottom suggested, I can't say I'd agree. I say go ahead and set a low price goal, and let the dealership slowly meet you somewhere between where you are comfortable paying, and they are comfortable selling. Remember, the MSRP is the amount the manufacturer suggests the car be sold for. It's not set in stone, so I'd go in with as low a price as you can.
C'mon TXOSXLU, you have to be realistic or the Sales Managers will see your not close to being serious and will let you float on your merry cloud out the driveway. Once you come back to them with your tail between your legs they're more likely to play you to no end.

The OP is talking figures of $17,400 and then his $3,500 deposit for a loaded EX. It's obvious he's lookin' for no more than a $14,000.00 loan as his affordability. It's false hopes and that's why he came to us looking for the real deal.

---------- Post added at 08:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:51 PM ----------

Im paying about 31k for mine its an EX white with convenience and tech package. Your numbers are not realistic.
Wait that's the Sticker - not what your paying I hope!
My apologies! I did mean LX. -____- I was approved for 25k for a loan I'm just not wanting to pay that much. I mainly wanted a base Optima with tinted windows, all weather mats, and self tinting rearview, but seeing as it comes with a back up camera I figured I should go for it. I have seen the LX with convenience plus get really close to 18 Thats why I was hoping to squeeze a wee bit more out of them. True car is saying between 20-22k near me.
C'mon TXOSXLU, you have to be realistic or the Sales Managers will see your not close to being serious and will let you float on your merry cloud out the driveway. Once you come back to them with your tail between your legs they're more likely to play you to no end.

The OP is talking figures of $17,400 and then his $3,500 deposit for a loaded EX. It's obvious he's lookin' for no more than a $14,000.00 loan as his affordability. It's false hopes and that's why he came to us looking for the real deal.

---------- Post added at 08:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:51 PM ----------

Wait that's the Sticker - not what your paying I hope!
It's a buyer's market. if a guy wants to make a sale, then he has to earn the sale. Lets put everything into perspective, if he's buying a 2015 or later, it's already 1 model year old. Here are a few listings on Cars.com for 2015s and 2014s Used 2014 Kia Optima LX - in 75017 Area - on Cars.com The lowest price is $7995, and the highest price is $26,549. You mean to tell me that he should go into the dealership and pay what you think he should pay just to give the sales manager a break? This is the part where I ask YOU to give US a break. Even if he's going for a 2016, considering how the exterior styling has proved somewhat of a disappointment to most of us on here, I'd hate to get into a 1st year build of ANY vehicle. I don't know how the styling of the new car will age, but my opinion of it (and we know what opinions are like) is that it won't is that it won't have the allure that the previous generations of Optimas had. That being said, I still imagine many Kia dealerships are really trying to get as many '15s and '14s off the lot.

My apologies! I did mean LX. -____- I was approved for 25k for a loan I'm just not wanting to pay that much. I mainly wanted a base Optima with tinted windows, all weather mats, and self tinting rearview, but seeing as it comes with a back up camera I figured I should go for it. I have seen the LX with convenience plus get really close to 18 Thats why I was hoping to squeeze a wee bit more out of them. True car is saying between 20-22k near me.
You should check out that link that I posted above and look for one that's optioned out like you'd want. It'll at least give you an idea of what to expect via depreciation. You can also bring that up with the sales associate. ****, I'd show them a few of the cars listed and ask them to justify their inflated price. Here's something to ask yourself, if you brought this car back into the dealership looking to trade the vehicle in, how much would you expect the dealership to pay you? Now I understand that the dealership has overhead to pay, and that the salesmen aren't exactly doing what they do for charity, but how much would you expect a dealership to pay you for that car if it was a trade-in (less any costs that the dealership would have to pass on to you like Advertising, Licensing, etc)? That's around the amount I'd be looking at IMO.

---------- Post added at 12:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:57 AM ----------

2014 Kia Optima SXL Turbo, $16,900 - Cars.com Here's a theft recovered '14 SXL for only $16,900 (Was curious to see what my car was going for).
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@sr71blkbrd - No problem! It helps to bring the figures in your initial post into a little bit better perspective.

I just looked up an LX with the following which lists at probably the highest end of the offerings.

$24,975.00 Sticker

Base Trim - Including
*Ask dealer for details/ Convenience Plus Package $1,600.00
- UVO eServices w/ Telematics
- Rear Camera Display
- Power Adjustable Driver's Seat
- Auto-Dimming Rear View Mirror
- Laminated Front Door Windows
Rear Bumper Applique $75.00
Cargo Mat $95.00
Carpeted Floor Mats $130.00
Cargo Net $50.00
Cargo Tray $80.00
Door Sill Applique $80.00
Mud Guards $95.00
Wheel Locks $55.00

So let's work with this if you can find one in your area.

Real good deal - $24,975 X .88 (12%) = $21.978 - $2,500 (Cashback offer) = $19,478.00
Hard to get deal - $24,975 X .85 (15%) = $21,229 - $2,500 (Cashback offer) = $18,728.00

The last one is doable but you'd need to be real patient to take time in getting this kind of deal. Right now the new models just rolled in to many of the Dealers and usually they are stuck up the A-hole with LX leftovers. This is to your advantage assuming you work it and don't rush. Also, the upcoming Holidays are a major advantage along with just before end of month quota. November 30th (end of month) aligns really well with the Thanksgiving holiday and may be your ticket to drive out of a Dealers lot in your brand new LX.

What you need to do is search Dealer inventory in a 150 mile radius finding LX models that are to your liking as far as color and extras. Find Inventory here http://www.kia.com/us/en/dealers/inventory?series=optima&year=2015&trim=2456683 by selecting area code 1st then choose type in your 150 radius, next, use the TRIM (LX) filter on the left. This will give you all the Dealers inventory, making it easier to differentiate the better models. Be aware this inventory list may not be up to date so you need to open the Dealer list to the left side of the webpage and then Google each Dealer so you can go directly to their website for accurate inventory search.

This is where you need to copy paste or write down Price and VIN#'s because you need to bargain for a specific vehicle so they can't pull a switch on you later when you get a firm final quote. Note the premium ones like listed above and keep those for an endgame which I'll explain shortly. What you want to do is actually shop models with slightly lesser options and get the lowest quotes those. Once you're at a standstill and no one wants to go any lower (remember this takes time to get to this point), then you see the few prospects you're going to be cutting a deal with, so this is where you pull out the Ace and ask to step up to the better equipped (higher priced) model on their lot but for the same quoted price of the previously bargained for model. That's why I mentioned to use the loaded Trim package for the end game.

Now in order to do all this, you're NOT going to have much of a chance doing any of the above if you go shop at the Dealer face-to-face with the salesperson. They will rake you over the coals, wear you down and emotions will make you at least an extra $1,000.00 poorer. You need to do your entire purchase through the Internet Sales Manager. The Dealers can drive better bargains this way because there is no commission having to get paid out to the Showroom Sales guy/gal. Plus the fact that they can't pull the cat and mouse game of saying let's see if my manager will go that low (meanwhile he's sipping coffee near the Service Dept. counter).

Instead of this post dragging on further and further, I'm going to PM an internet dialogue that you need to establish and stick to firmly so your quotes are apples to apples and there's no misunderstanding or confusions while trying to find your target goal of $18,500 for a loaded LX.

@TXOSXLU I was basing my suggestions on the fact that he's looking to get a good deal on a NEW fully warranted leftover 2015 at a bargain price. Your introducing Cars.com with used vehicle price figures and older model years. If that's the route he's willing to go then it changes my direction and price discussion or leverage.
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@TXOSXLU I was basing my suggestions on the fact that he's looking to get a good deal on a NEW fully warranted leftover 2015 at a bargain price. Your introducing Cars.com with used vehicle price figures and older model years. If that's the route he's willing to go then it changes my direction and price discussion or leverage.

I actually posted the Cars.com site so that he can see how much money he can expect his car to depreciate after only a year. This should give him even more insight on how much he'll want to spend, knowing how much the car will be worth after 1 year or less. Some of those cars on there are also 2015s, so the price of those cars after only a few miles is also significant IMO.
I actually posted the Cars.com site so that he can see how much money he can expect his car to depreciate after only a year. This should give him even more insight on how much he'll want to spend, knowing how much the car will be worth after 1 year or less. Some of those cars on there are also 2015s, so the price of those cars after only a few miles is also significant IMO.
Yup I see where your going with this now! I totally agree with you on this and sometimes it's a good idea for some that are buying an expensive car know all of the options if they're biting off more than they may be able to chew. This may be the case as well here.

If it is the case then he may be better off going with a Certified Pre-Owned as I'd be a bit reluctant to buy at random and possibly get a wounded soldier that someone turned in because of problems that would not go away like some have had on this Forum.
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