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K5 Optima Store Vendor
Santa Fe/350z
Joined
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726 Posts
Discussion Starter #1


Is proud to present to the Optima community

The ADD W1 Version 3 Baffled Oil Catch Can


(BUY NOW)


Description:

Oil Catch can's catch the oil and moisture in the blow-by gas that causes carbon and sludge build-up in the intake system and engine. It's advanced design assures the best performance and keeps the engine clean even under hard driving conditions.

ADD W1 V3 Catch Can's come with a beautiful exterior redesign over the previous V2 model, sporting a gloss black finish with customizable colored ring inserts. The new design comes with a twister baffled filter which provides the best in oil and moisture filtration, by keeping the air longer! This ensures all the oil drops to the bottom of the can. The newly developed twister baffled filter is one of a kind and the only air filtration system on the market!

Easy to install, and easy to service. Highly recommended for tuned vehicles!

Features and Specifications:

ADD W1 V3 special engineered OCC
Revolutionary designed internal baffle "Triple Twister" chamber filter system
Closed loop system internal baffled Twister chamber filter Catch
Made from Lightweight 6061 Aircraft Aluminum
Fully customizable color insert rings available in 8 different colors
Prolong and protect the life of your engine
Baffled interior for the best collection of oil
Available in Red Black Blue Silver Gunmetal Purple Gold Green
Limited Lifetime warranty


Package Includes:

1x V3 Baffled Oil Catch Can
2x 9mm fitting
2x 15mm fitting
1x 15mm hose
Necessary Bracket & Screws
Internal baffle "Triple Twister" chamber filter catch
Installation instructions
*Optional vehicle specific catch can bracket
*Optional custom mounting bracket fits the 2011-2018 Kia Optima & 2011-2018 Hyundai Sonata models only


Vehicle Applications:

All vehicles
















Thank You For Looking!
 

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Registered
2013 Kia Optima
Joined
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362 Posts
Do you have any pictures of the interior baffle system, or perhaps a diagram demonstrating what sets this new model apart from the previous version?

A comparative analysis of contaminants captured per iteration of this product would also be most helpful.
 

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K5 Optima Store Vendor
Santa Fe/350z
Joined
·
726 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Do you have any pictures of the interior baffle system, or perhaps a diagram demonstrating what sets this new model apart from the previous version?

A comparative analysis of contaminants captured per iteration of this product would also be most helpful.
I can see about getting a photo of the new internal baffling system for you!

As for a comparative analysis, that's pretty in depth and many variables at stake that could affect the outcome. However, we are just a distributor that resells this product but would happily reach out to the manufacturer to see what sort of testing they have done related to the new design.
 

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Registered
2017 Kia Optima Hybrid
Joined
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70 Posts
2017 Optima Hybrid Install

My 2017 Optima Hybrid with 2.0L engine has the PCV hose on rear or transmission/driver side of engine. The hybrid is pretty congested on both sides/front of engine so IMO the firewall is the best place for the catch can on a hybrid. I can easily access the catch can dipstick or remove the base to drain it. I fabricated a bracket for the catch can and mounted it using an existing stud on firewall. The firewall studs have plastic covers on them that are easily removed.

I purchased the ADD W1 V3 catch can from K5 Optima Store. I chose the Gunmetal color for the decorative ring; other colors are available. The can is high quality. Nice machining, fit and anodized finish. It passed a vacuum test, no leaks.

The kit is supplied with short lengths of hose so they are not long enough for a firewall install. I learned 5/8" PCV hose is scarce at parts stores, so get it in hand before attempting a firewall install. I used ~ 3 feet of 5/8" PCV hose and 2.5 feet of 3/8" PCV hose.

For a clean install, I used Gates shrink clamps on the catch can 3/8" and 5/8" fittings. No worries, connections are secure with the shrink clamps. Points off though, I did not have 5/8" Tech Flex like I used on the 3/8" hose.

I removed the foam cover from the short OEM PCV hose and installed it on the new 5/8" intake hose at the intake side. There is a metal pipe and plastic air filter tube to route around so it offers chafe protection.
 

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Registered
2018 KIA Optima SWP
Joined
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279 Posts
2018 Optima S 2.4L OCC Install

This project was pretty easy. Most of my time was used for getting the bracket just right as it's a tight fit.
Tools you'll need are:
10mm Socket
8mm Socket
19mm Open End Wrench
8mm Open End Wrench
5mm Allen
4mm Allen
2.5mm Allen
Duckbill Pliers
Loctite Thread Sealent ( Optional )
Loctite Blue Thread Locker ( Optional )
Cold Shrink Fusion Tape
Small Table
Sweat Shorts, no Buckles or Rings or Watches. Don't want to scratch the Paint you know.

Remove the Top Engine Cover.

I laid everything out. I used the Duckbills to squeeze the Tabs on the Hose Clamps to remove the Original PCV to Intake Manifold Hose. Original Hose is Pictured on the Table.



Remove the Bolt with the 10mm Socket, insert the OCC Bracket Between the top Plastic and the ( I think it's a ) metal Bracket under it ( Where the bolt came out of ). Re-insert the Bolt to test Fit. Bolt at the Bottom of the PIC.


Next: I installed the 3/8th Nipple in the Inlet ( Left ) Port and the 5/8th Nipple in the Outlet ( Right ) port. The instruction recommended Teflon Tape but I used Loctite Thread Sealant as the Nipple Port Adapters are straight Cut Threads and not NPT Pipe Threads.

I then used the 19mm Wrench to check the tightness of the PVC valve, gotto be carfull as the PCV is Plastic.

Next: I removed the Bolt and OCC Bracket. Mounted ( Loosely ) the OCC to the OCC Bracket with One Short Allen Screw and Nut from the Kit with Blue Loctite Thread Locker, make sure the Nut is towards the OCC. Then I mounted the OCC Assembly in the Engine Bay with the Supplied Long Allen Screw and ADD Washer ( Loosely ) with Blue Loctite Thread Locker. At this point, I had to re-clock the OCC on the Sub-Bracket One Screw Hole Clockwise to Face the ports towards the Intake Manifold. I then Wrapped the Windshield Washer Filler Neck and the upper OCC with Cold Shrink Fusion Tape just to be on the safe Side.

Next: I aligned the OCC where I wanted it to be. I wanted a more Vertical Can as if I used the Two short Screws, the can would have been Canted about 30 Degrees from Vertical. I tightened the Long Mounting Screw with the 5mm Allen. I then tightened the Short Allen Screw with the 4mm Allen and 8mm Open End Wrench.

Next: Hose Installation, I installed the 5/8ths Hose first. I had to cut to length the Hose, slip on the supplied Worm Gear Clamps, Installed Hose and tightened the Clamps. I then proceeded with the 3/8th Hose. First I test fitted the Hose and it was the exact length and no cutting need then I reused the Foam Outer Hose Protector and slid it over the the 3/8th Hose, it was a bear but it will go on. Then I installed the 3/8th Hose with the supplied Clamps.



Another Angle:


Close up:


Install Top Engine Cover, Installation Complete.


I then Ran the Engine for Ten Minutes and no Leaks. The I took the Car on a 40 Mile Hike, no Leaks or Engine Light.
 

·
Your K5 Optima Vendor
2017 Tesla Model X
Joined
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28,410 Posts
My 2017 Optima Hybrid with 2.0L engine has the PCV hose on rear or transmission/driver side of engine. The hybrid is pretty congested on both sides/front of engine so IMO the firewall is the best place for the catch can on a hybrid. I can easily access the catch can dipstick or remove the base to drain it. I fabricated a bracket for the catch can and mounted it using an existing stud on firewall. The firewall studs have plastic covers on them that are easily removed.

I purchased the ADD W1 V3 catch can from K5 Optima Store. I chose the Gunmetal color for the decorative ring; other colors are available. The can is high quality. Nice machining, fit and anodized finish. It passed a vacuum test, no leaks.

The kit is supplied with short lengths of hose so they are not long enough for a firewall install. I learned 5/8" PCV hose is scarce at parts stores, so get it in hand before attempting a firewall install. I used ~ 3 feet of 5/8" PCV hose and 2.5 feet of 3/8" PCV hose.

For a clean install, I used Gates shrink clamps on the catch can 3/8" and 5/8" fittings. No worries, connections are secure with the shrink clamps. Points off though, I did not have 5/8" Tech Flex like I used on the 3/8" hose.

I removed the foam cover from the short OEM PCV hose and installed it on the new 5/8" intake hose at the intake side. There is a metal pipe and plastic air filter tube to route around so it offers chafe protection.
This project was pretty easy. Most of my time was used for getting the bracket just right as it's a tight fit.
Tools you'll need are:
10mm Socket
8mm Socket
19mm Open End Wrench
8mm Open End Wrench
5mm Allen
4mm Allen
2.5mm Allen
Duckbill Pliers
Loctite Thread Sealent ( Optional )
Loctite Blue Thread Locker ( Optional )
Cold Shrink Fusion Tape
Small Table
Sweat Shorts, no Buckles or Rings or Watches. Don't want to scratch the Paint you know.

Remove the Top Engine Cover.

I laid everything out. I used the Duckbills to squeeze the Tabs on the Hose Clamps to remove the Original PCV to Intake Manifold Hose. Original Hose is Pictured on the Table.



Remove the Bolt with the 10mm Socket, insert the OCC Bracket Between the top Plastic and the ( I think it's a ) metal Bracket under it ( Where the bolt came out of ). Re-insert the Bolt to test Fit. Bolt at the Bottom of the PIC.


Next: I installed the 3/8th Nipple in the Inlet ( Left ) Port and the 5/8th Nipple in the Outlet ( Right ) port. The instruction recommended Teflon Tape but I used Loctite Thread Sealant as the Nipple Port Adapters are straight Cut Threads and not NPT Pipe Threads.

I then used the 19mm Wrench to check the tightness of the PVC valve, gotto be carfull as the PCV is Plastic.

Next: I removed the Bolt and OCC Bracket. Mounted ( Loosely ) the OCC to the OCC Bracket with One Short Allen Screw and Nut from the Kit with Blue Loctite Thread Locker, make sure the Nut is towards the OCC. Then I mounted the OCC Assembly in the Engine Bay with the Supplied Long Allen Screw and ADD Washer ( Loosely ) with Blue Loctite Thread Locker. At this point, I had to re-clock the OCC on the Sub-Bracket One Screw Hole Clockwise to Face the ports towards the Intake Manifold. I then Wrapped the Windshield Washer Filler Neck and the upper OCC with Cold Shrink Fusion Tape just to be on the safe Side.

Next: I aligned the OCC where I wanted it to be. I wanted a more Vertical Can as if I used the Two short Screws, the can would have been Canted about 30 Degrees from Vertical. I tightened the Long Mounting Screw with the 5mm Allen. I then tightened the Short Allen Screw with the 4mm Allen and 8mm Open End Wrench.

Next: Hose Installation, I installed the 5/8ths Hose first. I had to cut to length the Hose, slip on the supplied Worm Gear Clamps, Installed Hose and tightened the Clamps. I then proceeded with the 3/8th Hose. First I test fitted the Hose and it was the exact length and no cutting need then I reused the Foam Outer Hose Protector and slid it over the the 3/8th Hose, it was a bear but it will go on. Then I installed the 3/8th Hose with the supplied Clamps.



Another Angle:


Close up:


Install Top Engine Cover, Installation Complete.


I then Ran the Engine for Ten Minutes and no Leaks. The I took the Car on a 40 Mile Hike, no Leaks or Engine Light.
Thank you both so much for taking the time to put these posts together. I think this will be very beneficial for others doing the same install.

We appreciate both of your business with us, and you two taking the time and effort used to put together this info! :)
 
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