[Ericglo]

Just got a good deal off of ebay on a 2016 LX with 46k. Actually I didn't buy it on ebay. The listing ended and I called the lady up the next day and made an offer. It was a bankruptcy auction. I ended up paying $7700.

It had a check engine light, cracked tail light and broken window regulator.

The check engine light was P0304. I moved the ignition coils and spark plugs over one cylinder. The code went away.

I need to buy a regulator. In the meantime, I put some screws into the white cam behind the motor to keep the passenger window in place.

 

[Ericglo]

Oh and I am in Hollywood Florida.

 

[Turbonut]

Welcome and hopefully you got a good deal on the car, time will tell. The 304 is a strange code on a vehicle with 46k, but if the exchange worked good to go.

 

[K5 Optima Store]

Welcome to the Optima Forums.

Congrats on getting a steal of a deal on it.

Let us know if we can help you personalize it a bit to your liking.

-David

 

[Ericglo]

Welcome and hopefully you got a good deal on the car, time will tell. The 304 is a strange code on a vehicle with 46k, but if the exchange worked good to go.

Thanks.
I am not to worried about the P0304 code. It hasn't come back since clearing it. I did a lot of reading on the carbon build up and OCC over the weekend. I plan on attacking that in the future. I would guess that may have contributed to the engine misfire code.

Welcome to the Optima Forums.

Congrats on getting a steal of a deal on it.

Let us know if we can help you personalize it a bit to your liking.

-David

Thanks.

I must confess that when the tag office said that will be $1002 that I thought about relisting it.

I am now at close to $9k, so I am going with the basics. I wasn't really looking that hard for a new vehicle a week ago. I read the GDI Tech thread about cleaning the intake valves and putting a OCC on the car. I am still reading up on it and your ADD W1 V3.3 looks real nice. How does it compare to the Elite E2-X?

Here is the ebay listing.

eBay

 

[K5 Optima Store]

Thanks.

I must confess that when the tag office said that will be $1002 that I thought about relisting it.

I am now at close to $9k, so I am going with the basics. I wasn't really looking that hard for a new vehicle a week ago. I read the GDI Tech thread about cleaning the intake valves and putting a OCC on the car. I am still reading up on it and your ADD W1 V3.3 looks real nice. How does it compare to the Elite E2-X?

Here is the ebay listing.

eBay

Welcome and oh wow that is pricey for the tags, was it past due and you just had to pay to bring it current?

Yeah adding an oil catch can to these GDI engines is a MUST.

Actually, I had never heard of them before, so I went and looked them up, and surprisingly enough, the pricing is almost identical when comparing their vehicle specific kits to our own.

Now they don't seem to have a vehicle specific setup for a Kia Optima like we do, but a very comparable price for the ones they do sell when compared to the one we sell.

Here is our kit complete with check valves, all required hoses, brackets, and filter: (NEW) ADD W1 V3.3 - Baffled Dual Inlet Oil Catch Can Kit

 

[Turbonut]

From what I see, the ADD had 2 inlets 1 outlet, E2 1 inlet 2 outlets.
As far as I'm concerned, better off with just the run of the mill catch can, 1 inlet 1 outlet installed on the PCV valve side.

 

[K5 Optima Store]

From what I see, the ADD had 2 inlets 1 outlet, E2 1 inlet 2 outlets.
As far as I'm concerned, better off with just the run of the mill catch can, 1 inlet 1 outlet installed on the PCV valve side.

The ADD W1 V3 single inlet catch can is also a great catch can as well.

However, since these engines can see oil blowby from both the PCV & CCV sides of the engine, it's best to have a can that collects the blowby from both sides.

I like to use the analogy of comparing the catch cans to car insurance. In most states out there, only basic liability insurance is usually required by law.

However, most people feel more comfortable having full coverage, vs just liability insurance, since they know they are fully protected.

Having a single inlet and single outlet catch can is better than having no catch can, the same as driving with liability insurance is better than driving with no insurance.

But if you can cover the cost of full coverage, or the dual inlet V3.3 catch can, it will be better than just having half the protection with a single inlet and single outlet setup.

Everyone is 100% entitled to their own opinion and can choose whatever they think is best for them, this is just what I think makes the most sense...

 

[Turbonut]

On our 2.0T with 172,000 miles, I inspected the fresh air OEM hose and no residue at all, so don't believe, unless a track only car, there is any need to address that side. Actually williamhood would also back me up on the clean side. I certainly could go on about the hose routings, but for the time being I'll refrain.

 

[K5 Optima Store]

On our 2.0T with 172,000 miles, I inspected the fresh air OEM hose and no residue at all, so don't believe, unless a track only car, there is any need to address that side. I certainly could go on about the hose routings, but for the time being I'll refrain.

Didn't you just recently install that catch can like in the last 30 days or so?

Keep in mind that in different climates and different temperatures, the catch can will collect more or less contents depending on location/whether.

Also, I wouldn't say that it's only beneficial for a track car, but if you always drive casually and never really put the car into boost hardly at all, then you're probably right about that.

 

[Turbonut]

No, I have it in the garage. Don't like the idea of putting a filter on the valve cover, illegal and the idea of a T in the hose from the OCC to the fresh air intake tube is not to my liking as there is no guarantee that the particular hose mentioned would be 100% clean coming from the can. It certainly won't contain, or hopefully it wouldn't contain any condensation or oil mist, but guarantee it won't be 100% clean.
Was going to plug one of the outlets and use it as an in/out can, but can't find a metric plug for the can and not fond of using the screw in tube and blocking that off, too ricey.

 

[Ericglo]

Welcome and oh wow that is pricey for the tags, was it past due and you just had to pay to bring it current?

Yeah adding an oil catch can to these GDI engines is a MUST.

Actually, I had never heard of them before, so I went and looked them up, and surprisingly enough, the pricing is almost identical when comparing their vehicle specific kits to our own.

Now they don't seem to have a vehicle specific setup for a Kia Optima like we do, but a very comparable price for the ones they do sell when compared to the one we sell.

Here is our kit complete with check valves, all required hoses, brackets, and filter: (NEW) ADD W1 V3.3 - Baffled Dual Inlet Oil Catch Can Kit

It was $500 plus for tax and the rest for tag/title.

GDI Tech discussed the Elite in his thread. Soli talked about his UPR.

Both of those have one inlet and two outlets whereas yours is the reverse. What is the difference?

 

[Turbonut]

It was $500 plus for tax and the rest for tag/title.

GDI Tech discussed the Elite in his thread. Soli talked about his UPR.

Both of those have one inlet and two outlets whereas yours is the reverse. What is the difference?

Whatever you decide to purchase, just be cautious of that OEM fresh air hose supplying fresh air to the engine through the VC. Don't want anything to compromise that function.

 

[K5 Optima Store]

It was $500 plus for tax and the rest for tag/title.

GDI Tech discussed the Elite in his thread. Soli talked about his UPR.

Both of those have one inlet and two outlets whereas yours is the reverse. What is the difference?

Ahh ok, up there but you still got a great deal, so worth it.

I could not speak on other setups for different vehicles.

The ADD W1 is not our product and it was not designed by us.

However, when being engineered specifically for these vehicles, it was designed to perform in the best way.

Since the vehicle has oil blowby on both the PCV and CCV sides of the engine, it made sense to have (2) inlets to collect oil from both, and (1) outlet to drain both.

Hope that helps, feel free to call here to discuss more in detail: (213) 785-7512

 

[tonester]

Whatever you decide to purchase, just be cautious of that OEM fresh air hose supplying fresh air to the engine through the VC. Don't want anything to compromise that function.

To be fair, that fresh air hose may not always be supplying fresh air to the engine since it also works in reverse in venting blowby and whatnot back into the throttle body via the air intake tube since depending on the presence or absence of vacuum blowby isn't always leaving the valve cover via the PCV valve.