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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I built a custom gauge pod for my steering wheel cover this past weekend. I surprised myself with the clean result. Thought I'd share how I did it.

This was using DIRECT flat black paint - I have added better finishing instructions to have a nicer PRO finish on your POD




Parts to purchase:
#1 2" SLIP fit 90* PVC Pipe elbows or joints (<2.00 each at Home Depot and Lowes both carry the same brand fittings)
#2 Small quart of All Purpose primer - OR Stix waterborne bonding primer (Urethane acrylic interior/exterior primer)
#3 Can of self etching exhaust paint flat black from Harbor Freight
#4 Package of JB weld 20min epoxy
#5 Lock Nuts/Bolts/Washers - I used M5x15x1.0 hex head bolt with two lock nuts per bolt and 2 washers per bolt
#6 Sand paper two grits, one fine for final finishing and one heavier grit to remove material as needed
#7 Super glue or similar

Tools Used:- Dremel + Larger size cutoff wheel + Course Sanding bit + Diamond cutting / engraving bit
- Safety Glasses
- Gloves
- Sharpie
- Packing tape
- Aluminum Foil and Plastic Knife ;) You'll see


Ok - Lets get started


Step 1 - Making the U pod:
- By removing 15mm off of each 90* piece - shorten the overall width of the unit.
- Use tape to hold your alignment and spot glue together
- Remove all lettering and unwanted marks in PVC finish
- Cut hole in center on the bottom side for feeding wires/signal lines
- Drill holes large enough to later install bolts from the inside
- Remove Steering column upper cover - Test fit position of gauge pod - Mark cut feed hole in column cover to match pod holes
- Clean with soapy water/dry



Finishing the Gauge Pod:
- Install Bolts, one on each side with HEX inside Pod threads down using DAB of Epoxy round the hex head under side
- Apply Epoxy to secure bolts from bottom of POD such that bolts cannot move or rattle when epoxy dries
- Epoxy the 90* joint you glued earlier for rigidity overall
- Allow 30 mins for Epoxy to set
- Lightly sand with fine grit the entire exterior surface/Soapy water clean/dry
- Cover ID of gauge surface so primer doesn't over spray on inside
- Apply Plastic Primer - follow directions per primer/dry
- Test fit/mark bolt hole location on steering cover - Drill out holes
- Paint exterior in light even coats by hanging from rope tied to bolts/Dry
- Install Pod to Steering Cover (from bottom up) Lock nut/washer/Steering Cover/Washer/Lock Nut
- Snap Steering Cover into car - Install your Gauges


Pictures:

Types of PVC pipes that fit with different designs


Pieces joined and test fitted on cover


Hole cut through cover for signal line routing


First coating of Flat paint without the Primer (not recommended)


2:30AM - Began this project around 5pm - But even in the dark, I was happy with the results. This was the first finished view I had from the drivers seat


Then I turned the Light on to see how bad the non-primer finish came out


Snapped a few pictures from the sides to show people how it looks overall

Passenger View


Outside driver's door view


 

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Man, you are sick and I like that! :D

On my side, I'm still working on my Torque Pro and Nexus setup for the gauges. I just completed a virtual gauge to estimate the turbine speed under boost based on the compressor map TD04 19T...This thing turns around 150 000 RPM at WOT.

My next gauge will be an estimate of the air temperature at the turbo outlet in real time...:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Man, you are sick and I like that! :D

On my side, I'm still working on my Torque Pro and Nexus setup for the gauges. I just completed a virtual gauge to estimate the turbine speed under boost based on the compressor map TD04 19T...This thing turns around 150 000 RPM at WOT.

My next gauge will be an estimate of the air temperature at the turbo outlet in real time...:rolleyes:
Oh, nice - you know how to write custom PID's I guess.

I haven't found the turbine speed spec in Hyundai adv very helpful. The compressor outlet would be pretty useful realtime if it were an actual.

I just had boost bumped up to just under 24psi and I'm using water/methanol to cool the IAT's back down post intercooler. I would imagine that info live would be useful on the dyno as we spin the wheel deeper into it's "In-Efficiency" range ;)
 

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Oh, nice - you know how to write custom PID's I guess.

I haven't found the turbine speed spec in Hyundai adv very helpful. The compressor outlet would be pretty useful realtime if it were an actual.

I just had boost bumped up to just under 24psi and I'm using water/methanol to cool the IAT's back down post intercooler. I would imagine that info live would be useful on the dyno as we spin the wheel deeper into it's "In-Efficiency" range ;)
For now, I only use one mathematical equation that I can enter directly within Torque Pro. Since I'm a software engineer, I assume that I would be able design a more accurate model if I decide to code a plugin directly...

I started small to see if the turbo spin is that useful. Nevertheless, I spend more than 8 hours on this project to understand all the components (filter drop, IC, drop, altitude, humidity, temperature, volumetric flow rate and mass flow rate)...

Where's RedDamnHot? He's help would have been appreciated...but I decided to figure it out myself since he did not answer my personal message...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yea, I miss RedHotDamn!! myself. I've PM'ed him a few times hoping he would pop back up!

I'm sure he would love seeing some of the progress we've made. And he's local enough to meet up, thought we'd wind up at the track one day together.

Guys like him are very useful to people like me. I have idea's, but the functional knowledge is another thing.
 
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