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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys and gals,

I have a stock 2019 Kia Optima and absolutely hate the wheel gap. I was looking at getting lowering springs but don’t want to spend $150 for an inch of drop. I ended up finding the D2 racing pro series springs which is the only spring with a 1.6” drop front and rear.

I contacted support here but they said anything that low I’m going to have rubbing issues however when I browse around here and fitment site people have huge and wide wheels with the D2 springs and have no issues.

Anyways, I was planning on buying the D2 springs with the truhart struts while running Kias upgraded 215/55/R17 wheel package does anyone foresee any rubbing or bottoming out issues?

also how do the D2 coils ride? The description says they ride smooth so that true? Not looking for something stiff and bouncey I have kids that ride with me.

Thanks,
George

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First let me say this, not certain as to the tire size you have currently, but assuming it's a 16" with 205/65-16 (26.5") tires and upgrading to the 215/55-17 (26.3"), the tire size is actually smaller in diameter, so suggest 225/55-17 (26.7").

Not much on just installing springs on oem shocks/struts, but also not much on lowering a vehicle even with coilovers as with FWD the axles change angles and hence possible vibration. Personally, I'd save up for coil-overs, but here's a thread from the past about just springs:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
First let me say this, not certain as to the tire size you have currently, but assuming it's a 16" with 205/65-16 (26.5") tires and upgrading to the 215/55-17 (26.3"), the tire size is actually smaller in diameter, so suggest 225/55-17 (26.7").

Not much on just installing springs on oem shocks/struts, but also not much on lowering a vehicle even with coilovers as with FWD the axles change angles and hence possible vibration. Personally, I'd save up for coil-overs, but here's a thread from the past about just springs:
thanks for the reply although I’m not quite sure I follow your logic with the coil over. It wouldn’t matter if I went with a spring and strut combo vs a coil over since both will lower the car and making changes to the geometry of the axles and other hardware. I feel that with a drop of 1.6” all the way around I don’t really need to worry too much about that.

What I am worried about is tire rub and or a stiff harsh ride. Will the spring, strut, and wheel combo cause rubbing or harsh riding issues?

thanks!
 

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Coil-overs can be adjusted, as long as you purchase adjustable units, and then you can maximize the settings to best suit your needs,s but using lowering springs on OEM shocks/struts not the best combination, but many do. Couldn't tell you about clearance issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Coil-overs can be adjusted, as long as you purchase adjustable units, and then you can maximize the settings to best suit your needs,s but using lowering springs on OEM shocks/struts not the best combination, but many do. Couldn't tell you about clearance issues.
I don’t think you understood what I said in my first post. So the TruHart struts are for lowering springs. They have a shorter stroke length and were made to pair with lowering springs so there’s no need for coilovers unless o want the capability to adjust my suspension.
 

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I'm not good at eyeballing distance measurements based on photos but to me that looks like a bit more than a 2" gap.

FWIW the gap between the lower part of the wheel well lip and the topmost part of my tire is ~2" (give or take a quarter-inch) on my bone-stock suspension 2018 SXL with OEM 235-45-18 tires.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
it’s actually pretty close to two inches. The front is a little ore and the rear is a little less than 2”. The lowest drop spring I could find was the D2 at 1.6” of drop. The support here said anything more than 1.3” drop would cause rubbing issues. I just don’t see how.
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I don’t think you understood what I said in my first post. So the TruHart struts are for lowering springs. They have a shorter stroke length and were made to pair with lowering springs so there’s no need for coilovers unless o want the capability to adjust my suspension.
Gotcha, just read too fast.
 

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George, I would really recommend going with the D2 Coilovers instead of the D2 springs and aftermarket struts and shocks.

Several members of the community have mentioned that they felt the car got a little lower in height after replacing only the struts and shocks.

The great thing about coilovers, in addition to the fact that you can raise and lower the height as you see fit, is that they also offer dampening adjustment.

D2 Coilovers offer more damping control options than any other brand of coilover on the market for the Optima/Sonata with 36 - way damping & rebound adjustability.

Therefore, you can adjust the damping to be softer or stiffer as you see fit, allowing you to dial in the perfect comfort level.

We also have them on sale on our website right now for about $55 off and you can find them below:
D2 Racing RS Series Coilovers - K5 Optima Store

Let me know if you have any questions at all about these.
 

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Heres a pic for reference. My 2016 SX is on Truhart Struts/Eibach Kinetic springs. 2 finger gap front and back. Wouldn't want it any lower.
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Discussion Starter #14
George, I would really recommend going with the D2 Coilovers instead of the D2 springs and aftermarket struts and shocks.

Several members of the community have mentioned that they felt the car got a little lower in height after replacing only the struts and shocks.

The great thing about coilovers, in addition to the fact that you can raise and lower the height as you see fit, is that they also offer dampening adjustment.

D2 Coilovers offer more damping control options than any other brand of coilover on the market for the Optima/Sonata with 36 - way damping & rebound adjustability.

Therefore, you can adjust the damping to be softer or stiffer as you see fit, allowing you to dial in the perfect comfort level.

We also have them on sale on our website right now for about $55 off and you can find them below:
D2 Racing RS Series Coilovers - K5 Optima Store

Let me know if you have any questions at all about these.
Can you explain what you mean when you say “they felt the car got a little lower in height after replacing only the struts and shocks”?
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
So here’s the car that I’ve been looking at that has the perfect stance to me. If you read the info he’s using D2 lowering springs and has HUGE wheels but he says there is no rubbing or scrubbing issues and didn’t need to trim anything. So if my wheels are pretty much stock why would I have issues?

sorry guys not trying to be an ass just trying to get a better understand on why he’s able to do it but I would have issues.
The cool thing about that site is everyone has exactly what their car is set up with stance wise and they tell you if they have issues or not or needed to make any mods to get the fitment they wants.

Thanks!


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The ride must be really bone-jarring stiff as heck if he's claiming no rubbing/scrubbing with that setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The ride must be really bone-jarring stiff as heck if he's claiming no rubbing/scrubbing with that setup.
You would think but the description D2 gives is that “reducing ride height while still maintaining exceptional ride quality through a progressive rate spring”

And then if you look of progressive spring rate vs liner. Progressive it the best type for every day driving.
 

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I suppose I could give him the benefit of the doubt since he doesn't mention (AFAICT) what struts (OEM or aftermarket) are in play there; if I were to take his description strictly at face value, I'd be somewhat skeptical that he's still getting near-same ride quality since the vehicle has already lost some suspension travel on the compression end if he's riding on just the lowered springs. Why do you think some folks go the extra mile and use drop spindles when lowering their trucks? To retain as much suspension travel as possible...

Not trying to argue that there are no merits or advantages when it comes to using progressive vs. non-progressive lowering springs but there is NO way you can convince me that a lowered vehicle riding on just progressive springs rides (not to be confused with "handles") just as comfortably as a vehicle riding on bone-stock suspension; I suppose describing "exceptional ride quality" can be a bit subjective from person to person. Not saying that a vehicle riding on progressive springs can't absorb bumps/dips/potholes just as well as a bone-stock one, but you'd gotta be a bit desensitized to try to argue that it feels the same either way...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I suppose I could give him the benefit of the doubt since he doesn't mention (AFAICT) what struts (OEM or aftermarket) are in play there; if I were to take his description strictly at face value, I'd be somewhat skeptical that he's still getting near-same ride quality since the vehicle has already lost some suspension travel on the compression end if he's riding on just the lowered springs. Why do you think some folks go the extra mile and use drop spindles when lowering their trucks? To retain as much suspension travel as possible...

Not trying to argue that there are no merits or advantages when it comes to using progressive vs. non-progressive lowering springs but there is NO way you can convince me that a lowered vehicle riding on just progressive springs rides (not to be confused with "handles") just as comfortably as a vehicle riding on bone-stock suspension; I suppose describing "exceptional ride quality" can be a bit subjective from person to person. Not saying that a vehicle riding on progressive springs can't absorb bumps/dips/potholes just as well as a bone-stock one, but you'd gotta be a bit desensitized to try to argue that it feels the same either way...
I agree with you 100%. I’m not looking for the exact same ride as stock however I was just wanting something not a stiff if possible. My biggest concern was the rubbing issue.
 
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