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Thanks man, I reopened my DRL's this morning and got them lined up better. I must have missed the part in your instructions where you said to make sure you have an LED light centered on each of the metal plates. I just sort of crammed them in the best I could, and a few were centered but most were not.

Looks much better now, though there is one lens in the middle that is just slightly dimmer that the rest, but this is only when it's veiwed from one certain angle, and may be due to the design of the lens, because I have an LED very well-centered on that particular metal plate.
I didnt really care about centering the LEDs to the metal plates b/c I knew those LED lenses are not really lined up to center of those plates. What I did was stuck the LEDs on the plates then attached the lens to see which needed to be moved to be line up with the lens. All of my LEDs are lined up with DRL lens and they are BRIGHT! Brighter than v-led 13watt LED fogs so now I keep my fogs off. Looks better I think with DRL with headlights on only.
 

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Yeah, tried to do this today and have failed miserably. Baked them for 6 minutes at 225....couldn't get them open. The tried at 225 for another 8 minutes. Nothing. Bumped it up to 235 for 8 minutes -- nothing. According to Loman4ec, baking these SOBs is the hardest part; I'd agree. I can't tell if the tabs are important or not. If they are, how do I push down on 6 at the same time and pull apart? Is there a YT video of the baking/opening process? Maybe I'm doing something wrong. If I'm struggling on this part, I'm pretty sure that my lack of electrical experience will render my being able to swap the lights near impossible. I'm ready to rock, I just could really use some detailed guidance on the bake/open process. Anyone out there done this and can help? TIA

**EDIT -- Go figure, right after I post this I decided to give it one more shot. I bumped it up to 275 for 10 minutes, and that made it possible. It would help if people knew that while the light is hot, you can use a flathead screwdriver to stick underneath the clear tabs and "pry" the grey part over the tab, enabling the light to come apart. Then you can use the screwdriver to pry apart all around the whole housing, too. This is no easy task, and it's messy as $hit.
 

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A lot of ovens aren't very accurate temperature-wise. Might be a good idea to stick a thermometer in there to see how hot it actually is in there.

Prying them apart is kinda scary the first time you do it. I broke the "ear" off one of the tabs. Fortunately, mine had plenty of gooey glue in there, so I'm sure the seal is fine.

If you think prying them apart is bad, I thought lining up the lights with the lenses was much more difficult, especially when you're worried about bending the LED strip too far and ruining it. I took mt DRL's apart and put them back together 3 times before I was happy with the alignment of the LED's with the lenses. If you're not careful, you can end up with dim spots on one or more of the 12 separate DRL lenses.

Word to the wise, make sure you power the DRL's up and look at them in full bright sunlight to make sure you're happy with the alignment before you install them in your car. I didn't and had to take the bumper cover off a second time and bake open the lights again. Don't make this same mistake.
 

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A lot of ovens aren't very accurate temperature-wise. Might be a good idea to stick a thermometer in there to see how hot it actually is in there.

Prying them apart is kinda scary the first time you do it. I broke the "ear" off one of the tabs. Fortunately, mine had plenty of gooey glue in there, so I'm sure the seal is fine.

If you think prying them apart is bad, I thought lining up the lights with the lenses was much more difficult, especially when you're worried about bending the LED strip too far and ruining it. I took mt DRL's apart and put them back together 3 times before I was happy with the alignment of the LED's with the lenses. If you're not careful, you can end up with dim spots on one or more of the 12 separate DRL lenses.

Word to the wise, make sure you power the DRL's up and look at them in full bright sunlight to make sure you're happy with the alignment before you install them in your car. I didn't and had to take the bumper cover off a second time and bake open the lights again. Don't make this same mistake.
Great suggestion. I'll be sure to power them up before I seal it all up. Do the lights not get centered exactly in the middle of the metal plate, equidistant from the plastic dots? Also, rather than curling the strip against itself (since there's more LED lights than plates), couldn't you start at the bottom of the DRL with the very first LED strip light, and then the leftover lights at the end just put behind the housing that go through the slot you cut with the dremel? Would that not work, or would the heat be too much?
 

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08/2012 ROTM
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Discussion Starter #27
Great suggestion. I'll be sure to power them up before I seal it all up. Do the lights not get centered exactly in the middle of the metal plate, equidistant from the plastic dots? Also, rather than curling the strip against itself (since there's more LED lights than plates), couldn't you start at the bottom of the DRL with the very first LED strip light, and then the leftover lights at the end just put behind the housing that go through the slot you cut with the dremel? Would that not work, or would the heat be too much?
In order to center them all you have to fold the strip up a bit and you only end up with 1 left over.

I marked the metal plate with a line where the stock LEDs were to make aligning them easier, I didn't have to redo any of the ones I have done (3 sets).
 

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In order to center them all you have to fold the strip up a bit and you only end up with 1 left over.

I marked the metal plate with a line where the stock LEDs were to make aligning them easier, I didn't have to redo any of the ones I have done (3 sets).
Thanks for chiming in here, much appreciated. I'm getting excited at doing your mod and getting these to be perfect. I'm on the dremel wire brush step right now, hoping to have the first DRL done tonight. In the spots where the strips fold up against itself, is that because the light spacing wouldn't allow it to sit flat against the plastic and have an LED right in the middle of a metal plate? If the LED strip just stays flat across the whole plastic piece, you'd four or five leftover lights at the end, but they wouldn't be even on the metal plate....is that right? I'm technically inept but wanted to give this mod a shot, just like to have all my ducks in a row before I tear off that 3M backing cover.

Also, I bolded your response that would have been handy to know before I ripped off the old light strip :p . Possibly a step add to the OP?

p.s. congrats on ROTM ;)
 

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08/2012 ROTM
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Discussion Starter #29
Thanks for chiming in here, much appreciated. I'm getting excited at doing your mod and getting these to be perfect. I'm on the dremel wire brush step right now, hoping to have the first DRL done tonight. In the spots where the strips fold up against itself, is that because the light spacing wouldn't allow it to sit flat against the plastic and have an LED right in the middle of a metal plate? If the LED strip just stays flat across the whole plastic piece, you'd four or five leftover lights at the end, but they wouldn't be even on the metal plate....is that right? I'm technically inept but wanted to give this mod a shot, just like to have all my ducks in a row before I tear off that 3M backing cover.

Also, I bolded your response that would have been handy to know before I ripped off the old light strip :p . Possibly a step add to the OP?

p.s. congrats on ROTM ;)
Added the step after I typed that response, sorry about that just forgot.

They will be way off, before you peel the backing off try it and see how it works, youll understand why you have to fold. You alsy have to take into a account the space that the lenses take up.
 

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Added the step after I typed that response, sorry about that just forgot.

They will be way off, before you peel the backing off try it and see how it works, youll understand why you have to fold. You alsy have to take into a account the space that the lenses take up.
No apologies needed. Glad you're providing support to us lame-wads that have no technical prowess but still like to follow in the footsteps of greatness =)
 

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Got my first DRL done tonight! Woo-hoo! Thanks homebrwd for making the DIY; I was able to print it out with enlarged pictures and it helped immensely (sp?).

My one suggestion: when you get to this point right here, stop:


What I'm going to do on my second DRL is to make a little black mark with a marker on the grey housing precisely where each of the lenses hovers over on the metal plates. It's odd, because most of the lenses don't lines up directly over the middle of the plates, they're closer to the outside edges. Maybe yours are centered, maybe not, but this is what I will do to make the adhesion of the LEDs less of a pain on the 2nd go-around. Just a suggestion for novices like me!

**UPDTAE 8/8/2012: Did my second DRL last night in record time :). Much easier to have those marker marks on the LED housing, and boosting my heat to 260 for 13 minutes did the trick first time. I look forward to getting these installed soon. Time to visit the grandparents so I can use the reciprocating saw :).
 

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Got my first DRL done tonight! Woo-hoo! Thanks homebrwd for making the DIY; I was able to print it out with enlarged pictures and it helped immensely (sp?).

My one suggestion: when you get to this point right here, stop:


What I'm going to do on my second DRL is to make a little black mark with a marker on the grey housing precisely where each of the lenses hovers over on the metal plates. It's odd, because most of the lenses don't lines up directly over the middle of the plates, they're closer to the outside edges. Maybe yours are centered, maybe not, but this is what I will do to make the adhesion of the LEDs less of a pain on the 2nd go-around. Just a suggestion for novices like me!
Yeah, I noticed the two pins coming off the lenses lining up toward the outside of the plate as well. That's what screwed me up so badly the first time I installed the LED's. I just "assumed" that as long as I stuck one LED on the center of each metal plate, I would be fine. But a couple LED's in the middle of the string were far enough off that there were dim spots there and that just bugged the heck out of me. It looked like a big smile with missing teeth in the middle. :D

Congrats for taking your time on this and doing it right. It's not something you wanna have to do twice.
 

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Got my first DRL done tonight! Woo-hoo! Thanks homebrwd for making the DIY; I was able to print it out with enlarged pictures and it helped immensely (sp?).

My one suggestion: when you get to this point right here, stop:


What I'm going to do on my second DRL is to make a little black mark with a marker on the grey housing precisely where each of the lenses hovers over on the metal plates. It's odd, because most of the lenses don't lines up directly over the middle of the plates, they're closer to the outside edges. Maybe yours are centered, maybe not, but this is what I will do to make the adhesion of the LEDs less of a pain on the 2nd go-around. Just a suggestion for novices like me!

**UPDTAE 8/8/2012: Did my second DRL last night in record time :). Much easier to have those marker marks on the LED housing, and boosting my heat to 260 for 13 minutes did the trick first time. I look forward to getting these installed soon. Time to visit the grandparents so I can use the reciprocating saw :).
I hope it turns out ok. Just make sure you clean all of the chrome and the plastic cover. BTW, I was in your area (east Bay) last weekend and completed my install...finally. The DRL lights are so much brighter!!!! I bought another pair before the project and I now have a spare set and am doing the cool white strip as the ones on my car are natural white. In my opinion, this is an easy upgrade. Oh, just to mention, I have been in contact with superbrightled and discussed the LED strip and they dont produce any heat that could damage the LED. As everyone stated, there will be other LEDs not used and they are on the side of the shroud/funnel to project the light. You could obscured the light with a black sharpie or place a piece of electrical tape over the LED and there will be no issue. I have the email from the tech at superbrightled that mentioned this.
As a suggestion, sometimes the heat, not from LED but in areas like AZ where the heat could cause the back side 3M adhesive to move around I went ahead and superglued the sides after I placed the shroud/funnel over the leds. That way, it was centered and in no way going to move.
 

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OK, after I installed my 5050 LEDs into the DRL assembly, I went down to the local dealership to see how bright the SXL's were, WOW, the stock SXL's are bright....I dont know why with the same part that our lights would only operate at 50% and not their full potential?? Anyways, the intensity of the stock SXL matched the intensity of my modded 5050s'. The only difference is that mine is more blueish white and the SXL is more purple tinted. ENjoy the pics IMAG0397.jpg IMAG0398.jpg IMAG0399.jpg
 

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Nice pics! Your DRLs look amazing. Great job!

I still have the dim ones.
Thanks. I am going to try to see whats in the stock wiring of an SXL that gives their lights the ability to dual stage the brightness. As mentioned, they have the same part number. I have another spare set and am going to try the 3528 cool white strips that are rated at 6K if I cant the stock ones to light up as bright as the SXL's.
 

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yeah 5050 leds natural white... tell you what big difference from oem, especially during the day and really brite at night. good mod to do.
 
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