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I drove to Phoenix last weekend and had a friend help me do mine we followed your tutorial and they look great He did the whole extra wiring and soldering thing as well. Now my HID's and LED tails are in I'm planning on going back this comming weekend.
 

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12/2012 ROTM
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Did mine today somewhat based off the tutorial. However, I did not need to remove the bumper support and in an effort to not add any additional wiring simply ran the wire through the side vent. All in all about three hours by myself...the most difficult part getting that tail lights to release. Thanks for the write-up as I had it with me every step of the way just I chose a different route in wiring. Once I get it all cleaned up I will post some updated photos..
 

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My Bumper LEDs should be here in the next few days. I'll be preparing to do this mod this weekend.

One question I have. Could you just ground the Black wires from the Bumper LEDs to the chassis, instead of taping into the left and right tail light wiring? I'm just trying to avoid striping another factory wire, if it isn't really necessary.
 

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12/2012 ROTM
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418 Posts
My Bumper LEDs should be here in the next few days. I'll be preparing to do this mod this weekend.

One question I have. Could you just ground the Black wires from the Bumper LEDs to the chassis, instead of taping into the left and right tail light wiring? I'm just trying to avoid striping another factory wire, if it isn't really necessary.
I will probably catch some flack here, but I didn't tap in the harness at all. Not really comfortable on a new car especially when I am one of those people while it is still under warranty to make sure everything gets fixed. I just shoved the wires in the back of the harness and zip tied it to the wire bundle. This way I can all ways remove it like it was never there. Maybe when it is out of warranty I will go back and hard-wire it, but for now it works for me.
 

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I was actually going to:

  1. release the factory wire pin from the plastic OEM connector
  2. remove the metal crimp pin from the wire
  3. crimp the factory wire and bumper LED wire together with same crimp pin or a new crimp pin (if I can find the same pins from a local electronics supply store)
  4. I may slide heat shrink tubing over both wires just past the pin for re-enforcement.
  5. then snap the wire pin back into the factory plastic OEM connector
  6. I've done it this way before. It looks cleaner and I'm not cutting/stripping the factory wiring
 

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Discussion Starter #27
^That is the best way to do it. I never really do it that way as it takes a few more minutes and can be a pain sometimes to get the pins to release from the plastic receptacles. Sometimes finding the pins at an electronic store or even web site can be a challenge. Also it makes no difference on a warranty situation as they will still consider it a modified harness.
 

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^That is the best way to do it. I never really do it that way as it takes a few more minutes and can be a pain sometimes to get the pins to release from the plastic receptacles. Sometimes finding the pins at an electronic store or even web site can be a challenge. Also it makes no difference on a warranty situation as they will still consider it a modified harness.
Please fill me in guys....what situation would this "modified harness" get you in hot water? I mean these are LEDS, no heat there, and maybe if the wiring itself got screwed up, you would have to pay to replace that, but....what else could they even say? That the wiring of these LEDs put off the ECU and led to a blown motor? :laugh:

I really wonder what horror stories are even out there about this...let the tales from the dark side commence
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Please fill me in guys....what situation would this "modified harness" get you in hot water?
Nothing like that (engine failure)... but for example, if your factory tail lights failed, I bet that 9 times out of 10 a dealership will try to say it's because you modified the harness. It's shiesty... but it happens.
 

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The main brake lights do not flash, it's just an optical illusion with the camera (hz).

Pretty much followed the instructions on this thread.

Where I differed:


  • Wrapped the bumper LED wires with yellow electrical tape.
  • I used 18 ga. 6 conductor wire with a 6 pin Molex connectors to connect to the Bumper LED wires.
  • Drilled a ¼" hole next to the bumper sensor hole and used a rubber grommet. Fished the 6 conductor wire through the grommet into the trunk.
  • I used another section of the 6 conductor wire and used two of the six wires to tap into the Green wire from the third brake light pigtail, above the factory loom. Two wires were for the Brake Modulator. Soldered the wires and used heat shrink tubing. The Third Brake light Green wire was the only wire cut for this whole mod.
  • Installed the Brake Flash Modulator, so the the Third Brake light and the Bumper LEDs are modulated (the flash speed and duration length is adjustable).
  • I used a 8 position Terminal Block, crimp eyelets, and heat shrink tubing to wire everything together.
  • Used a dedicated common ground for the Bumper LEDs and Brake modulator. I didn't touch the Third Brake light ground wire.
  • I used the Brown wire from the Passenger side wire harness to turn both Bumper LEDs on when the parking lights are on.
I may add some relays so that the turn signal will activate the corresponding Bumper LED. Still not sure if I will do it, I will have to see if I like it or not.
 

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Your K5 Optima Vendor
Tesla Model X P100D
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Looks good man! Not sure if I'm really a fan of the pulsating when you hit the brakes. But awesome write up!
 

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That is why I used a Terminal block. I can easily move the wires around if I want to change the configuration.

I've got it set up where the bumper LEDs can be changed to: a standard Brake Light, as a modulated flash brake light (as it is currently configured), or as turn indicators (I've not completed the wiring for this). I just have to move the two Yellow Bumper LED wires to a different position on the block.

Going to see if this set up gets the tailgaters to back off from my arse during traffic.

A preliminary drawing I did of the wiring. I didn't follow my drawing, I made it much simpler. I didn't update the drawing. I'm just using the single 6 position Terminal Block. The wires, terminal block, modulator are in a small project box, placed in the trunk passenger side panel, near the amp.

 

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That is why I used a Terminal block. I can easily move the wires around if I want to change the configuration.

I've got it set up where the bumper LEDs can be changed to: a standard Brake Light, as a modulated flash brake light (as it is currently configured), or as turn indicators (I've not completed the wiring for this). I just have to move the two Yellow Bumper LED wires to a different position on the block.

Going to see if this set up gets the tailgaters to back off from my arse during traffic.

A preliminary drawing I did of the wiring. I didn't follow my drawing, I made it much simpler. I didn't update the drawing. I'm just using the single 6 position Terminal Block. The wires, terminal block, modulator are in a small project box, placed in the trunk passenger side panel, near the amp.




I had these installed by a local body shop and at the time of installation the manager said that the lights could either work to come on when I brake or they can flash when I have my turn signals activated. He said after taking a poll at the shop with the other workers, they all said that they like them working as turn signals vs brake lights (but at the end of the day, it's my choice) he installed to flash when I use my turn signals, but he said that if I wanted to have them work when I brake that he can switch them.
 

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I initially wired mine to act as turn signals, but soon realized I didn't like the look of having both a yellow and red signal, so I re-wired them to function as brake lights.
 

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itscoldoutdog
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alright gents, add another one to the list for this mod. :rockon:

big thanks to crystalworks for starting this, the led reflectors come with a pictorial exactly like the steps but its all in Korean so this thread is great...

Couple points:
- Removing the tail lights weren't hard at all for me. All you have to do is take a hammer and tap the bolt ends', not too hard but enough to get some movement...alternate thru all 3 and then when you are close just hit the one close to retaining clip(the rubber plug sticking out) with some more force and presto!, the tail light pops out. BE SURE TO HAVE YOUR NON-HAMMER HAND ON THE TAIL LIGHT OR YOU'LL SEND IT ON THE GROUND..In all I maybe spent 2-3 minutes total getting both lights popped out.

- Adding wire and running the wires through that existing grommet is nice but the added work is not necessary for a clean install... A much easier way is to do what Black SX said, run the wires through the side vents. The pics below show what that means... FYI, with this method you do not need to remove the bumper support, and you do not need extra wire, just what comes in the box.

- Taking the last point in consideration, whoever drilled into the metal to install a grommet on each side is CRAZY. No reason to do that, haha... to each his own..

Some crappy cell pics to prove it happened ;) .....

This is my hold-the-annoying-panels-out-of-the-way-while-soldering rig.


Inside shot of the led reflector harness tapped in to the factory tailight harness, then leading outside through the vent


Outside shot of the led harness through the vent



straight on the rear, looking sexy



angle of my rear, still sexy
 

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For everyone having an issue with wiring... why not just use a trailer hitch wire harness adapter and use the connector to connect up the lights? This way you are not compromising the integrity of the stock wiring and can disconnect the lights at any time if need be. I want to add the lights in place of the reflectors also but this is how I want to wire them up. here is one I found on eBay: Reese Trailer Lights Plug/Play Hitch Wiring Fits only 2012 Kia Optima all models | eBay
 

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Your K5 Optima Vendor
Tesla Model X P100D
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For everyone having an issue with wiring... why not just use a trailer hitch wire harness adapter and use the connector to connect up the lights? This way you are not compromising the integrity of the stock wiring and can disconnect the lights at any time if need be. I want to add the lights in place of the reflectors also but this is how I want to wire them up. here is one I found on eBay: Reese Trailer Lights Plug/Play Hitch Wiring Fits only 2012 Kia Optima all models | eBay
This looks like it would work great in theory, can anyone else who's done this mod comment on this? Looks simple enough!
 
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