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2014 kia Optima
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I had it installed in a ported enclosure with the LC2I and it honestly sounds great. I am getting a great sound now for bass and for now I can live with the door speakers as is. I just need to put something in to ptevent the vibrations I am hearing coming from the tail lights and trunk lid areas
cool got any pics of your install?
 

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2015 Optima Optima LX
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New guy here. Previous car audio manager/sales/installer...

Personally, heres what I would do:

If you are keeping the factory deck, I would upgrade to a 4 channel amplifier for your highs and a Class-D amplifier for your sub(s).

Your factory deck puts out VERY little power. Thats why your factory speakers sound so bad. Its the distortion. And they definitely cant put out the bass you so desire.

So, heres the setup: 4 channel amplifier powering your factory speakers. You would have to use the line-in for the signal input (meaning no RCA cables). You will lose fade/balance controls. But most people dont worry about that. You will have to run the speaker wires from the amplifier to the individual speakers. Not as hard as it sounds. You only want treble and midrange from these speakers. So set the crossover accordingly. Even the factory speakers will sound 20x better with proper amplification.

For the sub: You can actually use a line-in for the input here also. There are a few different ways to go. Class-D would be preferred. That means that it handles lower ohm loads (typically down to 2 ohms, some amps handle 1 ohm loads). I would go with a dual voice coil (DVC) sub. Best bang for your buck. Each voice coil will attach to one channel of the amp.

As far as sub sizes, it really depends on how loud you want to go and what kind of music. I go for music quality. A single 12" sub would be great. Alpine Type-R is my favorite by far. You can use a smaller enclosure for those. Make sure you get the right size box for what the sub calls for. And I dont really like ported boxes. They sound sloppy. I like the tight, accurate bass. And stay away from bandpass boxes. They are a joke.

You may want to think about getting a capacitor. It goes inline between your amp and the battery on the power wired. Helps prevent lights from dimming due to the power system being constrained.

Hope this helps. Any questions let me know.
 

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Oh boy.

Class d does not mean it can handle lower ohm loads. Class d means the amp uses a switching power supply. That's it.

Dual voice coils doesn't mean better bang for your buck either. You can have great subs that are single or dual voice coil. Dual voice coil can sometimes increase power handling which lowers power compression. Other times, as in an xbl2 motor design, they use the second coil to significantly lower distortion.


Ported boxes only sound sloppy if they are poorly built, and you don't have good eq capability. Ported boxes actually lower distortion near the tuning frequency by limiting cone excursion. Single reflex bandpass boxes limit distortion above the tuning frequency. And dual reflex bandpass boxes roll off distortion above the upper tuning frequency, and lower distortion near the lower tuning frequency. Band pass boxes are the ONLY way to filter out harmonic distortion.

And last but not least, capacitors are just a bandaid for a poor electrical system. Upgrade your big three. If you still have dimming issues, you need a bigger battery and a high output alternator.

I ran 1000 watts to my last sub, 125 watts to each midrange, and 70 watts to each tweeter in my last build. It was a 98 dodge neon with the stock alternator, cheapie walmart battery, and 0 gauge wires. And not even on the most bass heavy of music did my lights dim.
 

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2015 Optima Optima LX
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So a 2 channel amp bridged down to 1 ohm is just as good as a class D amp thats 1 ohm stable? Nope. Will overheat. I know that Class D amps are switching amplifiers. Thats what keeps them cooler. That coupled with the fact that the low pass filters are already integrated means they are perfect for running subs.

Almost every setup Ive done for someone with 1 sub was a DVC. Even 2 subs. Yes, I think its better bang for your buck. More installation and wiring options. And yes, there are single voice coil subs that are great. I never said that there werent.

Most ported boxes Ive seen/heard werent as good as a sealed box. That is my personal opinion. I hate the way they sound and dont think they are accurate. Sure, for a slight range of frequencies they are decent. Overall, I like sealed.

Most people putting systems in cars arent upgrading the entire electrical system. I understand what you are saying about a band aid fix. But some people just want better sound without upgrading all of it.

Ive put plenty of systems in Dodge Neons. Ive seen a LOT of lights dimming. Thats even using 0AWG wires.

So, oh boy... I do know what Im talking about :)
 

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I never said a 2 channel bridged to 1 ohm was better than a 1 ohm stable class d. I clarified what class d actually menat, because in your post, you very clearly said that class d was preferred and that that was because it meant it could handle lower ohm loads.

I still don't see how dvc is the best bang for your buck. Best bang for your buck, to me, means getting the sub and amplifier combination that does what you want for the least money. That could be svc or dvc, depending on what you want.

Ported boxes are actually more accurate if designed right. As said earlier, they lower distortion. If they are designed right, they will take the transfer function of the car it is installed in into account, and the peak in response will smoothly roll into the cabin gain. Furthermore, ported are on frequency range limited if they are purposely designed as one note wonders. One of the best subwoofer set ups I've ever heard was a 6th order bandpass box with two jbl 15"s. It was impressive enough to win a state sound quality championship in meca's extreme class, and would have been in th fight for a world championship had the transmission not failed.

Like I said, dead stock 12 year old alternator, 0ga big three, 0ga wire to the amps. No dimming. I could play skrillex at full tilt or the telarc 1812 recording and not once did the lights dim. Class ab on the front stage, class d on the sub. If your lights are dimming from music in a sound quality based build, something with the cars electrical is wrong.
 

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2015 Kia 2015 Kia Optima EX
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I sadly do not have any pictures. But the shop who did it mounted the LC2I behind the dash so it is right there, and the amp is mounted under the passenger seat.
 

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Like to say thanks to everyone having input thiessen90 questions,I too have same car 2015 optima ex minus Navigation non infinity.I’m stuck on which audio control to go with.I’m putting Infinity door 6.5,Rockford P3 12” 4 ohm dvc.I’m not sure the dsp to go with or built in with amp.Possibly only have one amp to push all.Someone said losing controls on radio?Thats what I’m trying to avoid not to do.If that’s the case the maybe after market dvd navigation.Any suggestions on new head unit apple car play
 
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