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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Guys and Gals. Need some help please:

I haven't been on the forums for quite some time as my '13 Optima SX Turbo is my wife's daily ride.

So bought it new in 2013, do all the oil changes maintenance etc. using Mobil 1 5W-30. Just hit 80,000 on the odometer.

1) Car started leaking oil from the back of the engine and dripping onto the passenger side transaxle. Searched and found a few threads about members having the Turbo oil line feed replaced (updated part) so not sure if that's what causing it as it's hard to see up near the top to see where the oil residue is. Did KIA make it an actual recall that I can reference with the dealer if it is indeed the turbo oil line feed that is leaking? Any other common things it might be up top and behind the engine?

2) I took if for a test drive and noticed that car is running really rough at idle and it seems to stumble/miss when I rev the engine in park. Don't remember it doing that but I haven't driven the car in a long time (like 20k miles) and it does have a "check engine light" on. Searching again I see things about spark plugs being fouled, and also cylinder #2 issues and also different plug choices (higher heat settings). Scared the heck out of me. I thought OEM plugs would be good for at least 100K but maybe I'm wrong? Should I check/replace the OEM plugs and is there an updated plug version I should be using?

3) It always used a tiny bit of oil during the first 5 years but I noticed the oil consumption has really gone up in the last 25k miles or so; about 1/4 quart every 1K or 1500 miles. Again searching it seems that KIA won't do anything now about oil consumption and will only warranty engine if it throws code and seizes? What else can I do about the oil consumption at this point?

Any advice/opinions would be greatly appreciated :)
 

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Haha...you are joking right? Read your manual about the spark plugs to begin with...45k max IIRC.
Based on that alone, good luck man...
 

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CEL-what's the code?
The plugs are to be changed 45,000 miles, but there have been people that have seen 100k miles even with the turbo, but if you're going to change plugs, get OEM plugs SILZKR8E9G.
Normally if a plug is missing at idle, it's going to miss all the time, so let's do some
checking first, especially with the CEL code as it will be helpful.

The leak is probably the oil feed line, but check the back of the engine under the valve cover to be certain that's not leaking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
CEL-what's the code?
The plugs are to be changed 45,000 miles, but there have been people that have seen 100k miles even with the turbo, but if you're going to change plugs, get OEM plugs SILZKR8E9G.
Normally if a plug is missing at idle, it's going to miss all the time, so let's do some
checking first, especially with the CEL code as it will be helpful.

The leak is probably the oil feed line, but check the back of the engine under the valve cover to be certain that's not leaking.
Thanks Turbonut! Always helpful as usual.

So I do not have a CEL which might be a good thing? It's just running real rough at idle and I can tell it's stumbling when I apply the gas. I've done so many threads here and many of the threads suggested using the NGK 1422 and that it was a superior plug. Isn't that a direct replacement for the Denso and I believe that KIA went to NGK plugs on the newer Optima Turbos?

I will try to check at the rear of the engine but dang it was tight back there. First time I checked I couldn't tell where it was coming from either at the top or from the bottom pan. If it is indeed the Turbo Oil Feed Line will my local dealer replace for free?
 

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When I had the valve cover leakage, the oil would be visible on the heat shield, so it's fairly easy to diagnose.

The heat shield has a snazzy pattern like checkered or textured, so it will hold the oil and make it easily visible. Just gotta lean over and look back there from the side/top
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
When I had the valve cover leakage, the oil would be visible on the heat shield, so it's fairly easy to diagnose.

The heat shield has a snazzy pattern like checkered or textured, so it will hold the oil and make it easily visible. Just gotta lean over and look back there from the side/top
Checked the heat shield from the top and it's clean. Hoping it is the oil feed line because I've seen many that had this repaired for free by KIA.

Have a set of new SILZKR8E9G s on order from my local O'Reilly's. Hoping to get those changed tomorrow and see if that fixes my stumbling/missing issue at least.

Have an appointment on Tuesday to check the oil leak.
 

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Thanks Turbonut! Always helpful as usual.

So I do not have a CEL which might be a good thing? It's just running real rough at idle and I can tell it's stumbling when I apply the gas. I've done so many threads here and many of the threads suggested using the NGK 1422 and that it was a superior plug. Isn't that a direct replacement for the Denso and I believe that KIA went to NGK plugs on the newer Optima Turbos?

I will try to check at the rear of the engine but dang it was tight back there. First time I checked I couldn't tell where it was coming from either at the top or from the bottom pan. If it is indeed the Turbo Oil Feed Line will my local dealer replace for free?
............and it does have a "check engine light" on.
Little confused about the CEL, but if it does come on have it scanned for code(s). I would think that if
a cylinder was miss-firing, the CEL would definitely be on as the ECU would notice the discrepancy
when that cylinder was compared to the others.

Don't want to get into the plug debate, but just wanted to recommend the OEM NGK plugs.

As far as looking behind the engine, a mirror and a strong light might help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Little confused about the CEL, but if it does come on have it scanned for code(s). I would think that if
a cylinder was miss-firing, the CEL would definitely be on as the ECU would notice the discrepancy
when that cylinder was compared to the others.

Don't want to get into the plug debate, but just wanted to recommend the OEM NGK plugs.

As far as looking behind the engine, a mirror and a strong light might help.
Thanks, noted Turbo. I'll have them check for any codes when I take it in.

Do you know the proper gap for the NGK SILZKR8E9G plugs off hand?
 

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They should be pre-gapped, but if you read some postings, you'll find what people say the gap should be is all over the place. Can't remember what the pre-gap on these plugs were when I did an install last year, but whatever it was I didn't change the gap and it's been fine. NGK has .036" listed.
 

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Pretty sure the gap is less than that due to the turbo, maybe .028? Not sure, may be in the owners manual also...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So bad news Turbo et' all:

Turns out that the leak is coming from the valve cover. KIA won't cover under warranty since the 10 years expired last September. The Service Manager put a request through for a one time "courtesty repair and the General Manager came back with "Customer Pays."

What a crock of SH***!!!!! After all the recalls and nickel and dime things that I've put with for the past 10+ years and KIA won't stand behind me. Service Manager said this would have been covered under the 10yr/100mi warranty. So 3.5 months out of the warrant and KIA tells me to pound sand.

So disgusted with this decision. So the dealer wants $834 for the valve cover replacement. Technician told me that the repair comes with mandatory fuel rail replacement. Said if I have it repaired outside of KIA and they don't replace the fuel rail and I get the CEL/CODE and/or Engine seizes, KIA won't replace the motor. This adds insult to injury.

Any of you have any advice as to what if anything I can do at this point?
 

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I've never heard that threat before, where a repair done outside of Kia without replacing the rail will void the warranty. There is no basis for that threat.

You can replace the valve cover gasket without having to replace the fuel rail. There is a comment in the service manual that you should replace the high pressure fuel line because it's metal and you might bend it.

But when I replaced my valve cover gasket I re-used my existing fuel line and it's fine still.

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I've never heard that threat before, where a repair done outside of Kia without replacing the rail will void the warranty. There is no basis for that threat.

You can replace the valve cover gasket without having to replace the fuel rail. There is a comment in the service manual that you should replace the high pressure fuel line because it's metal and you might bend it.

But when I replaced my valve cover gasket I re-used my existing fuel line and it's fine still.

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Thanks for the info King!

IDK I think doing the replacement is outside of my wheelhouse. The service manager stated that if the engine blows, the turbo unit is not replaced so the turbo could go after that with the new engine and again no coverage out of pocket about $3700. He proceeded to say that he's also seen catalytics go bad because of all the oil the engine burns and once again if that goes also out of pocket at $2700. I'm beginning to feel that I'm just going to be owning a ticking time bomb and many things can go bad resulting high out of pocket costs, with only the blown engine being covered.

This is making me wonder if I'm just better off selling it on the used market or trading toward something new?
 

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Your dealership is using scare-mongering tactics. They already used lies to try to get your money for unecessary repair costs. They might even be trying to get your whole car as a trade-in so they can sell it at a profit.

Kia dealerships have a bad reputation. Do you have an option to visit another dealership to ask them the cost to specifically just replace the valve cover gasket? Sometimes the dealership will treat you differently when you go in asking for a specific service. Unfortunately, if you ask for a diagnosis you seem like a target so they might pull more shenanigans.

Maybe a different dealership could find an explanation for the stumbling symptoms. My guess is something with fuel delivery, but who knows. If the current dealership is just shrugging their shoulders at the problem, go to another dealership or even a non-Kia mechanic maybe?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Thanks for the suggestions King. Just to clear up things I replaced the OEM plugs with the upgrade OEM NGK SILZKR8E9G and the car at startup/idle and revs was much much better. I think I solved the stumbling problem as it was old plugs with 80K on them.

I think I will call around to different KIA dealers and see if I can get a bit cheaper quote to replace just the valve cover. It's too bad I don't have a good local mechanic that I trust. :)
 

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I don't understand why it would cost that much to replace the valve cover gasket. Do you know how much of the price was labor vs parts?

Amazon sells the gasket kits for around $30-40. Plus you need to get a $5 tube of liquid gasket sealant that you put on the two seams on the passenger side. You probably don't need a new metal fuel line/pipe, but I don't think that would be too much of the cost.

I just don't understand why a mechanic would need 5+ hours of labor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Nope they didn't provide a detailed breakdown. That's all I received and it makes sense because I agree with you. 5+ hours for a valve cover. We're not working on a V10 rear engine Lamborghini for gosh sakes. I guess they're just trying to maximize revenue. In any case I'm not taking that bait...

You know I'm just now thinking about the past. I noticed the increased oil consumption and did some googling back in May last year. Saw several hits that a bad or failing PVC could cause that symptom. So I ordered what was supposed to be an OEM Kia PCV valve from Amazon.

I replaced the OEM PCV with the new one from Amazon but I don't think it was the OEM valve as was referred in the description. I threw the old one away and did not test it.


So now I'm wondering if the OEM was fine and the new one is actually not the exact replacement and somehow is malfunctioning causing the valve cover to leak, as that is what I read is a major symptom related to a bad PCV valve (crankcase pressure builds up and compromises the engine seals)? Seems coincidental that the valve cover would start leaking just 7 months after that PCV replacement?
 
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