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My wife's 2013 rear brakes were changed at a small auto repair shop. After she came home she said the EPB and auto hold light would not turn off. Illuminated yellow.
Does the car need to be programed or the lights cleared or did this shop screw something up? Should have not skipped taking it to the dealer......
 

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I don't know of any reset that needs to be done. There was two things that might need to be checked. Try the ebrake and see if it holds good, if it does then I'm not sure. But when the shoes are changed they need to retract the brake to get the new shoes in, that is done from the back and it then needs to be adjusted in after the new shoes are in. Also the back side has a connector that might be pulled loose. That is all I can think of.
 

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2016 Kia Optima SXL
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Yes, computer GDS app use involved per link.
Pls add your Year/Model to Signature as you'll get more relevant, helpful answers when people know what car you're asking about.
 

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Dumb question--if you don't engage the EPB--and yeah probably not the wisest thing to do when performing vehicle work which involves having any part of the vehicle off the ground--would the EPB issue even be a concern when replacing the rear brake pads? I'm guessing the need to put the EPB into service/maintenance mode is due to the EPB mechanism tied into the rear caliper piston somehow, and that simply retracting (i.e, pushing in) the caliper piston without putting the EPB into service mode may/could damage the EPB mechanism?
 

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I know this is an old post but you do not need anything fancy, go to oreillys and buy the brake cube and use that with a ratchet to spin it clock wise and push it in at the same time, just do not under any circumstances touch the electronic ebrake switch without the rotor or something to stop the piston from spinning its self all the way out.
I did this. It is spun all of the way out. Can't figure out how to get it back in. I guess this brake cube won't fit in there now since it is out too far.

Update - I used pliers and was able to spin it back in so I am good. The brake cube is just a convenience tool, but pliers work too - especially if all the way out. Once I screwed it back in part way, I used a conventional brake caliper compression tool to push it back in the rest of the way. On this caliper it is essential that you push it in straight, that is why the conventional screw in tool works and a c-clamp at all on an angle does not.
 

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Old post, but I changed my pads and rotors out last year with Power stop drilled and slotted rotors. For the rears with the EPB, you don't need anything fancy, just a 12V source and your regular C-clamp. Just hook two leads to 12VDC source and the motor on the caliper and watch it spin. You might need to reverse the leads if it's spinning the wrong way. Once you figure out the correct polarity, just hook a C-clamp or if you have an actual caliper compression tool, use that and compress the piston back into the caliper. Worked fine for me and I didn't need a fancy tool or trip to the dealer.
 
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