[Rockland]

I don't know if its just me but the fan does not seem to blow High when set to max. Compared to my daughters 2010 Forte Ex and my wifes 2015 Renegade I would say my Optima gets to mid speed at most. I have replaced the blower motor and the blower resistor with new OEM ones but nothing changed. What else should I be looking at?


On a side note I know on my other cars that when you turn on recirculation air blows stronger through the vents, you can even hear the difference. Yet not so on the Optima.

 

[Turbonut]

Are you speaking of when on auto, or when manually setting the fan on high, or both?

 

[Rockland]

both

 

[Rockland]

I'm sure that it is not blowing at its fastest speed. The speed seems extremely anemic.

 

[Turbonut]

When doing it manually does the fan speed increase as the "blocks" rise?
Know stupid question, filter clean?
Did you run 12v direct to the motor to test?
He's voltage/speed:

First speed ​	3.8 ±0.5V ​
Second speed ​	5.0 ±0.5V ​
Third speed ​	6.2 ±0.5V ​
Fourth speed ​	7.4 ±0.5V ​
Fifth speed ​	8.6 ±0.5V ​
Sixth speed ​	9.8 ±0.5V ​
Seventh speed ​	11.0 ±0.5V ​
eighth speed ​	Battery​

 

[Rockland]

Fan increases in speed but no difference from 3/4 to full. Filters are clean, motor is new and no difference from replaced motor but I never tested either with a 12v direct.

 

[Turbonut]

On a hot day, does the car cool quickly when A/C is on Max? Don't know how to check the rpm of the blower motor, other than voltage supplied. Having said that, just make certain the duct work if free of obstructions and that the air is coming out of all vents equally.
Just a thought that the Kia duct work area is larger than the two vehicles mentioned, the air flow sound in the Kia might be less than the other two vehicles that might have a more restrictive duct work.

If there is a cooling concern, might want to stick a thermometer in the center duct, a/c on max and check the air temp.
I can't complain about the '11 EX-T as the blower ramps up fine, and after the compressor replaced 3 years ago will freeze one out in no time, especially with the heat wave here in Jersey.

 

[Rockland]

I had the A/C recharged recently do to inconsistent cooling. A/C would take in excess of 10 minutes to start to cool, then it would wax and wain between blowing cool air and warm. I had not got cold air in about a year. Even with professional recharge I still have the same problem just more intermittent. I will be bring it in too a dedicated A/C repair shop to have it diagnosed. Still doesn't explain the inability of the blower to push air as it once did when on max fan speed.

 

[Rockland]

On a hot day, does the car cool quickly when A/C is on Max? Don't know how to check the rpm of the blower motor, other than voltage supplied. Having said that, just make certain the duct work if free of obstructions and that the air is coming out of all vents equally.
Just a thought that the Kia duct work area is larger than the two vehicles mentioned, the air flow sound in the Kia might be less than the other two vehicles that might have a more restrictive duct work.

If there is a cooling concern, might want to stick a thermometer in the center duct, a/c on max and check the air temp.
I can't complain about the '11 EX-T as the blower ramps up fine, and after the compressor replaced 3 years ago will freeze one out in no time, especially with the heat wave here in Jersey.

Do you know of any reputable A/C shops in North Jersey? I'm in Rockland county. I actually purchased my Kia CPO from Prestige Kia in Tenafly in 2016.

 

[Turbonut]

The A/C has the classic bad compressor control valve. There's a valve at the rear of the compressor that when it fails you'll get delayed cooling, but when working cold air will be felt. Wrote this before and many threads on the subject, but 3 years our '11 2.0T would have a delayed cooling maybe 10-15 minutes after starting then woulld mostly fine rest of the day, pressures fine (low/High), but one day stopped completely. Did all the checks, evap sensor, transducer, etc and decide it to be the control valve. Compressor noisy so replaced with used conpressor added 193 oz refrigerant fine ever since.
You can purchase the valve separately VS16E compressor. Got to run, in what part of Jersey are you located?

 

[Rockland]

The A/C has the classic bad compressor control valve. There's a valve at the rear of the compressor that when it fails you'll get delayed cooling, but when working cold air will be felt. Wrote this before and many threads on the subject, but 3 years our '11 2.0T would have a delayed cooling maybe 10-15 minutes after starting then woulld mostly fine rest of the day, pressures fine (low/High), but one day stopped completely. Did all the checks, evap sensor, transducer, etc and decide it to be the control valve. Compressor noisy so replaced with used conpressor added 193 oz refrigerant fine ever since.
You can purchase the valve separately VS16E compressor. Got to run, in what part of Jersey are you located?

I am in Rockland county so anything in North Jersey/Bergen County.

 

[Turbonut]

I'm down in Hunterdon, so no idea of a mechanic/service center in the area. There must be some shops in the area that local people can vouch for.
This is just a picture of the valve, not necessarily a low price though:

Amazon.com: A/C Compressor Control Valve EX 10636C: Automotive

Buy A/C Compressor Control Valve EX 10636C: Control Valves - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

To replace the valve, the system needs to be discharged, part replaced, evacuated, charged, but as you stated, that doesn't correct the low air if there is a problem.
Using the fan setting, does the blower itself increase each time the up arrow is pushed?

Looked at mine today and even after first start, the auto didn't even need to be at max to get the temps down into the 60's, but did try the up fan button and it increased when pushed, but don't believe it sounds as forceful as the blower in the wife's Acura, but guess it doesn't need to be if it cools quickly.

 

[KingFatty]

Is it possible to access the terminals of the blower motor, so you can connect a voltmeter and just confirm that the voltage is increasing?

It could be that the fan works fine, but using the sound of the whooshing air is unreliable to confirm whether the fan has a problem.

 

[Turbonut]

Yes, and the values are listed above, but he did install a new blower motor.

 

[KingFatty]

Yes, I wonder if the motor and resistor is good, maybe the problem is not enough power delivery. Could it be a bad ground somewhere? Or something that prevents enough current from flowing through the motor, even though the voltage seems right?

 

[Rockland]

Yes, I wonder if the motor and resistor is good, maybe the problem is not enough power delivery. Could it be a bad ground somewhere? Or something that prevents enough current from flowing through the motor, even though the voltage seems right?

That would be the most likely explanation as getting both a bad resistor and blower seems highly improbable. The other thing is that perhaps it is blowing to maximum capacity and I just find it inadequate. Though I swear that it blew with more force when I first purchased it.

 

[cc646]

I don't know if its just me but the fan does not seem to blow High when set to max. Compared to my daughters 2010 Forte Ex and my wifes 2015 Renegade I would say my Optima gets to mid speed at most. I have replaced the blower motor and the blower resistor with new OEM ones but nothing changed. What else should I be looking at?


On a side note I know on my other cars that when you turn on recirculation air blows stronger through the vents, you can even hear the difference. Yet not so on the Optima.

I've noticed this as well. It sounds alot louder than the actual amount of air flow coming from the vents. Almost like half of it is being aimed at the windshield when its not. Mine does cool adequately but I don't even bother putting it on the first or second fan speed because it barely feels like the air is on, so it's pointless.