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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2013 optima turbo engine was replaced for the engine recall...within days engine billowing white smoke and steering was clunking and popping (worked just fine before new engine install)...dealer said problems were due to faulty turbo charger, which was noted on the paperwork after new engine install but strangely was not brought to our attention while the new engine was still on the hoist and not yet in the car...10 weeks later the brand new engine seized up...took car back to dealer and they said there was no oil in the engine...I believe they dropped the engine when placing it and damaged the steering, turbo, and engine itself...a different mechanic looked at the turbo and told us it had been cracked and such damage could only have happened if it were directly struck, which is almost impossibly given where it sits in the engine compartment...I believe the dealer intentionally did not call us and advise us to repair the damaged turbo before they installed the new engine because they did not want to admit to damaging it or the steering while lowering the new engine into the engine compartment...they made no mention of the damaged turbo when it would have been much easier and less costly to repair while the engine was still not inside the compartment...they only pointed to it when we called about the billowing smoke and steering problems 3 days after we picked up the car...and I dont think that it would even be possible to burn up 5 quarts of oil in a properly installed $6000 engine in just under 3 months of routine driving...I believe they knew full well they completely botched the engine install and are trying to avoid eating the cost of a $10,000 repair...anybody have any other rational explanation for all these issues happening very coincidentally right after a new engine install?
 

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Normally the engine is not "dropped/lowered" into the engine compartment, but the entire subframe and engine is lowered from the car, then reinstalled from the bottom..Little confused, if the car was blowing white smoke after installation, what was the result of that situation? I wouldn't put anything past the stealership, when they damage something they will do anything to try and cover it up, but must say, if there was a problem, I would think that at least you should be checking the oil level. Bottom line is that it is will be very difficult to fight a stealership as they have all the right answers as they lie through their teeth.
 

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Normally the engine is not "dropped/lowered" into the engine compartment, but the entire subframe and engine is lowered from the car, then reinstalled from the bottom..
Little confused, if the car was blowing white smoke after installation, what was the result of that situation? I wouldn't put anything past the stealership, when they damage
something they will do anything to try and cover it up, but must say, if there was a problem, I would think that at least you should be checking the oil level.
Bottom line is that it is will be very difficult to fight a stealership as they have all the right answers as they lie through their teeth.
This vehicle does not have a normal subframe where you drop everything down. The crossmember is more of a steering/suspension component and to drop it would be more of a hassle i think than just raising the engine out. i could be wrong but i wouldn't do it that way if it was me. i think the OP is correct in his thinking and they f'd it all up that way.
 

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This vehicle does not have a normal subframe where you drop everything down. The crossmember is more of a steering/suspension component and to drop it would be more of a hassle i think than just raising the engine out. i could be wrong but i wouldn't do it that way if it was me. i think the OP is correct in his thinking and they f'd it all up that way.
Not saying that the motor can't be pulled out from the top, but the preferred and easier method is dropping it out the bottom:

Just tie a/c compressor under the radiator support, undo everything and entire assembly drops down and it can be worked on easily.
 

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2013 Ebony SXL Turbo: Original Everything @ about 189K with Drag wheels.
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I doubt engine 'burned' that much oil in such little time.

Instead I suspect it leaked out. Was there no oil on the ground anywhere as a clue?

But obviously overall, this really Sucks. Sorry about all that. Perhaps it is time to call a lawyer the family knows. Many times a stern letter from a law firm will get someone to do the 'right' thing. Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Normally the engine is not "dropped/lowered" into the engine compartment, but the entire subframe and engine is lowered from the car, then reinstalled from the bottom..Little confused, if the car was blowing white smoke after installation, what was the result of that situation? I wouldn't put anything past the stealership, when they damage something they will do anything to try and cover it up, but must say, if there was a problem, I would think that at least you should be checking the oil level. Bottom line is that it is will be very difficult to fight a stealership as they have all the right answers as they lie through their teeth.
[/QUOTE

The dealer was quick to say the white smoke was coming out of the tail pipe due to the broken turbo charger..it was a large amount of white billowing smoke...as if there was a smoke bomb firework In the tailpipe...the car is my ex gf's...so i didn't have access to the vehicle easily to check the oil...I advised her to drive the car back to the dealer immediately and demand that they repair the botched job while standing in the middle of the showroom floor so all the new car shoppers could hear how they treat their customer base...of course ex gf did not take my advise...I warned her that if she didn't return it immediately they would say she damaged the car herself after they repaired it...no matter what, if the dealer had done the engine recall job properly, I'm certain that car could easily have been driven 20000 miles with no oil change and would not have lost a drop of oil...I'm really just trying to get confirmation on my premise that the dealer totally botched the engine install and damaged the turbo and steering on top of that...I'm not a mechanic but I'd bet dollars to donuts I'm 10 percent correct in my assumption here...I need confirmation from more repair savvy people before I head down to her Kia dealer and start telling them what their options are before we go the lawyer route
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Normally the engine is not "dropped/lowered" into the engine compartment, but the entire subframe and engine is lowered from the car, then reinstalled from the bottom..Little confused, if the car was blowing white smoke after installation, what was the result of that situation? I wouldn't put anything past the stealership, when they damage something they will do anything to try and cover it up, but must say, if there was a problem, I would think that at least you should be checking the oil level. Bottom line is that it is will be very difficult to fight a stealership as they have all the right answers as they lie through their teeth.
the car is my ex gf's and i did not have the car readily at my disposal to check the oil...as such, i can't say if there were visible spots from leaks in her driveway (which was dirt and gravel anyway) or tell you what the dipstick was registering...I am not super knowledgeable about major car repairs when it comes to the finer details, but I know enough to have advised her to drive it back to the dealer immediately in spite of them blaming the billowing smoke on the turbo...the turbo was working fine before they touched the car and the steering was smooth as butter...my advise was to take the car back and demand that they fix their botched job because ray charles could see that they screwed the car up royally...if you drive the car out of the shop after a new engine was put in and within 3 days your car is leaving smoke screens thick enough that the cars behind you can no longer be seen, the turbo charger is cracked, and the steering column is popping and clunking with every turn of the wheel, I don't think you need a pHd in auto mechanics to conclude that the most likely cause of the cluster of sudden issues is a very bad engine install...I'm going down to the dealer with her to make it clear to them that she and I understand fully that there is almost zero possibility that their shoddy work is not the cause of the cluster of problems that surface immediately after they performed the major repair....essentially i'm just trying to reach out to more knowledgeable folks on this matter because i'm no expert, but I think my argument here is very solid...details such as how the engine is actually removed or installed during the repair are not really what I'm trying to nail down...I am asking if I'm on target in assuming that the suddenly cracked turbo charger and clunky popping steering column are clear signs that when they installed the new engine, they were careless and damaged those parts of the vehicle...on top of that, am I on target in my assumption that if the new engine was properly installed, there is almost zero possibility that it lost all of its oil and seized up within 10 weeks or so of routine use and mileage...and that if that is what happened to that new engine and other related mechanical issues/damage, it is almost as certain as the sun coming up tomorrow that their botched engine install is the cause of all of these problems and they are 100 percent on the hook for repairing or replacing the vehicle...that is what I need to confirm before heading down there with her and laying it all out with legal threats...I am absolutely certain they damaged the car during the install because they noted the damaged turbo in the engine install paperwork yet never once mentioned it or tried to upsell her on a new turbo...not to mention even the worst mechanic would have pointed out that it would have been highly advisable to put the new turbo in while they were already doing a new engine install...there is no logical reason I can think of for not calling her as soon as they noticed the damaged turbo charger to see if she wanted them to put a new one on before installing the engine...that is standard practice...the fact that they noted it in the paperwork but did not mention anything about it and just went ahead and installed the new engine without even a phone call to her about the turbo is a clear sign to me that they knew they were the ones who had damaged the turbo charger...I had driven the car just before the original engine took a dump...it seemed to be operating perfectly to me...no strange noises or noticeable symptoms of any kind...a week later, the engine began making ticking noises that progressed in a single day to louder and louder ticking/knocking noises and complete inoperability all in the same day...there was nothing wrong with the steering or turbo charger...we had a mechanic look at the turbo charger when the dealer blamed the white smoke on a bad turbo charger...that mechanic said the crack and damage he could see on the turbo charger could not possibly have been caused by anything other than a high speed collision or hitting the turbo charger with a large metal object...it could not possibly have happened from just driving the vehicle...the turbo charger was most likely damaged when they were installing the new engine...it was bumped against something while lowering the engine into the compartment (or raising it into the compartment) and was easily damaged under the full weight of the engine which it was attached to...I checked the engine layout and the turbo charger sits out on the edge of the engine when it is attached...it would literally be the first part that made contact if the engine swung or suddenly shifted toward to side the turbo is attached to...no matter what, I know that you don't just toss the engine in the compartment and slap on some bolts...it has to be inched in carefully and tilted in delicately before it sits where it needs to be...there is plenty of room for error when doing this step with a 1000 pound plus chunk of metal that has small widgets attached all over its outer edges...every point i've listed here will be in my holster when we go to the kia dealer...if anyone sees a reason at all why any of my points are not solid, I'd like to hear about it...any input is much appreciaated
 

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2013 Ebony SXL Turbo: Original Everything @ about 189K with Drag wheels.
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I think what you describe is plausible. Its not really use here on this crazy forum you need to convince, its either the dealership or a lawyer. I would take pics to prove your point on where the cracks are, what they are like and most mechanically oriented folks will take it from there.

Use stuff like this: Kia Optima: Turbo Charger. Components and Components Location - Intake And Exhaust System - Engine Mechanical System - Kia Optima TF 2011-2021 Service Manual
to demonstrate where the crack is so folks can do the 'math' and understand how that crack could have happened where it did.

Luck.
 
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