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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone,

New member here. Bought a '15 Optima EX last month, new engine installed after failure!

I replaced all brake hoses, calipers, rotors, and pads. Bled all brakes according to the repair manual multiple times.

I noticed the brakes worked well but if I put a lot of pressure on the pedal it would slowly approach the floor.

After scouring the internet/youtube I found out a faulty master cylinder could be the issue.

I ordered a new master cylinder, and o-ring from the dealer. I got around to bleeding the master cylinder and all wheels again.

I must have bled the brakes 6 times by now. After researching I also discovered that there could be air trapped in the ABS module.

I've tried bleeding the 2 brake lines on the ABS module as well, after activating the ABS system by driving through leaves.

The pedal is still continuing to the floor after purposely pushing the down hard on the pedal.

Isn't the brake pedal supposed to stop about half way no matter how much force you put on the pedal?

This issue is driving me crazy because I've had to jack up the car multiple times now.

At this point i'm thinking the only thing I can do at this point is bring the car to a dealer/mechanic and have them bleed the system.

Just wondering if anyone might know what the issue is? there's no fluid leaking anywhere, and pretty sure air isnt being sucked in.

Thank you,
Evan
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The first bleed method I used was the harbor freight handheld bleeder pump. It wasn't pulling much fluid through.

The second method I used was having my wife pump the brakes and hold, while I opened the nipple and closed when her foot was at the floor.

I followed the repair manual procedure of bleeding the Rear Passenger, Front drivers, rear drivers, front passenger.

I did the partner method 3 times.

I also bled the system using the solo method with fluid in the container, and constantly pumping.

I bled the master cylinder with a master cylinder bleed kit while on the car. Tubes from the MC nipples into the full reservoir.

Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The first bleed method I used was the harbor freight handheld bleeder pump. It wasn't pulling much fluid through.

The second method I used was having my wife pump the brakes and hold, while I opened the nipple and closed when her foot was at the floor.

I followed the repair manual procedure of bleeding the Rear Passenger, Front drivers, rear drivers, front passenger.

I did the partner method 3 times.

I also bled the system using the solo method with fluid in the container, and constantly pumping.

I bled the master cylinder with a master cylinder bleed kit while on the car. Tubes from the MC nipples into the full reservoir.

Any ideas?
To be clear I bled the master cylinder first, and then the brakes again.
 

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Got to make sure, no leaks after the parts replaced, so double check hose connections.
Well, just a shot in the dark, but from what I read, the wife pressed the pedal, held pressure, opened the bleeder until the pedal hit the floor, closed bleeder.
Actually the bleeder should be opened/closed before the brakes hit the floor so as pressure remains in the system.
Also, the hose method as well as using a vacuum to bleed the system, has a shortfall in that air can enter around the bleeder threads as the pedal is raised
or as vacuum is pulled through the bleeder.
Sequence is correct.

No other ideas at present.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Got to make sure, no leaks after the parts replaced, so double check hose connections.
Well, just a shot in the dark, but from what I read, the wife pressed the pedal, held pressure, opened the bleeder until the pedal hit the floor, closed bleeder.
Actually the bleeder should be opened/closed before the brakes hit the floor so as pressure remains in the system.
Also, the hose method as well as using a vacuum to bleed the system, has a shortfall in that air can enter around the bleeder threads as the pedal is raised
or as vacuum is pulled through the bleeder.
Sequence is correct.

No other ideas at present.
Thank you Turbonut! I'm pretty confident the hoses and stuff arent leaking.

Noted, I wont use those vacuum bleeders anymore.

Okay, so ill try to have her get close to the floor instead of bottoming out, and then close the bleeder.

If the pedal hits the floor it loses (releases) pressure? Interesting. Didn't think of that.
 

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Well, just trying to think why you can't get a pedal, so thought I'd throw that out there.
Have an old Ford truck I picked up cheap, and after replacement of the ABS unit, couldn't get a firm pedal using vacuum, and even costed the bleeders with grease so no air would enter. Not having the Ford scan tool to activate the ABS, took the beast out and made some "panic" stops to activate the ABS unit, still no good and no leaks in the system. Had the wife use her leg power and finally good to go.

Let us know how you make out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, just trying to think why you can't get a pedal, so thought I'd throw that out there.
Have an old Ford truck I picked up cheap, and after replacement of the ABS unit, couldn't get a firm pedal using vacuum, and even costed the bleeders with grease so no air would enter. Not having the Ford scan tool to activate the ABS, took the beast out and made some "panic" stops to activate the ABS unit, still no good and no leaks in the system. Had the wife use her leg power and finally good to go.

Let us know how you make out.
Thank you for your responses. Wow, and you replaced the ABS unit. I'll let you know how it turns out with the good ole partner method.
 

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I’m following this thread like I follow all of Turbonuts very informative threads. Just one question about ABS units. If you purposefully activate the ABS unit by simulating a slide or something would it really get any air out of the system since the system is still closed?

P.S. I gave up on the handheld vacuum pumps many years ago and went to the tube in a cup type bleeder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I’m following this thread like I follow all of Turbonuts very informative threads. Just one question about ABS units. If you purposefully activate the ABS unit by simulating a slide or something would it really get any air out of the system since the system is still closed?

P.S. I gave up on the handheld vacuum pumps many years ago and went to the tube in a cup type bleeder.
I wasn't clear on the activating the ABS module part. I went out last week and drove over leaves, activating the system several times, and then went back home and bled the ABS module.

I'm going to rebleed all the calipers again, maybe tomorrow night, and see if the fixes the pedal issue.

The brakes stop very well now and I can skid the tires on dry pavement. My OCD is acting up in that after the brakes are applied the pedal will go down and after a lot of pressure the pedal keeps going down.

I'm pretty sure the pedal is supposed to stop half way or a little more than halfway no matter how much force you apply to the pedal. That's how my wifes new Forte is, and i'm pretty sure normally bled brakes.
 

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If you have to bleed again and you use the tube in a cup method. Connect the bleeder to the first brake cylinder, open the bleeder valve just until it begins to flow and then pump the brakes VERY SLOWLY and deliberate. Down all the way down slow, hesitate a few seconds and let it up slow. Then go under and tighten the bleeder screw while holding the bleeder tube on.
……………….SLOW PUMPING.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If you have to bleed again and you use the tube in a cup method. Connect the bleeder to the first brake cylinder, open the bleeder valve just until it begins to flow and then pump the brakes VERY SLOWLY and deliberate. Down all the way down slow, hesitate a few seconds and let it up slow. Then go under and tighten the bleeder screw while holding the bleeder tube on.
……………….SLOW PUMPING.
Okay, i'll go with the tube in cup (with fluid) method and go slow and deliberate.

I'll put silicone grease on the bleeder screw threads.

Should I go all the way down with the pedal or 1 inch before the floor?

I probably did pump too fast, and you're right, may have sucked air in through the bleeder screw threads...
 

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I’ve always gone slowly down to the floor. Not with any real force but a gentle foot to the floor.

Full disclosure….my newest vehicle is a 2007 Kia ( I bleed brakes every three years but only once put it in the shop to have the ABS bled ) and all my previous experience has been with many, many non ABS vehicles all through the years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I’ve always gone slowly down to the floor. Not with any real force but a gentle foot to the floor.

Full disclosure….my newest vehicle is a 2007 Kia ( I bleed brakes every three years but only once put it in the shop to have the ABS bled ) and all my previous experience has been with many, many non ABS vehicles all through the years.
okay I see. Yes, i think I opened the bleeder screws too much. I'm just gonna crack `em open a tad, once the fluid shows. Im gonna pass on the grease too, because ill probably end up stripping the bleeder screws by overtightening.

I bet it's just the bleeder screws were open too far and sucking in air.
 

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okay I see. Yes, i think I opened the bleeder screws too much. I'm just gonna crack `em open a tad, once the fluid shows. Im gonna pass on the grease too, because ill probably end up stripping the bleeder screws by overtightening.

I bet it's just the bleeder screws were open too far and sucking in air.
very important to not open bleeder screws to much! learned that the hard way. Also the air in the system may be quite far in the line and may take lots of fluid getting pumped out the bleeders for it to get the air out. Patience is needed when bleeding brakes! i look forward to you solving this issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
very important to not open bleeder screws to much! learned that the hard way. Also the air in the system may be quite far in the line and may take lots of fluid getting pumped out the bleeders for it to get the air out. Patience is needed when bleeding brakes! i look forward to you solving this issue.
thanks for the positive reply. we'll see! More isn't always better apparently.
 

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I’m following this thread like I follow all of Turbonuts very informative threads. Just one question about ABS units. If you purposefully activate the ABS unit by simulating a slide or something would it really get any air out of the system since the system is still closed?

P.S. I gave up on the handheld vacuum pumps many years ago and went to the tube in a cup type bleeder.
(y)After activating the ABS bleed the brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
(y)After activating the ABS bleed the brakes.
I just returned from the dealer after they flushed the brakes, and get the recent ABS recall done (fuse kit replacement).

The pedal feels the same to me. Stops very well but the pedal goes down more than halfway.

I called the dealer and the tech explained to me that the pedal won't be like a new car. He said this is normal for an older car.

I'm super curious to see if other 3rd Gen Optima owners have the same type of brake pedal play.

Maybe I can try to post a video.

Does your guys brake pedal stop halfway and is super firm?

Like literally will your brake pedal be halfway and no matter how much force it wont go down anymore?

The repair manual does say it should end 1 inch from the floor.

So maybe all this IS actually normal?
 

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So when it stops half way and is firm, are the brakes doing their job and nearly locking up to point where anti-lock takes over? If so, then that's the way the brakes are, they do their job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So when it stops half way and is firm, are the brakes doing their job and nearly locking up to point where anti-lock takes over? If so, then that's the way the brakes are, they do their job.
yes they work. I was used to my 2020 Forte GT having a solid pedal after halfway.

I'll get used to these Optima Brakes. Like you said they do the job. Thanks!
 
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