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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So Ac was blowing hot air and local shop deemed bad compressor very quickly. They quoted $1600 so I took it upon myself to replace, I replaced compressor, condensor, and the expansion valve. I flushed during install and performed vacuum with no issues. Now the only hiccup I ran into was filling with Freon, the puncture valve or cans of freon were not flowing into manifold as they should of. I though I got it full as it started to blow cold air. I called it good but now after a week it has stopped blowing cold air again... Took to shop, they said it was low on Freon so they filled it but still no cold air.


Any ideas before I start from scratch?
 

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So Ac was blowing hot air and local shop deemed bad compressor very quickly. They quoted $1600 so I took it upon myself to replace, I replaced compressor, condensor, and the expansion valve. I flushed during install and performed vacuum with no issues. Now the only hiccup I ran into was filling with Freon, the puncture valve or cans of freon were not flowing into manifold as they should of. I though I got it full as it started to blow cold air. I called it good but now after a week it has stopped blowing cold air again... Took to shop, they said it was low on Freon so they filled it but still no cold air.


Any ideas before I start from scratch?
Anytime you open up the AC system you're supposed to replace the receiver drier. not doing so voids all components warranties. plus it may have been initial problem as it can restrict flow since you replaced probably the main reason of ac not working correctly in these cars being the compressor. it may not be the reason it's not working but like i said it's always supposed to be changed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Anytime you open up the AC system you're supposed to replace the receiver drier. not doing so voids all components warranties. plus it may have been initial problem as it can restrict flow since you replaced probably the main reason of ac not working correctly in these cars being the compressor. it may not be the reason it's not working but like i said it's always supposed to be changed.
Thanks for the reply, Im pretty sure the receiver dryer on this model is on the condenser right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Anytime you open up the AC system you're supposed to replace the receiver drier. not doing so voids all components warranties. plus it may have been initial problem as it can restrict flow since you replaced probably the main reason of ac not working correctly in these cars being the compressor. it may not be the reason it's not working but like i said it's always supposed to be changed.

Kia Optima 2013 2.4L
 

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Thanks for the reply, Im pretty sure the receiver dryer on this model is on the condenser right?
it might be? i know i was doing some work on other things one time and i left the switch unplugged and only got hot air obviously so might be that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
it might be? i know i was doing some work on other things one time and i left the switch unplugged and only got hot air obviously so might be that.
So Im pretty sure a new one came on the new condensor in the long tube on the side. What switch are you referring to?
 

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So Im pretty sure a new one came on the new condensor in the long tube on the side. What switch are you referring to?
there's a connector that plugs into it on the line front passenger of vehicle by radiator support/belt area i believe.
 

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Not to argue, but I've never replaced a dryer when the compressor hasn't spewed its internal into the system, and never a problem on hundreds, but for warranty they insist, garbage.
Best thing you can do is put gauges on the system to see pressures and go from there. If the compressor didn't come with oil you added the correct amount, and new o rings where needed?

The VDC compressor was probably only recommended because of the $50 control valve going bad and more money to be made doing the compressor replacement. I'd start from scratch, discharge, pull vacuum for 45 minutes or longer depending on how much the pump pulls down, let sit to make certain it holds, then add 19.3 oz refrigerant.

You don't want to run that compressor w/o a charge as the internals are turning all the time, even when a/c is off, no refrigerant no oil moving through the system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Not to argue, but I've never replaced a dryer when the compressor hasn't spewed its internal into the system, and never a problem on hundreds, but for warranty they insist, garbage.
Best thing you can do is put gauges on the system to see pressures and go from there. If the compressor didn't come with oil you added the correct amount, and new o rings where needed?

The VDC compressor was probably only recommended because of the $50 control valve going bad and more money to be made doing the compressor replacement. I'd start from scratch, discharge, pull vacuum for 45 minutes or longer depending on how much the pump pulls down, let sit to make certain it holds, then add 19.3 oz refrigerant.

You don't want to run that compressor w/o a charge as the internals are turning all the time, even when a/c is off, no refrigerant no oil moving through the system.

Thanks for the info, so I replaced all this on my own, the VDC compressor said it was pre-oiled so I left as such and only lubricated the new o rings with PAG.

Do you think doing what you suggested ( I'd start from scratch, discharge, pull vacuum for 45 minutes or longer depending on how much the pump pulls down, let sit to make certain it holds, then add 19.3 oz refrigerant. ) will bring it back to life? The first time, it held vacuum and I was able to get it to blow cold for about a week. Then when it stopped blowing cold, I took to shop and they said it was 6OZ low and so they filled it but still no cold air. I'm just curious if there is a logical explanation for this happening if a part has not failed?
 

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Don't know how much you put in when you were doing the initial charge, because if you indeed filled @19 oz and the pressures read the right range, and the temp out of the vents were correct, then there must be a leak if the shop said it was 6oz low. I have an electronic leak detector, but you can use soap and water to check for any leaks.
I'd check for leaks, then go through the process again. When changing many parts at one time, there is always a possibility of a fitting not being correct, or even a mechanical problem. These VDC compressors are not the easiest to troubleshoot, but if the system is full and no air then check the gauges to see what pressures. I've found that 99% of the time the control valve is the culprit, but yours is new. I had an experience with a new valve that came with a pin bent, didn't see it and tried to fill, no go, scratched my head and pulled out the plug and looked at the pins. Not happy as needed to get another valve and do the process all over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Don't know how much you put in when you were doing the initial charge, because if you indeed filled @19 oz and the pressures read the right range, and the temp out of the vents were correct, then there must be a leak if the shop said it was 6oz low. I have an electronic leak detector, but you can use soap and water to check for any leaks.
I'd check for leaks, then go through the process again. When changing many parts at one time, there is always a possibility of a fitting not being correct, or even a mechanical problem. These VDC compressors are not the easiest to troubleshoot, but if the system is full and no air then check the gauges to see what pressures. I've found that 99% of the time the control valve is the culprit, but yours is new. I had an experience with a new valve that came with a pin bent, didn't see it and tried to fill, no go, scratched my head and pulled out the plug and looked at the pins. Not happy as needed to get another valve and do the process all over.
I dont thiink it has a leak as pressure held, I just dont think I put enough in it the first round. Are you referring to the control valve that came attached to the new compressor or the Evap valve?
 

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Valve at the back of the compressor.
Just thought it was odd that it cooled, then didn't, so there was some reason why it stopped, shop looked at it and added 6 oz. If there wasn't enough in the system after your charge, it wouldn't have cooled at first.
At least my take.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Valve at the back of the compressor.
Just thought it was odd that it cooled, then didn't, so there was some reason why it stopped, shop looked at it and added 6 oz. If there wasn't enough in the system after your charge, it wouldn't have cooled at first.
At least my take.
It was probably that control valve all along... Wish I would have tried that first but here we are. I am getting a new compressor I found online that is very reasonable and I am able to return the other so going to try to replace compressor again and have a shop vacuum and fill. Do you happen to know how much PAG oil to add to the compressor? This new one I am getting is not prefilled.
 

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It was probably that control valve all along... Wish I would have tried that first but here we are. I am getting a new compressor I found online that is very reasonable and I am able to return the other so going to try to replace compressor again and have a shop vacuum and fill. Do you happen to know how much PAG oil to add to the compressor? This new one I am getting is not prefilled.
Just remember, if the system is empty there will be no circulation of oil and the compressor can lockup from lack of lubrication. If you're thinking of driving it empty, then have it evacuated and charged, I'd through some refrigerant in the system that would at least allow you to drive it to the destination, hopefully not far. Then the shop can discharge/recycle the refrigerant, evacuate and charge.

As you changed numerous parts, don't know what you added previously, but I'd drain the compressor to check quantity, but I'd say @ 1.4 oz for just the compressor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Just remember, if the system is empty there will be no circulation of oil and the compressor can lockup from lack of lubrication. If you're thinking of driving it empty, then have it evacuated and charged, I'd through some refrigerant in the system that would at least allow you to drive it to the destination, hopefully not far. Then the shop can discharge/recycle the refrigerant, evacuate and charge.

As you changed numerous parts, don't know what you added previously, but I'd drain the compressor to check quantity, but I'd say @ 1.4 oz for just the compressor.
It is about a 6 minute drive to shop. So I did not add any oil the first time, just relied on the pre filled compressor but I did replace the condenser and the expansion valve as well, and I flushed lines and evaporator. So a couple more questions...

If I fill the compressor with 1.4 oz of oil and use this to slightly charge, do you think it will be ok to drive over?


Thanks for all your help!
 

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It's not the oil that's needed, pressure needs to be in the system so the oil circulates.
You also needed to add oil to the condenser.
Must admit, I'm not certain how long a VDC can be operated with no refrigerant. It has a pulley on the front and if the compressor seizes, the pulley will break the ears so that the car can continue to be driven, but compressor shot.
 
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