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At ECM Emissions Update the multi-Pt Inspect showed ... 6 mm Front Pads ... and 5 mm Rear Pads.
WHAT's the - mm number - to change at ... 4? / Tkt says Rears may be needed at next Svc Visit.....
My Numbers contradict, too, statement that Rears need changing half as often as Front.
I'm At 54K miles....
 
That looks more like a 60k service without the Trans service. Coolant service typically is done around 60k not 30, and the rear pads and rotors are not part of the 30k or 60k service they must have informed u that ur pads were low and asked if u wanted ur rear brakes done?? For the work done ur bill is normal. A/c recharge isn't part of a 30k or 60k either, that's separate as well as the brake job. 30k service is cleaning the ac drain tube not recharging the system
 
At 54k u should have gotten a 60k service not a 30k. And ur brakes should be lower than 6mm and 5mm unless ur extremely gentle with braking. 54k sounds right for needing brakes. But it's not considered part of 30 or 60k service it's considered separate and dealership is supposed to get approval before replacing
 
The AC sanitization is pure profit. If they did anything, they sprayed some Lysol into the cabin air intake.

The wiper blade and oil change costs are reasonable. Wiper blades last six months before sunlight breaks them down and they get streaky; if you aren't changing them yourself twice a year, it's likely they need replacement by the time you get an oil change.

The cabin filter replacement: it's a ten-minute DIY job, and the filter costs $12 to $30 depending on quality and source. Add a few minutes if you have to vacuum a mouse nest out of the filter box.

Fuel injection service: They probably charged you $180 to pour a $12 bottle of Techron into your gas tank, which isn't even needed if you buy name-brand gas ("Top Tier certified").

Coolant flush: About right for dealership costs... but probably not needed. If the cooling system wasn't contaminated... and the coolant tested OK for specific gravity (a 30-second test with a $8 tool), there's no reason to replace it this early.

Brake replacement: if you really needed it, that's about what a dealership would charge. If you did it yourself, it'd probably be about $200 in parts, give or take depending on source and quality. But did they tell you what the old brake pads measured, or did you feel vibrations when braking? If not, it's an open question whether you really needed it.
 
As I said previously, they all make up their own maintenance schedule so don't feel bad, and at least you know for future visits.
Too bad you don't know someone that can do the basics on your vehicle as the rear brake pads/rotor could have been purchased for @ $125 (aftermarket) and then a few bucks for labor.
I bought front and rear R1 drilled and slotted roters R1 ceramic brake pads and hardware kit for $305 plus tax. Just under $350 gave my friend $50 for installing them. He would have done it for free, but I don't roll like that. So for less than $400 I have upgraded front and rear brakes on my 2015 Optima lx.
 
brake fluid must be changed regularly. It is hygroscopic meaning it absorbs moisture. Brake fluid with too high percentage of water will boil quickly, meaning your brakes won’t work properly when you need them most, in an emergency
While what you are saying is factually correct there a probably literally millions of vehicles on the road with brake fluid that has never been changed and the brakes work just fine. In normal daily driving you are highly unlikely to build up enough heat to boil your fluid, even in a panic stop situation. It take repeated hard use of the brakes to build up and maintain that kind of heat.
 
While what you are saying is factually correct there a probably literally millions of vehicles on the road with brake fluid that has never been changed and the brakes work just fine. In normal daily driving you are highly unlikely to build up enough heat to boil your fluid, even in a panic stop situation. It take repeated hard use of the brakes to build up and maintain that kind of heat.
Im sure you are correct, given how many people drive around on bald tyres. However how many people rear-end other cars when they go to brake suddenly, i bet that a whole bunch of situations where they could have avoided an accident had their brakes been properly maintained. Long downhill sections riding the brakes, no engine braking, get to a tight corner and the brake pedal sinks to the floor and you end up on the wrong side of the road…

high water content in brake fluid also corrodes the brake system and seals especially around the caliper.
 
I have 61k on my 2016 still on original pads. Brake wear is usually a result of how and where you drive, the smother the driver the longer they last, I also live in North Texas which is very flat but we have alot of traffic. Obviously if you live in the moutains your brake pad life will be much less.
 
I have a 2014 Kia Optima with 150,000 miles. I’ve never done one of those scheduled services and just changed oil/tires/brake pads/filters as needed. I did change my brake fluid and spark plugs at 100,000 miles with a couple fuel additives here and there. Never had a problem and it’s still running strong.
Sounds like original engine!! You have the Turbo or 2.4L?
 
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