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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all

Currently i own a 2019 kia optima lx. It has 23k miles on it, oil recently changed, and a brand new k&n air filter. When first started it will jerk into 2nd gear until the car warms up a bit. It idles low at stop lights (only if i push my brake in far enough) where when i let off of the brake you can feel the car struggle for a second. Also the power when driving dont quiet feel right. Last thing i noticed was this morning when i started it it stalled and when i started it a second time it struggled for a second to start then drove fine. Issue i have is no lights are on the dash so nobody can figure out what is wrong with it because diagnostics dont show anything. Anyone ran into similar issues?
 

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2011 Kia Optima
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Did it start after the K&N filter was added? If so some use too much oil on the filter?
Seems a little early with the low mileage, but the ATF temp sensor has a habit of going bad and causing shifting problems when cold and/or when hot.

The dealers can place equipment in the OBD II port and watch live data when car running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The K&N filter was just the air filter using normal oil filter on car. May have them try that. last dealer i took it to said they didnt see anything but only think they looked to see if check engine light was on to register a code.
 

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Who installed the K&N filter? The K&N filters that I'm familiar with are washable, use oil to help contain contaminates and some over oil the filter and that leads to problems. Not saying this is the problem, just something to consider.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ahh i get what you are saying. I installed the filter myself i didnt use any oil on it. Did see issues prior to filter being installed as well.
 

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Cross out that possibility. Any other possibility isn't that easy as testing needs to be done with real time equipment or when the CEL comes on. Just guessing there might be a slight vacuum leak and even low fuel pressure could cause a problem, but with a new car???
If it continues to start and die, try turning the ignition on or push the button to light the dash but do not activate the starter. Let it sit for 15/20 seconds then turn the key or hit the start button and see if any difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I was pondering whether it could be a low fuel pressure issue. but would that cause the hard shift into 2nd? or you think these are probably 2 seperate issues im seeing? the hard shift only happens when i first turn on the car then it drives fine. I have an appointment set up to try to get some testing done but they are backed up and cant get my car in till the 23. Next time it doesnt start ill try that. That issue only happened once so far but figured with the low idle at stops they are probably related.
 

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Got to admit, nothing surpries me with the new cars, so I'd say two separate issues. On the older cars where vacuum was used by the transmission for various functions I'd say it could be one, but as I said, problems with these new vehicles sometimes leave me scratching my head until one runs tests.

A friend of mine has a shop and the local Cadillac dealer couldn't find the problem as to why it would stall occasionally, so after 3 visits he ended up with the car to diagnose. He drove the car with meters attached off nd on for 3 days, no stalling, no out of range conditions found, so what can he do with no valid info to direct him to a specific area. Guess the car will be back in for the fourth time at some point in the future.
 

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2015 Kia Optima LX 2.4L GDI Automatic
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Did you ever figure out what the cause of the issue was? I bought a 15' Kia Optima LX 2.4L GDI used at a jeep dealership where I live back in December of 2019 because it was the best deal at the time (If only I knew covid-19 was about to hit, could have gotten a better deal). The mileage was at 85,000 when I bought it, so kind of high I know. Ever since I've owned it, it has done the exact same thing you're talking about. My engine actually blew 3 months later because of their faulty rod bearings, but it was covered & rebuilt by there life time engine warranty of course. The issue was still there though, even after engine being rebuilt which told me it wasn't the engine itself, but something else entirely. My 1st assumption was the tranny obviously, but I had both the jeep & Kia dealership look at it & they said it all looked perfect. After doing more research, people made it sound like it needed a valve cleaning because GDI engines get carbon composite build up way more than standard engines. I used the cleaner myself, and the car seem to run smoother but the jerk from 1st-2nd was still consistent. After more research, I came across complaints about similar issue & someone said the culprit was a sensor inside the automatic transmission. When I asked the dealership to look at it for me, they said it would cost money so I said **** that lol. So before I move any further, I wanted to get others opinions who've dealt with the same issue. Considering you have an LX as well that shares the same powertrain, there must have been another faulty part that hasn't been addressed (most likely sensor). Let me know what the update is for your situation. Thanks!
 

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2013 Ebony SXL Turbo: Original Everything @ about 189K with Drag wheels.
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Based on OP's description, I'd drain/fill trans once or twice to see if that improves the shift characteristics. I'd use Kia fluid, pricey but to spec.

Drain/fills have solved many a folk's trans shift issues. Luck.
 

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2015 Kia Optima LX 2.4L GDI Automatic
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I appreciate your response & for sharing that information with me. I am doing more research as we speak now; watching videos on YT how to drain & remove transmission case, to replace heat sensor and how to refill with new fluid. I truly believe based on what I've read, my scenario might require both methods to solve my issue considering my car is about to reach 100K miles. If you have any videos or "how to", walkthroughs please by all means share them. I am new to mechanics & haven't done much, but want to learn to save money & as a hobby.
 

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2013 Ebony SXL Turbo: Original Everything @ about 189K with Drag wheels.
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Yeah it seems likely you've got a sticking solenoid. Fresh, clean fluid very often helps clean out residues that cause the sticking, I would try only that first. May take more than one drain/fill because not all the fluid will come out with a simple drain/fill. Alternately you may also take it to a shop that has the equipment to flush all the fluid out, cleanse it and then refill, some folks don't like flushes but this is a situation that calls for it.

If you decide to do drain/fills, here is a how to from a shop manual:


Luck and let us know how it turns out.
 

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Am I missreading something here...16 optima EX here, 2.4...are we talking transmission or ?? My Optima at the same mileage had hard shift from first to second, then from 2nd to 3rd...then back and forth...when cold. Kia misdiagnosed the whole thing and finally the dealership owner said..."new transmission ". Now it runs like a rabbit...in sport or normal or eco. The rebult they installed IS different than original, but with just 30,000 miles on the car...it continues to be the best car Ive ever owned!
 

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I wanted to comment on here because I have a 2019 Kia Optima S, I’ve had jerking problems such as when I would accelerate my whole car would jerk and my rpms would stay at first. It ended up needing the fuel pump replaced not once but twice! I would see about taking it to the dealer and asking them to check the fuel pump.
 
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