Don't know; no multi-meter but the battery is brand new, purchased hours earlier from Costco.Sounds like you already double checked battery terminals tightness.
So first thing in the morning, what is the sitting voltage of the new battery? S/B at least 12.7
Disconnected terminals yesterday afternoon to give it some time to think and maybe reset. Read a couple of reset procedures online ranging from holding down the lock feature on the keyfob for three seconds, while in the ignition with ignition turned on. Dashlights should blink and everything reset. Have not done that yet. Another fix with holding down window switches but that was for a push button ignition scenario, which I don't have. Reached out to the dealership service manager but have not heard back, thank you very much.Sounds like you already double checked battery terminals tightness.
So first thing in the morning, what is the sitting voltage of the new battery? S/B at least 12.7
UPDATE: Left the battery cables disconnected overnight to insure an ECU reset. Doing that disabled my key fob funtions, disabled the powers inside the car (windows, locks, radio, etc). Tried the key fob re-sync caper, putting it into the driver's side door lock and alternately turning it clockwise and then back 6 times or better. Supposedly the purpose is for you to head the locks actually activate and engage once again. No bueno. Did the same for ignition and that was a no go, as well. Disconnected everything again last night. Heading out there to see if I can start with restoring the key fob to operational status. Hate like **** to have this thing towed to the dealer. Worst of it is, I can't lock the other doors.Just because the battery is new does not mean it's fully charged!
Thanks for your input. I don't know the extent of the Anti-Theft Software Upgrade. Logic tells me there should have been a problem from the time the dealer did the upgrade. Can't be sure. I did take the battery to Autozone to have it checked two days ago. Came back with a reading of 87% charged and 800CCA. Put the battery back in the car, hooked it up, and nothing except for the usual dash lights and chime as I turned the ignition to start. Pulled my wife's car into the driveway, hooked up jumper cables, and it wouldn't turn a lick. Got one click on two straight attempts and then not even a click afterwards. Went through another exercise i saw on Youtube. Key in the ignition, turn to On then Off quickly. Supposedly resets the computers. All I got on the 4th attempt was a chirp from the horn.Not familiar with the anti-theft mod to prevent theft, but if that fix involves electrical connections, double check it. Wish you had a battery charger so you could make sure the battery was fully charged. Sometimes the last repair or fix done to the car is the issue. I just assisted with a 2020 Camry repair. Cruise control would quit working, traction control light and collision avoidance light would come on if you turned the headlights on in the car. Last repair was an aftermarket taillight assembly because the stock one had a crack. Sure enough, it was the taillight. Put in a stock $300 taillight, everything works fine again. So many systems connected to the computers in these cars.
My battery died abruptly at just over 5 years. It really went abruptly. Same AGM type battery. No "slow cranking" before hand to warn me the battery was getting old. So I am wondering if these cars are super sensitive to low voltage to where nothing works? Guess you could rule that out by trying the jump-start.
I'm curious what an emissions light on the dash looks like?UPDATE 2017 KIA OPTIMA LX 2.4L: I was able to use a YouTube hack to finally start the car, just after making towing arrangement with my extended warranty company. Called them back to say I wouldn't need their services. Drove the car around with three instrumentation lights lit on the dash that did not go out. They were Emissions, TPMS, and the Stability Control Indicator. Drove around for 15 minutes returning to the front of my house, just in case to make towing a bit more accessible. I turned the car off and waited a couple minutes before trying to start it again. Did so and it started but not with the Emissions Light OFF, leaving the other two.
Longer story shorter, I drove to the dealership and dropped the car for electrical diagnsis which I believed would be covered by my extended warranty. The tech made a note than I pulled a 40amp fuse in the engine compartment fuse box and put it back into the wrong space. I never touched a 40 amp fuse and proved it to the dealership as I had taken precautionary pics of the fuse box to compare it the rendering in the owners manual. When I got the car back, having read the report, I got home, popped the hood and opened the fuse box. The 40 amp fuses were in the exact spot when I first took the pic. I took another one with time stamps on both and sent them to the general manager and service manager. I was told because of "what I did" the extended warranty would pay. The dealership refunded my money but really never identified the problem.
Compounding the problem was when I picked the car up that evening the oil pressure indicator light started to flicker and them illuminate at a standing stop. Of course they couldn't take the car right away. I had to leave the car days before the new appt date as I heading out of town.
Came back to find they replaced a "faulty" oil sensor/sending unit, fully covered. Sort of relieved for the time being; thought of impending engine failure, so common with this engine.
So from the time I picked up the car from the oil sensor repair on Saturday, May 13th to Sunday, May 21st when leaving for Canada, I used the car sparingly through the week, putting very few miles on the car.
Drove 468 miles to Montreal, Canada on the 21st; no problems. Yesterday, the 22nd went on a couple of errands.
This morning, the 23rd, went to take my granddaughter to school and the car would not start. Chimes work, dash illumunates, radio lights up, map lights work, turn signal running lights illuminate but not the bright and no headlights. Brand new battery as I posted in an earlier post. Something is draining the battery. As I mentioned before, the illustrious TIK TOK Challenge Anti Theft Software Upgrade done almost two months, the previous issue with no crank, no start, and fuse pull accusation, and the oil light, have me pissed. I honestly don't know what the tech who accused me of pulling and misplacing the fuse actually did to resurrect the power functions that were not working. The Anti-Theft Software Upgrade I was told disabled the use of my remote starting device and that Kia was working on a fix. Told that it didn't matter if it was a Kia Remote Start or an after market one. The software upgrade took them all out. I filed with the NHSTA. Was this the culprit/the beginning of the journey down this road. Kind of strange on the drive from the second visit to the service dept for the inoperative powers and such, oil pressure indicator light illuminates on the dash in the span of 4 miles. Now this in another country. Going to check the battery, put it on a trickle charge and see if I can start the car and limp home on this coming Sunday. Wrote the dealership earlier this morning. Of course, have not heard back from them. Will be visiting corporate headquarters upon my return.
It looks like the profile of an engine (sideview).I'm curious what an emissions light on the dash looks like?
A check engine light? what is the code? even if the light is not on still there should be a stored code. if u don't have a scan tool just go to a local parts store and they'll scan it free.It looks like the profile of an engine (sideview).
Hey Chauncey, I'm not having that problem now with lights on the dash. That was the initial problem when the car wouldn't start. I should have taken the car, once I was able to get it started to the local Autozone. Understand, though, AutoZone and similar stores use low end OBD-2 scanners, so no guarantee a code gets picked up. Took it there when the oil light came on and no codes were thrown. Yesterday, afternoon I put my son's smart charger on it and left it overnight. The car started this afternoon (twice). Taking it to the local dealer for a charging system check.A check engine light? what is the code? even if the light is not on still there should be a stored code. if u don't have a scan tool just go to a local parts store and they'll scan it free.
