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2016 Kia 2016 Optima JFA
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,


First off, this is my first write up, so please let me know if anything is unclear or missing. I have attached photos to this thread. I will take more photos in the next few days, and attach them at the matching steps. This write up is still under construction


I purchased a 16 Optima (JFA) LX a few weeks ago. I live in Ohio, so needless to say it snows here. Well I had the rude awakening that Kia has decided to not have heated mirrors as a standard option on the LX. On the JFA your mirrors are only heated if they are power folding. Needless to say, I was hellbound to find a way to have heated mirrors. Iced over mirrors are no fun. :angry:


There are two ways of going about this. You can:
A) Expensive - Buy two heated mirrors from the dealer for over $700. They are plug and play
B ) Cheap - Purchase both left and right heated mirrors (glass only) for roughly $70 and do some relatively easy custom wiring.


I opted for B, cheap.


This is a really pretty easy modification for someone with basic automotive wiring skills. It is forgiving.


Alright, here we go.


What you will need:
Both left and right heated mirror glass. Part Numbers - 87611 D5010 (LH side) 87621 D5010 (RH side)
Soldering iron
Rosin Core (NOT ACID) solder
18 or 20 gauge wire
Heat shrink tubing
Female terminals for the main mirror connector and for the glass itself (if you have access to them, they come in the Kia wiring harness repair kits that dealer technicians use)
Wire Cutters
Wire Strippers
Small Pick
10mm socket and ratchet
Plastic trim tool or other suitable device




Step one: Kia has already done the hard work for you. The entire vehicle is wired for the heated mirrors, except the mirrors themselves. The heated mirrors are controlled by the rear defrost button.


Step two: Remove the mirrors from the vehicle. This is very simple, using a plastic trim tool (or whatever else you have that will work, flathead etc.) remove the trim cover on the inside of the door that is directly behind the mirror. It just pops off, pull straight back on it. Next, unplug the mirror connector, it may be tucked down in the door panel a hair. Just pull up gently and unplug it. Next, remove the 3 10mm bolts. Pull straight out on the mirror to remove, it may take some wiggling and tugging.


Step three: Now it's time to remove your worthless pain in the ass non heated glass. This can be a bit tricky to do if you don't want to break it. It doesn't really matter if you do break the glass though as you won't be reusing it. The glass just snaps on to the power mirror actuator. Take your trim tool and work it between the glass and the mirror body. Pry upward to pop the glass off of the actuator. Don't worry if you just broke your glass, keep prying and get it off.


Step four: Using a small pick, pop the lower hinge cover off of the mirror. It is located on the underside of the mirror's "arm".


Step Five Remove the mirror's shell. This is the worst part in my opinion. It is the large body color painted piece above the mirror's turn signal. If you look at the inside of the mirror (behind where the glass goes) you will see a squeeze tab. Using needle nose pliers, squeeze these tabs together and push backwards with significant force. Make sure you're not supporting the mirror by the shell while you do this, otherwise you will be working against yourself and get nowhere. This should pop the corner of the mirror shell outward. At this point, you can use a plastic trim tool to work your way around the rest of the shell popping it the rest of the way off. It is only held on by clips, no fasteners. Be patient and try not to break your mirror shell!!


Step Six: Go get a beer or hard liquor to ease the frustration you just built up trying to get the mirror shells of. I strongly recommend a Jack and Coke right about now.


Step Seven: Here's where it gets fun and the wiring begins. First cut two lengths of 18 or 20 gauge wire (I can't remember which, whatever size matches the rest of the mirror wiring) about 2 feet long. These will be the power wires. Then cut two more lengths of wire about a foot long. These will be our ground wires.


Step Eight: Routing the wiring is a bit difficult. And darn near impossible at the mirror base where the wiring comes out. They plastic weld the mirror base together after installing the wiring at the factory, so it does not fish through here well. I took a 1/4 inch drill bit and drilled through the plastic, directly by the bung where the wiring comes out of the mirror. This allows you to easily route your wiring. You may be able to fish it through, but I don't have the patience or see the need to go through the trouble. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DRILL THROUGH THE PLASTIC AND THEN INTO THE FACTORY WIRING BELOW. Now that you have this hole drilled, run your 2' length of wiring that you just cut through this hole. Follow the factory wiring into the mirror body itself. Bam! Your power wire has been ran. Do this on both mirrors.


This is a poor picture, but you can see where the brown wire I ran goes through the hole I drilled.




Step Nine (two options) Option A: If you have access to a Kia wiring terminal kit, grab a female terminal that is the same or close to the ones used by the factory in the mirror connector. Strip a small piece off the end of the wire that you just ran, on the mirror's connector side. Attach the terminal, crimp it with pliers, and I soldered mine. To open the factory connector, use a small pick. There is a small "door" that locks the terminals down on the back of the connector. Pry this up and off. You now have access to the inside of the connector. Slide your new wire into the back of the 4th hole in the connector, it will be directly between two factory wires (A white with black tracer and a solid black). push it all the way in, then reinstall the connector lock that you removed.


Step Nine Option B: If you don't have access to the Kia terminal kit; go to your local wal-mart/meijer/auto parts store and find a set of small blade terminals (both male and female, you will need two of each) that will fit the wiring. Strip a small piece of wire off of the end of the wire you just ran (on the mirror's (not glass) main connector side). Now crimp on a female terminal. Next, access the back side of the connector that is located behind the door panel. You will have to remove the door panel to do this. Once you have access to the mirror's female connector located on the door harness, find the 4th wire in. It is pink with a black tracer, it will be directly between two factory wires (A white with black tracer and a solid black). This is the factory heated mirror power wire. Cut this wire in half (or T-tap it if you like, i'm keeping simple for the tutorial) near the connector. Strip a small piece off the end off of the wire (coming from the harness, not the piece left on the connector) and crimp the male terminal onto this wire. Do not connect the two terminals together at this point


Step 10 (If you performed Option A for step 9): If you used the terminal kit follow this. Pull the excess wiring through the mirror's body and out where the glass would be, leave it loose, but not a ton of extra wire in the body of the mirror. Pull it through the mirror where it will line up with the terminals on the back of the heated glass (top right corner) Cut the wiring to where it sticks out about two inches past where the glass would be if it were installed. Now find the female terminals that will fit or can be modified to fit the two male terminals on the back of the heated glass. Strip the wire and crimp/solder these terminals on. Then, using a half inch of heat shrink, heat shrink around the the terminal where the wire attaches. That's it, you're finished with the power side of your new heated mirrors!


Step 10 (If you performed Option B for step 9): Loosely install the mirror back onto the door. Take the wire you ran with the female terminal and pull it out to where it has enough slack to connect to the Male terminal you installed on the door harness. Using electrical tape, tape the wire you just ran to the factory wiring on the mirror so that it does not slide in or out. Pull the excess wiring through the mirror's body and out where the glass would be, leave it loose, but not a ton of extra wire in the body of the mirror. Pull it through the hole in the mirror where it will line up with the terminals on the back of the heated glass (top right corner) Cut the wiring to where it sticks out about two inches past where the glass would be if it were installed. If you can find female terminals that fit the male terminals on the back of the heated glass, great! Crimp it onto the end of the newly ran wire. If not, you will need to solder these connections later.


See next post, it cut me off here at 10,000 characters




**I ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGES OR INJURIES SUSTAINED WHILE ATTEMPTING THIS WRITE UP. PERFORM AT YOUR OWN RISK**
 

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2016 Kia 2016 Optima JFA
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Discussion Starter #2
Step 11: Now we install the ground side. The factory shares the ground for the mirror's turn signal with the heated mirrors as well. This is what we are going to do too. Using a razor blade, cut the cloth tape from the wiring harness inside the mirror body. You will see a red and black wire running from the back of the turn signal. This black wire is what we're interested in. After cutting back the cloth tape, pull the black wire from the turn signal outward from the rest of the wires. Cut it in half about an inch and a half or two away from the turn signal. Strip a small section of both ends. Take a half inch piece of small shrink tubing and slide it over the wire going to the turn signal. Next, take your 1' wire you cut and twist it onto the black mirror wire going to the mirror's connector. Twist the black wire coming from turn signal onto these other two wires. At this point you have three wires twisted together in a straight line so the heat shrink can slide over it. Solder these together. Now slide your shrink tubing over the soldered connection and shrink it.


Step 12: Run your ground wire that you just soldered out the face of the mirror to where your power wire is hanging out. Do what you did to the power wire to your ground wire as well. Cut it to the same length and either put a terminal on it, or solder it to the glass terminal.


Step 13: Attach your power and ground wires to the male terminals on the heated glass. It does not matter which terminal you connect to. It will work connected either way. If you don't have the female terminals on your new wiring, solder and heat shrink here.


Step 14: You're finished wiring! Go apply burn ointment to your finger because you forgot the soldering iron was sitting right next to you and you decided to rest your hand on it. Also repeat step Six here.


Step 15: It's all down hill from here. After making your connections at the heated glass, set the heated glass on the mirror actuator. Line the tabs up and push directly down (IN THE CENTER OF THE MIRROR - IF YOU PUSH FROM THE EDGES YOU WILL BREAK YOUR NEW GLASS!!!) You will hear it click and the mirror will seat. It should not be loose at this point.


Step 16: Clean up your wiring inside, electrical tape it if you want to clean things up. Now slide the shell back on and push it directly forward to engage all of the tabs. It should not be loose at all. Make sure all the tabs are lines up correctly before applying pressure to avoid breaking them.


Step 17: Reinstall the lower cover located on the mirror arm


Step 18: Install the mirror back on the vehicle. Snug up the 3 10mm bolts. Connect your mirror connector to the door harness, and if you wired in separate terminals for the wiring you just made, connect those too.


Step 19: Install mirror trim cover on inside of door. Just push straight on


Step 20: You're finished!!!!!! Turn your vehicle on and turn on the rear defroster. Wait a few minutes then feel the glass on your heated mirrors. It should be warm.


That's it. All there is to it. Now you have heated mirrors and don't have to scrape them in the morning or worry about them freezing up while driving.




**I ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGES OR INJURIES SUSTAINED WHILE ATTEMPTING THIS WRITE UP. PERFORM AT YOUR OWN RISK**
 

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2016 Kia 2016 Optima JFA
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13 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Wish I had that problem! I noticed I didn't have heated mirrors the morning after buying my car lol.
 

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2016 Kia 2016 Optima JFA
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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the DIY but I strongly believe that these heated mirrors should be standard across all trims, I just couldn't believe that Kia didn't include them in the base model. After all this is 2016 cars we're talking about lol.


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I strongly agree too! It's insane. I was mad when i found out it didn't. Thought it was standard. That's why I went through all this trouble.
 

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Your K5 Optima Vendor
2017 Tesla Model X
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28,707 Posts
Nice write up and great way to save some money on the cost as well.

Just a heads up to anyone that comes across this DIY but is not as handy doing installs, we can order the power folding mirrors from Korea for much much less than a US dealer would charge for them.

I'm also surprised they did not come standard on all models, but makes sense that the base model LX does not come with them from factory.
 

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2018 Optima
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47 Posts
Nice write up and great way to save some money on the cost as well.

Just a heads up to anyone that comes across this DIY but is not as handy doing installs, we can order the power folding mirrors from Korea for much much less than a US dealer would charge for them.

I'm also surprised they did not come standard on all models, but makes sense that the base model LX does not come with them from factory.
Don't know if this has changed in 2017, but does anyone know if heated mirrors are on the EX trim? I don't have them on my current car (not an Optima), and I was super irritated when it came to winter time and realized it wasn't a feature I have.




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