[nh19926]

Car: 2016 Kia Optima LX, 2.4L with 60K miles.

New Parts: Battery (couple months old) and put in a larger CCA battery. Intake/Valve cover gasket this week. Plugs all new as of couple months ago, transmission fluids flushed and all new, brakes new, tires new, Throttle Position sensor 6 months ago and a couple other things... misc.

Start Problem is intermittent. I can get into the car and it starts and runs totally normal. Drives normal, radio, lights... all working.
Stop the car and go shopping and come back. Interior lights come on normal, lights works, etc.... but car will not start. Ignition switch feels normal, but starter will click over and over, and not start car. Also dash lights will all flicker. All acting like a loose battery terminal or bad battery.

Check charging circuit and is fine from the alternator and no lose connections .... I also believe the starter is fine. Terminals around batter look new and fine. My engine is very clean and you could "eat off of it". I am in my 60's and rebuilt a few engines (Camaro's, etc). I take care of my things....

First thought was the Interrupt switch. But putting car in Park or Neutral made no difference - the problem continued. Also this would not cause the dash lights to flicker when trying to start the car (I assume). I am wondering if the ignition switch is going bad ????? I had this same problem on my old Chrysler and changed that one 2 times over the years, but symptoms are the same.

Looking for feedback.... I can order the whole ignition assembly and then just remove the switch on the rear and put on my ignition. I do not need the new keys or assembly.

Help ?
Car stuck and not moving at the moment.

 

[nh19926]

Car: 2016 Kia Optima LX, 2.4L with 60K miles.

New Parts: Battery (couple months old) and put in a larger CCA battery. Intake/Valve cover gasket this week. Plugs all new as of couple months ago, transmission fluids flushed and all new, brakes new, tires new, Throttle Position sensor 6 months ago and a couple other things... misc.

Start Problem is intermittent. I can get into the car and it starts and runs totally normal. Drives normal, radio, lights... all working.
Stop the car and go shopping and come back. Interior lights come on normal, lights works, etc.... but car will not start. Ignition switch feels normal, but starter will click over and over, and not start car. Also dash lights will all flicker. All acting like a loose battery terminal or bad battery.

Check charging circuit and is fine from the alternator and no lose connections .... I also believe the starter is fine. Terminals around batter look new and fine. My engine is very clean and you could "eat off of it". I am in my 60's and rebuilt a few engines (Camaro's, etc). I take care of my things....

First thought was the Interrupt switch. But putting car in Park or Neutral made no difference - the problem continued. Also this would not cause the dash lights to flicker when trying to start the car (I assume). I am wondering if the ignition switch is going bad ????? I had this same problem on my old Chrysler and changed that one 2 times over the years, but symptoms are the same.

Looking for feedback.... I can order the whole ignition assembly and then just remove the switch on the rear and put on my ignition. I do not need the new keys or assembly.

Help ?
Car stuck and not moving at the moment.

Oh yes, and no codes shown....

 

[HighMiles]

So it starts, you drive somewhere & park for a while, then later it 'clicks' when turning key.
After a few tries will it start then?

If so, I suspect the starter contacts are worn down enough to cause that. The click you hear is the plunger moving as it should when you turn the key all the way to the start position. So everything before that is doing it job correctly, battery, connections, cable, relay and plunger.

But the contact inside the starter motor is just too worn down to make contact to turn engine over. Doesn't appear starter rebuild kits are sold so a complete starter is in order.

Don't fret over interior lights that flicker when you are turning key all the way to start, all power is being diverted to the starter circuit, anything left over goes to what remains like interior lights - the more you turn off when trying to start the more power that goes to the starter.

Lets see if anyone else chimes in with ideas.

 

[nh19926]

Will check.... yes, you generally have a solenoid that engages the starter motor, which engages the fly-wheel. I am not too much into new cars. Will do the basics but I am really tired of this car. I sold my 1977 Z28 Camaro which had a new motor, suspension, almost everything new.... body was primed, but sold it to a young kid in Texas. Came with his father and a trailer.... Was the old Muscle car type. Calif Smog / state kept screwing with me. I had every receipt, and original Carb Certificates from back in the day.... my car was stock, but everyone was afraid to touch it or smog it. Some thought I was an inspector testing them.... tired of going to a referrer station to smog my street legal Camaro, so I sold it. Calif will not exempt it either which is stupid for being 43 years old or so.... and the car was clean on emissions too - way below required values. Can't wait to leave Calif.....

Anyway, I got this 2016 Kia so I would not supposedly have to work on it. Been one headache after another. One repair after another and the wife wants us to dump it - I agree.

 

[HighMiles]

I get you, toyota is more reliable. My 01 4runner is at 328K and all original, everything just works. I like Cali, yet I only visit my family for a few weeks and split, so I don't get to see all the 'bad', just the sweet parts and there are quite a few of those.

 

[nh19926]

Agree, used to have a Toyt, Acura, and some others..... but dumped t he acura because the morons put the transmission filter in the middle of the transmission. Had to remove and strip down the trans just to change the filter.... bad design... dumped it . Toyt (depending on model) had some last, others were crap... depends on manuf location. My Olds Cutlass Supreme 1970's had 130K when sold it and it ran like a new car, my 1977 Z28 first engine had 330K miles before replacing... all my old cars lasted, but the new cars... I have had 3 and they all broke down under 50K. This Kia has been repaired 5 times with under 40K ( all in warranty), but now I am stuck doing their dirty work for poor designs and/or cheap parts.

 

[nh19926]

Will check.... yes, you generally have a solenoid that engages the starter motor, which engages the fly-wheel. I am not too much into new cars. Will do the basics but I am really tired of this car. I sold my 1977 Z28 Camaro which had a new motor, suspension, almost everything new.... body was primed, but sold it to a young kid in Texas. Came with his father and a trailer.... Was the old Muscle car type. Calif Smog / state kept screwing with me. I had every receipt, and original Carb Certificates from back in the day.... my car was stock, but everyone was afraid to touch it or smog it. Some thought I was an inspector testing them.... tired of going to a referrer station to smog my street legal Camaro, so I sold it. Calif will not exempt it either which is stupid for being 43 years old or so.... and the car was clean on emissions too - way below required values. Can't wait to leave Calif.....

Anyway, I got this 2016 Kia so I would not supposedly have to work on it. Been one headache after another. One repair after another and the wife wants us to dump it - I agree.

Nov 19, 2020 - 7 pm. Decided to see if the battery was dying.... still in warranty anyway. After batt charge car ran normal, so question is why is the batt dying. You can put an amp meter in series with the lead and see if car pulling any residual current.... car was normal and fine. Went for the battery first since car was normal after charging..... if reoccurs will examine the starter or look for some unusual drain - which I did not see. ON batt return.... guy thought possibly a cell was going bad. In any even did not cost me except my time and stress. At this moment the car is working. Will see tomorrow morning if it starts properly.