2015 SXL Front Wheel Hub removal

4252 Views 13 Replies 4 Participants Last post by Turbonut, Jun 29, 2020

scythe944

Discussion Starter · Jun 27, 2020

Hey everyone, I'm trying to replace some lug bolts that I accidentally sheared off, thought it would be a simple thing. Turns out, they didn't engineer this hub assembly too well for replacing any lugs very easily.

Is there anyway to just pull the hub off without having to remove the entire assembly? I tried a puller, and it looks like it was just screwing up the axle and didn't feel like it was going to come off at all!

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I can't find any bolts to take off from the back side, there's no room to get the broken lugs out, let alone a longer new lug to go back in... I'm kinda stuck at the moment and don't want to take apart the whole thing if I can avoid it. Any have any tricks to get this accomplished?

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Xifer2020

· #2 · Jun 27, 2020

I have not had the pleasure of doing this job myself. But it looks like your on the right path. Rockauto shows the hub as 19$ (not sure if its accessible to replace via local parts store) and doesn't look like there is anything special. Just gotta break free the rust. Penetrating oil and time. If you have a torch a little heat always helps.

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Bob2C

· #3 · Jun 27, 2020

Here is the service manual for disassembly.

Kia Optima: Replacement - Front Hub / Knuckle. Repair procedures - Front Axle Assembly - Driveshaft and axle - Kia Optima TF 2011-2023 Service Manual

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scythe944

Discussion Starter · #4 · Jun 27, 2020

Thanks Bob2C, I found that too, was just hoping I didn't have to pull the whole knuckle and axle assembly apart just to get some lugs out. I guess this confirms my fear that there are no easier ways to do it. I might just try to hack off the tip of the lug that is messed up and hope there's enough thread left to get a new lug nut on.

Oh well, thanks!

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scythe944

Discussion Starter · #5 · Jun 27, 2020

Xifer2020 said:
I have not had the pleasure of doing this job myself. But it looks like your on the right path. Rockauto shows the hub as 19$ (not sure if its accessible to replace via local parts store) and doesn't look like there is anything special. Just gotta break free the rust. Penetrating oil and time. If you have a torch a little heat always helps.

I might try that too, thanks!

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Bob2C

· #6 · Jun 27, 2020

scythe944 said:
Thanks Bob2C, I found that too, was just hoping I didn't have to pull the whole knuckle and axle assembly apart just to get some lugs out. I guess this confirms my fear that there are no easier ways to do it. I might just try to hack off the tip of the lug that is messed up and hope there's enough thread left to get a new lug nut on.

Oh well, thanks!

Ok. I haven’t had the joy of changing one yet. I’ll hit the 10 years before mileage and if the bearing goes warranty will cover it. Good luck. Keep us posted

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scythe944

Discussion Starter · #7 · Jun 27, 2020

Xifer2020 said:
I have not had the pleasure of doing this job myself. But it looks like your on the right path. Rockauto shows the hub as 19$ (not sure if its accessible to replace via local parts store) and doesn't look like there is anything special. Just gotta break free the rust. Penetrating oil and time. If you have a torch a little heat always helps.

I also see the replacement hub, but it's for a korean built optima, and mine was from Georgia. Ironically, I don't see one for a USA built optima, and the only wheel hub / bearing assemblies they have available are for the rear, so I guess I better not screw mine up!

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scythe944

Discussion Starter · #8 · Jun 27, 2020

Xifer2020 said:
I have not had the pleasure of doing this job myself. But it looks like your on the right path. Rockauto shows the hub as 19$ (not sure if its accessible to replace via local parts store) and doesn't look like there is anything special. Just gotta break free the rust. Penetrating oil and time. If you have a torch a little heat always helps.

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scythe944

Discussion Starter · #9 · Jun 27, 2020

Ugh, screwing up more than I thought I'd have to now.

Driveshaft pushed back when I was trying to pull the hub off, now it's cocked at a weird angle.

Also, the bolts on the top are stripping as I try to get them off...

Turning into a very bad day just for two stripped lug bolts.

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Turbonut

· #10 · Jun 27, 2020 (Edited)

When you remove the lower ball joint, don't remove the cinch bolt,
remove the 3 bolts/nuts holding the bj to the lca. As far as the half-shaft angle that's not a problem, but you'll need to remove the end link also and be careful prying the ABS sensor from the knuckle. The hub can be removed from the knuckle at home, but you'll need a press to remove the bearing and press everything back together.

Got a scrap yard near you? Might want to check price of the entire spindle/knuckle assembly as some can be had for $50/60.

Use a punch to drive out the knuckle/strut bolts, and those threads
that look stripped are in the knuckle so if the end threads are good, you'll be fine.

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scythe944

Discussion Starter · #11 · Jun 27, 2020

Ended up calling a buddy that owns a shop, we got the cut grinder out and cut the shield behind the hub, grinded the side lip of the new lug bolt and shimmied it in. Put everything back together and said effit. Everything went back together and the axle popped back in after I had jacked the car up some more to get a board under the jack because it was digging pits in my new driveway.

Anyway, she's sitting pretty on 5 lugs again so now I can finally get it inspected. Thanks everyone for their comments and suggestions!!!

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Turbonut

· #12 · Jun 28, 2020 (Edited)

That's one way of doing it, but as you were 1/2 way through taking it apart thought you'd continue.
Glad you've got it done, but actually can't stand grinding the hub and splitting the plate, not bad for a clunker, but for a 4 year old car????????

At least it's now derivable once again.

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scythe944

Discussion Starter · #13 · Jun 29, 2020

Turbonut said:
That's one way of doing it, but as you were 1/2 way through taking it apart thought you'd continue.
Glad you've got it done, but actually can't stand grinding the hub and splitting the plate, not bad for a clunker, but for a 4 year old car????????

At least it's now derivable once again.

I hear ya. I was panicking a bit and wanted to make it pass inspection and didn't want to rip the whole assembly out. That would have made me nervous since I'm an IT person and not a mechanic, and was already getting out of my realm too much. I replaced all 4 brake sets and rotors, even with the electronic parking brake with no help, used a jumper cable to reverse the polarity on the electronic brake system to pull the calipers in. This was turning into a cluster F really fast with me stripping the bolts and I felt like I had to get it done.

I don't mind if the shield got messed up, it just protects from brake dust and possibly something else, but I wasn't too worried about it. I just wanted to get the stupid lugs back in and get it inspected. If I had to take a 2" section out of the shroud, I figured it's fine. Can always replace it later. I feel like it was a bad engineering choice though. Should be able to pull the hub off fairly easily to replace a lug bolt, but oh well. Thanks again for the suggestions.

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Turbonut

· #14 · Jun 29, 2020

Sorry, didn't want to come across too harshly, but guess I'm just to particular. Hey, at least you did the brake job, saved a lot of money, but as the car was needed, I realize emergency tactics were needed. It's the same with most of the FWD vehicles unless your lucky to have the bolt on hubs.
If you want an easy way, like I said before, look for a knuckle/spindle assembly at the local yard as they'll come with the entire assembly, hub, spindle, backing plate. It's just a remove/install.

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