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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I wanted to get opinions. My son bought a used Optima Oct-2018 at KIA dealership in Medina OH with 77300mi. It is a 2015 Optima SXL Turbo (2.0 engine) with 86,216 miles In April the check engine light came on with various codes P0014, P0017, 87, 365. I first replaced the camshaft exhaust sensor, then both TPV Solenoids, and changed the full synth oil that only had 5k Mi on it.
This worsened the situation to now it looses power to the point of stalling. Also of note, When I open the hood, I do hear what sounds like the valves tapping when low on oil....I read this is actually the timing chain, hitting metal within the engine.)
I just now took it to the KIA dealer just now for them to confirm for me (as what I have read in many internet stories) whether it is a bad timing chain.
I heard they may have extended warranties to the 2014/2015 models for the very same engine situation on the 2013's and below, to 100,000 mi/10year coverage.
1.) Do we think its the timing chain...or another possibility?
2.) Has anyone heard bout KIA extending this coverage on these engines for this model year?
3.) Do you think the extended coverage will apply to a second owner?
4.) Anyone have any idea how much it would cost to replace the timing chain...I'm in Western PA? :-(

I appreciate all the thoughts/Ideas.
 

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Very unusual to have either chain, tensioner, or guide go, especially with 86k miles.
You didn 't mention if it currently had any codes, but these turbo engines are notorious for an out of adjustment wastegate, and the noise can be caused by the high pressure fuel pump.
The 2015 is included in the lifetime engine warranty for the debris issue, and that is for all owners, but the fault has to be debris issue related, oil consumption, bearings go, engine seizes, etc.

It's at the stealership now, so not much you can do, just sit back and wait for their reply.
Be sure to let us know the outcome, or prognosis.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply....It provides me a little hope. It still had all the Codes P0017, P0087, P0365, and at the very end the original P0014. I will let all know the outcome from the dealer.
 

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So I just go a call from the Kia Service Manager. For $117 they only re-looked at the sensors I installed, and stated that they found the TPV Solenoids were already clogged with sludge.
He said with the sensor change and oil change I already performed, this quick clogging indicates to them that prior poor maintenance (oil changes were not performed on schedule) created the sludge and that spending any additional money on anything but a new engine would just be throwing my money away.
I asked if he could maybe pull the oil pan to see what degree the sludge appears there, as an indicator or trying to confirm by some other means if that is indeed the problem....he asked "how much money do you want to spend investigating this?....that work will be additional cost to pull the oil pan or look any further.
His recommendations were a new or used engine. I said even though I have the other dealerships records of the oil changes as well as my own (only had it 9k mi changed it twice with full synth) he said yeah well, the results indicate poor maintenance. I said what about the warranty....he said that only covers if the bearing go bad. I disputed that but did not have any documentation to back up what I was saying. If anyone has any documentation or thoughts....let me know. :(
 

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The P0326 is a generic code, knock detection, possible camshaft timing, 87 fuel pressure too low, 17 position sensor. However, by the stealership reply, looks like a fight is on the horizon, but Kia recommends pulling the valve cover to examine the internal condition, but actually service records are not required for the engine replacement warranty, but looks like you may have additional work to do. One can even look into the engine after removing the oil filler cap to see if head is clean, no buildup.

I'd start by getting the VIN and have a dealership run the maintenance history to see what was done.
When you purchased the car was it a CPO from the dealership in Medina?

One item to keep in mind is that when the Kia engine self destructs, the "debris" IS the cause of engine sludge. If you can get info, although not necessary, call Kia customer service and explain the situation. They've been pretty good taking responsibility and see no reason why an engine wouldn't be replaced free of charge along with a loner/rental car.
 

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...that prior poor maintenance (oil changes were not performed on schedule) created the sludge...

...I said even though I have the other dealerships records of the oil changes as well as my own (only had it 9k mi changed it twice with full synth) he said yeah well, the results indicate poor maintenance.
Apparently he's never heard about the infamous Toyota engine sludge issue back in the day...
 

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What about throwing a bottle or 2 in the oil and run it. From what hear this is potent stuff. What do you have to lose.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Before I accept the car back from the dealer and pay for their "diagnostic" charge, I will ask them about KIA's recommendation to pull the valve covers to examine the internal condition.
Also, I did look in from the filler cap early on, and do not recall seeing any amount of sludge-like oil.
I do see that the synth oil seems to appear burnt rather quickly than regular oil.
That is even what I looked like when I viewed it at the time of purchase from the Medina dealer, as he saw me through the showroom window checking the oil he literally ran out the door to assure me that synth oil looks that way very quickly.(I never used synth oil prior to this car....so I didn't know whether what he said was true or not). Anyway, no...., this was not CPO vehicle. They did offer me a $1700k insurance coverage that was 12mo or 12k mi....even if I would have taken it, this issue only started after 17 months and 9k miles.

I did get the maintenance records from the dealer when I bought the car. They appeared on the Car Fax form.....but I will request those again from this dealer.

Once I gather my info I will remind this current service manager that the when the Kia engine self destructs, the "debris" IS the cause of engine sludge. My original hope was that THEY would run with this to the Kia customer service. I know that was wishful thinking. Again, I wish there was some documenation out there on the internet that showed the extension of KIA's coverage on the engines in the 2015's
I will get the KIA customer Service contact info from the dealer. Thanks for all your help. I will let everyone know the outcome.
 

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You're dealing with a non friendly, dumb dealership, you call Kia customer service, tell them the history and they'll get the new engine.

Above says it all. Wish you were around here, I'd call Kia customer service for you.
 

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I second the non friendly dumb dealership opinion. I have a 2015 sx optima as well the engine went out roughly the same time. About 72k miles engine lost power and because somehow the shaft for the turbine in the turbo bent so it was making a gnarly noise and essentially had no functioning turbo but vehicle still ran. Had that fixed pulled off the lot and the same thing happened. So turned right around gave it back to them and they made the same repair but this time I get it back for about an hour before I get to a stop light and the engine cut out when I hit the gas. Brought it back in and the engine was now seized.

It was no problem for me at all to get warranty approval as soon as it seized. They took care of the engine replacement and rental with very minimal headache other than not having the car back for a month. Maybe try a different dealership if you have one close enough to make it worth it otherwise get a hold of customer service like everyone else is saying. From what I have read some dealerships will try pretty hard to not approve the warranty work. Oh, I also bought mine used so I was the second owner and still got the warranty. Bought with 42k miles and had it for almost 2 years before the issues. Have about 2k miles on the new engine and no problems whatsoever. Dont take no for an answer and do your homework. Things should end up going your way eventually. Good luck!
 

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I have a 11 optima ex Turbo, wife ran it without telling me was due for oil change many times, ran low to point I had to add 2 quarts then change oil when I had time. Once when it had about 50k miles, a k&n filter I bought for it with the socket end had hole in it, manufactures defect(never buy that type you can put socket on). Car had about 2 quarts oil in it by time I discovered the leak. Now has 95k miles and runs like new still, if it were me, I would buy a good engine cleaner like liquid moly, don't rev engine when doing the additive, let it run about 10 minutes, drain, fill with a cheap oil, run cleaner again, drain and fill with a good synthetic, my choice is Castrol euro full synthetic 0w40. I would also pull the vvt solenoids on each end of left side of engine and clean them out with a spray cleaner like gumout or soak them if you see sludge, also change out the oil filter when adding the final oil. To make it really easy, you can buy a Chinese oil drain pump for under $20 on Amazon, put tube down oil dipstick hole, suck out all the oil, do it as many times as you want until oil comes out clear. I buy 15k mile filters, every 5k(when wife tells me) I pump out the oil, fill with just under 1 jug of new oil. Then every 15k miles I replace filter. I also have magnets on oil pan if there is any metal so it catches it.
 

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I would also check pcv valve, new oem part is $8 on Amazon and takes 3 minutes to replace.
 

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Any benefit from using a 15K mile oil filter other than only having to replace it every three oil changes (assuming 5K mile OCI)? Me, it's only another maybe 5 minutes or so to swap out the oil filter so no big deal there; I buy Kia/Hyundai OEM oil filters in bulk for ~$5-$6 each and just replace the oil filter every 5K miles.
 

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No real benefit at 5k intervals. I have a bunch of oem ones also. The boss filter on sale is pretty cheap under $10. My wife was putting 1,000s of miles a month from work driving and was easier to leave in filter longer. Now she doesn't drive at work. I have 5 vehicles so tried to make oil changes quick as possible.
 

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No real benefit at 5k intervals.
That may or may not be true, but given that in my case my vehicle is still under factory warranty there is no way I could currently try to get away with replacing the oil filter every 15K miles...and probably just as much so if you have the lifetime engine warranty. Owner's manual states replace engine oil and oil filter every 7500 miles for the 2.4L and every 6500 miles for the 1.6T and 2.0T (or 12 months for all engines, whichever comes first).
 
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