Autozone batteries are the worst in my experience and never buy them anymore. try jumping the "new" one or just take it back and have them test it.About 1.5 months ago, I started having issues with my brake lights being on after I exit the car and accelerator cutoff because the brake lights are on while im not touching the brake lights. Recently, its been getting horrible. I usually pressed the brake to temporarily get rid of the issue, but recently the accelerator cutoff has been horrible, so ive been pushing the brake pedal backward. I already knew what the issue was, he little brake pedal stopper pad. Yesterday, I got a replacement at autozone. I put it in and it was a little too big. I couldn't put the old one back in since it was broken, causing all of the issues. I put the large one in and immediately, since it was too big, i had to press the brake pedal harder in order to go into reverse or drive, and to activate the brake lights. I went home, parked it overnight, and this morning I bought a brand new brake pedal stopper pad from the Kia dealership. I had to press the brake pedal hard, because the car was off, but i put the new pad in and everything turned on electrical wise but the engine did not start. I thought it was just the battery, so since my battery has died on me multiple times because of the brake pedal issue, i had a portable jump starter. I tried using it, and still, nothing. I jumped the car and still, didn't crank. So, I charged the battery and it didnt work, so I went to autozone and the guy told me the battery was dead. He told me something about the battery and cranking, and told me it was a dud. $209 later, I had a new battery. I rushed home, connected the terminals tight AND....... the car still did not start. I have everything electrical working. Headlights, dome lights, radio, horn, ac fan and the car does not crank at all. I do hear little clicking in the engine bay, but no start.
I have tried
and it still does not start. I only hear clicking under the engine bay. It wont even attempt to crank. Has anyone ran into this problem? Besides the accelerator cut off and brake light issue caused by a deteriorated rubber piece, the car was running absolutely great before this all happened. Any tips or advice would be appreciated! It's a 2013 Optima EX GDI
- Pressing the start button once, then holding it for 10 seconds
- Using my other key fob
- Inserting the key fob into the glovebox location
- Swapping/Check fuses
- Cleaned battery terminals
- Putting the car into P and D and putting it back into P
- Starting in N
2013 Optima NO start, accessories work. Brand new battery
About 1.5 months ago, I started having issues with my brake lights being on after I exit the car and accelerator cutoff because the brake lights are on while im not touching the brake lights. Recently, its been getting horrible. I usually pressed the brake to temporarily get rid of the issue, but recently the accelerator cutoff has been horrible, so ive been pushing the brake pedal backward. I already knew what the issue was, he little brake pedal stopper pad. Yesterday, I got a replacement at autozone. I put it in and it was a little too big. I couldn't put the old one back in since it was broken, causing all of the issues. I put the large one in and immediately, since it was too big, i had to press the brake pedal harder in order to go into reverse or drive, and to activate the brake lights. I went home, parked it overnight, and this morning I bought a brand new brake pedal stopper pad from the Kia dealership. I had to press the brake pedal hard, because the car was off, but i put the new pad in and everything turned on electrical wise but the engine did not start. I thought it was just the battery, so since my battery has died on me multiple times because of the brake pedal issue, i had a portable jump starter. I tried using it, and still, nothing. I jumped the car and still, didn't crank. So, I charged the battery and it didnt work, so I went to autozone and the guy told me the battery was dead. He told me something about the battery and cranking, and told me it was a dud. $209 later, I had a new battery. I rushed home, connected the terminals tight AND....... the car still did not start. I have everything electrical working. Headlights, dome lights, radio, horn, ac fan and the car does not crank at all. I do hear little clicking in the engine bay, but no start.
I have tried
I have tried
- Pressing the start button once, then holding it for 10 seconds
- Using my other key fob
- Inserting the key fob into the glovebox location
- Swapping/Check fuses
- Cleaned battery terminals
- Putting the car into P and D and putting it back into P
- Starting in N
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Autozone batteries are the worst in my experience and never buy them anymore. try jumping the "new" one or just take it back and have them test it.
As it's probably the starter, I'd get to the starter, and check voltage at B terminal and then
check voltage at start terminal when trying to start.
One could jump the solenoid to see if starter energizes.
check voltage at start terminal when trying to start.
One could jump the solenoid to see if starter energizes.
Ok, what the heck. Went to the car today and it magically starts. It started like normal. WEIRDAs it's probably the starter, I'd get to the starter, and check voltage at B terminal and then
check voltage at start terminal when trying to start.
One could jump the solenoid to see if starter energizes.
That it is, but see what happens in the future. Not saying it's definitely the starter, but at times the starter will get in a particular spot and will only activate after numerous tries, but die again in the future. Time will tell, but if opertaing properly at this time, good to go.Ok, what the heck. Went to the car today and it magically starts. It started like normal. WEIRD
You need to buy a voltmeter. A nice DVM.
I had similar situations this past winter. On mornings when it was colder than normal, maybe 15-30 degrees c., I would go to start it(2018 lx) and it wouldn’t start. I jumped it, that didn’t work so I replaced the battery and the next morning did the same thing. I found what worked for me was putting the key into the ignition for a couple seconds and turn the key from off to acc a couple times then go from off to on and it worked. Sometimes it took a minute or 2 of playing with the ignition and key but it worked everytime, it stopped once the frigid days were past so I still don’t know the issue, I guess I’ll dig dipper into it once it gets cold again lol.
Hmm I didn't know the 2018 Optima uses a mechanical ignition switch. My 2017 is pushbutton.I had similar situations this past winter. On mornings when it was colder than normal, maybe 15-30 degrees c., I would go to start it(2018 lx) and it wouldn’t start. I jumped it, that didn’t work so I replaced the battery and the next morning did the same thing. I found what worked for me was putting the key into the ignition for a couple seconds and turn the key from off to acc a couple times then go from off to on and it worked. Sometimes it took a minute or 2 of playing with the ignition and key but it worked everytime, it stopped once the frigid days were past so I still don’t know the issue, I guess I’ll dig dipper into it once it gets cold again lol.
But pretty clear your ignition switch is bad. Not the lock tumbler but the switch assy itself is worn out.
Did someone at one point try to use a jiggle key on the ignition to steal the car. It tends to damage the cylinder sometimes. No matter what I would replace it unless you like gtting stranded at the worst possible time.
Hmm not to my knowledge, I mean if they tried they weren’t very good at it because I never noticed any physical damage to it, just obviously when it wouldn’t start I took notice of it at all, I normally just get it, insert key, and I’m on my way lol. You think it’s the assembly itself? Does the extreme cold exasperate the problem? Because like I said it only ever did it a few of the frigid mornings here in PA. Id most certainly like to get the issue fixed now and not wait until it’s 20 degrees in November and I’m running late for work haha.Hmm I didn't know the 2018 Optima uses a mechanical ignition switch. My 2017 is pushbutton.
But pretty clear your ignition switch is bad. Not the lock tumbler but the switch assy itself is worn out.
Did someone at one point try to use a jiggle key on the ignition to steal the car. It tends to damage the cylinder sometimes. No matter what I would replace it unless you like gtting stranded at the worst possible time.
Do you own a digital volt meter? Check the 12 volt battery voltage too first thing in the morning before you start the car.
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
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