Kia Optima Forums banner

1 - 1 of 1 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Speakers used were the Infinity REF-6502ix

Thanks to Cdnswe for the guidelines and encouragement to “Do the Upgrade” and inspire this how-to.
Infinity-REF6502ix.jpg

Door Removal: Pop off the door panels by first removing 2 screws from each of the door panels – 1 at the door Pull handle (to close door) and one at the door Open handle. Little covers hide the Philips screws and pop open by pushing a jewelers (very small) slot (flat head) screwdriver firmly into notch then nudging upward. Put the screws in a Tray to keep from losing them (a magnetic tray is great for this and even the dollar stores have them now for about $2).

Remove the 2 mirror bolt covers by prying them with a thin piece of plactic such as a credit card or thin spatula. Carefully pry them away.
To pry away the panels from the metal door frame use a large slot screwdriver covered with a rag, or a strong plastic tool. Begin along the bottom. The front doors have 2 slots where you insert the covered screwdriver a couple inches then pry away – it will “Pop” as the plastic anchors come out of their holes. The back doors have 1 slot. Then carefully pry the rest of the panel away moving from bottom towards the window.

Carefully lift Up and away leaving the rubber window seal in place. Wires do Not need disconnecting (unless you really want them out of the way). On the back doors it is easy to tear the plastic that covers an opening for the door handle cables. It can be re-taped if torn.

Speaker Removal: Simply unplug wiring harness then remove 4 screws and pull out speaker. Note where the harness was in line with opening for speakers as you will have to notch a small grove into the plastic to allow the new wires to pass through (very easily done with a file or drill bit).

OldSpeakerInstalled.jpg

New Speaker Preparation: This can be easy or more time consuming depending on what you bought, and if you also got new wiring harnesses to simply plug in.

Examine your speakers and decide if they can mount directly into hole using the existing mounting holes, or by drilling new pilot holes into the plastic speaker support frames, or using a possibly supplied speaker mounting bracket (might be included with new speakers).

It is easiest to dry fit a new speaker and examine how it lines up. For my installation I decided to simply drill 4 pilot holes and use screws supplied in the speaker package. I marked hole location with permanent marker while holding speaker in place, then came back to drill the holes in the plastic. This is simple if you know how to use a drill, and is very quickly done. Remember, this is the plastic mounting hole made of ABS plastic and not steel car body.

PilotHoles-SpeakerMounting.jpg

Be sure to affix the foam gasketing to the speakers, door opening, etc. to avoid rattles. Even the old speakers had a good gasket that was squeezed tight between speaker and mounting hole (stuck to speaker so not reusable).

You can buy wiring harnesses or you can reuse the wire harness connector from the old speakers bracket by snipping wires from speaker terminals then using ling nose pliers and pulling connector off bracket with a firm pull-twist motion.

Connect 9 inches of wire with terminal push connectors (or directly solder wires) to the speakers and connect the other end to the wiring harness you recuperated. Yellow is the Positive (+). It is best to solder your connections then heat shrink tube them or electrical tape them (I also like to use a small tie-wrap just in case they are pulled).

WireHarnessConnections.jpg

New Speaker installation: With your new speakers wired and ready, including the foam gasketing, put them in the holes, line up the wire through the notch you made earlier (I put a dab of silicone in each notch so the wire sits in it and will not rub against the notched area), screw them in place and plug in harness connector. I filled in the remaining holes with silicone just to seal off excess holes).

Speaker-Installed.jpg

Test them.

Reassembly: Tape up any torn plastic where car cabling passes through holes. Put blobs of silicone where mounting clips might have broken (I broke 2, 1 on each front door), unless you have spares to replace with.

In Reverse Order, follow the steps for the initial Removal of the panels.

Carefully realign the mirror screw covers snapping them in place. Test Window and Door lock operation to assure everything works.

Job done.
 
1 - 1 of 1 Posts
Top