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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Took my 2012 in for the engine swap, came back and it’s leaking air, then it made a popping noise. Kia said they would gladly swap the turbo now for $4700! Looked around, eBay, autozone, the usual suspects. Looked about to be $600. There’s like no videos in detail about changing out the turbo. Does anyone have any tips? Like where to buy, can this be done without having to take the motor out? I’d seen on here someone swapped out there turbo and after 1,000 miles thing went back to limp mode. I believe he said dealership has to calibrate the turbo with the motor? Think that is the voltage dealing with the waste gate? There’s an oil line should I just drain the motor oil while doing this?

thanks anyone.
 

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My first question would be, how did the car run before the engine was replaced?
Sure it's the turbo and not a leak in the intake system or wastegate adjustment, any CEL?
First link I came upon:
 

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Well, my thoughts are, if it ran fine before the replacement, but had problems after, the turbo didn't decide to take a dump at that time. Now, if the motor seized and happened to throw pieces of metal into the turbo, that's another story, but if that was the case, the turbo should have been replaced with the engine, compliments of Kia.

If you're talented enough to replace a turbo, take some time and check the waste gate voltage when cold 3.9/4.0 volts, then the intake system for any leaks. Look at all connections to see if they are tight, check intercooler for leaks, and turbo hose connection under the car.

Unusual in that the receipt doesn't indicate that the wg voltage was checked, There are a million videos on how to check the wg voltage, but regardless of what is said in the video, set it 3.9/4.1 max volts cold, engine not running. Use test wiring into the connection or a torque app, and to adjust, some remove the small clip, maybe purchase another just to be certain you'll have an extra incase it's dropped, and some disconnect the opposite end so as not to have any problems with the clip.

Take time to do your own inspection before replacing the turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I should’ve mentioned the waste gate was replaced previously, but after motor swap. The old one would make a rattle only in cold weather. The voltage read good no adjustments were made. Now the turbo releases all air when accelerating. You can hear it whistling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just an update...
Well the turbo was replaced and that didn't help. Stealership told me the bearings in the turbo were bad, but they looked perfectly fine. But I did find a few problems from my motor swap when they stealership did that. The aluminum pipe that goes to the turbo had a hole in it. When they put the hose clamps on they had it turned to the pipe and it rubbed and wore a hole in it. I JB welded it. The part of the turbo that goes down to the exhaust system had two missing nuts. The bottom support of the turbo that has two bolts, well one was missing. And there is I believe 8 bolts/nuts on the exhaust manifold, well those were all loose, I could turn them by hand. Still have my rattle that happens at 2k RPM that only happens in the cold/winter. Doesn't go away even when car is warmed up. And my car is still making a whistling noise when I accelerate. I can't find it but everything looks go within the turbo system, but car acts like its loosing boost.
 
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