So, you want to know how to properly detail? - Page 2
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Thread: So, you want to know how to properly detail?

  1. #11
    KMG
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    I find this entire process to be extremely exhausting. I feel like unless your paint is 40yrs old, or you're doing car shows, using a cutting compound is overkill. But when it comes to polishing, I watch all these videos where they do this little tiny section on a nice flat area of the hood. Every. Single. Time.

    Dude, show me how to use the DA on the front fenders. Or around the door handles. Or the side mirrors. Or the trunk lid. Or the front bumper. Show me how to do the difficult spots, not the hood over and over and over.

    And when I polish, do I have to use the DA?
    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck1948 View Post
    Great point.... Show the difficult areas and agree most members will be doing by hand and not machine....
    The process can seem like a lot of work when you first start out doing this. Saying that a cutting compound is overkill is however not entirely true, with proper test spots you want to try various compound/polish and pad combinations starting with the least aggressive till you achieve your/the clients desired results. For someone who does not maintain their car very well then yes, compounding and polishing is pretty pointless. There are some compounds that finish just as nicely as polishes however, and with the right pad combination will achieve excellent results in just one step. Most darker colors however, and especially black you will typically want to 2-step ( compound & polish). The goal is always to remove the least amount of clear as possible while removing any defects in the finish. Sanding should always be a last resort as you are going to quickly remove clear, and most factory paint jobs have fairly thin clear on them to begin with. If you do need to do any sanding you will want to take some depth reading with a Paint Thickness Guage.

    As for working on Fenders and other tighter areas you will work them much like you would a larger flat area. You want to keep the pad flat to the surface, however it also helps to have varies pad sizes to use in those tighter areas.


    There will also be areas that you will just need to do by hand, such as the cups behind door handles.

    These areas almost always have scratches, and in most cases are removed pretty easily just using a microfiber rag and compound or polish by hand.


    I am going to be doing our Optima here in the next few weeks as it has been almost 2 years since I originally worked on it, and will put together an in depth write up of the process with lots of pictures.
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  3. #12
    OptimaForums Veteran Triple-K.Hybrid's Avatar
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    Might as well teach some of our fellow members how to buff their headlights too (Here's a sample of my work)



    You like to use DA? i dont, specially on black Benz





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  4. #13
    KMG
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    I rarely ever get out my rotary when working on anything. With todays large throw polishers, they will work just as quick and be much safer to use. And yes even with the Ceramiclear like on a Mercedes I still do not see the need to use a rotary. This thread is intended to help people with very little knowledge of this type of work do work on their own cars, and the dual-action is by far the safest tool for a novice to use on their own car. Here is a link to a great starter package for someone wanting learn to work on their own vehicle. I would also pick up a few more pads however. You have should have at least three (3) of the orange cutting pads and three (3) of the white polishing pads to do any entire vehicle.

    Headlights are always fun to work on, and might be one of my favorite things to do. Here is a link to a blog I wrote (Restore Your Heavily Oxidized Headlights) that will walk someone through the process that wants to restore their own headlights.





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  6. #14
    Shuttle Driver savageindian's Avatar
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    I have a lot of fear using power tools to polish my car. I am always hearing about burning the paint.
    Proud Owner of 2013 Kia Optima, bought new. Live in Coastal South Carolina. Charles is the name, Optima is my game, although very much a novice.



  7. #15
    OptimaForums Veteran Triple-K.Hybrid's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by savageindian View Post
    I have a lot of fear using power tools to polish my car. I am always hearing about burning the paint.
    Always remember, as a first timer or user of polishing machines, make sure you go SLOW, on the machines there should be numbers to adjust the speed, ALWAYS GO SLOW, when you think its not changing anything then go a bit faster, dont put too much pressure on the polisher as well, burned paint starts when you stay on one spot or either your machine is too fast and you're moving too slow..

    On my part, i like doing stuff to my car, if i mess up something its mine. same thing with any parts i install to any cars.

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  8. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by savageindian View Post
    I have a lot of fear using power tools to polish my car. I am always hearing about burning the paint.
    This is impossible with a PC7424. Start off learning with one. You can hold the pad in one spot with as much pressure as you can apply and it will not burn the paint.

    Random Orbitals will not burn. Rotaries or forced rotation will.

  9. #17
    KMG
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    This statement is not entirely true. You can burn through the clear with any tool if there is not adequate material to work with. In most cases it is not an issue, however if you get heavily into correction work there are going to be instances where very little clear is left and if you use something too aggressive you can burn through the clear. For people on this forum this is most likely never going to be an issue though.
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