[SX-T] : Looking for brakes - Page 3
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Thread: Looking for brakes

  1. #21
    Learner's Permit Laguna's Avatar
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    I think this post is worth locking at this point.
    2013 Optima SXL - Titanium

    Chicago's Dedicated Auto Detailing

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  3. #22
    Riding Lawn Mower
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    I agree. It is very tiresome to deal with lonely internet people who think they are car geniuses and spread misinformation.

    Quote Originally Posted by Laguna View Post
    I think this post is worth locking at this point.

  4. #23
    Riding Lawn Mower
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    Good decision! 🤣. Eliminating the gimmicky exotic rotor market one buyer at a time!

    Quote Originally Posted by 1st timer View Post
    Well....thank you all for the entertaining advice. In the end, I went with traditional rotors. Thanks again.

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  6. #24
    Riding Lawn Mower
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    $105?!?! Your nonsense continues unabated. Perhaps on deep clearance pricing because noone is still dumb enough to buy another set of drilled/slotted rotors.

    When I did a brief search it doesn't even look like the stinger comes with drilled rotors anymore.

    And fyi I got 92k miles on my stock traditional rotors and pads. And I drive pretty hard. So what? Driver style and mile type driven matters 100x more than what specific product gets used for a specific application.

    You provide such useless advice it's laughable. Fortunately OP did the right thing and didn't listen to you. As should noone else.

    Quote Originally Posted by Turbonut View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Freetree123 View Post
    Just like race car teams enjoy taking their entire engine apart after every race. So obviously the problem here is you are giving racing high performance advice to people who just use their vehicles to get groceries.

    I stand by my opinion on slotted and other exotic rotor designs.

    If you like changing pads and rotors every 30k miles with overall worse performance than have at it. This is based on hearing personal testimonies from dozens of people who have tried exotic rotors.

    For almost EVERYONE ELSE STICK WITH TRADITIONAL ROTORS. To try and sell exotic rotors to everyday people just because it rains where they live is utterly ridiculous.

    I think we have beat this horse to death. But if you continue to recommend exotic rotors to everyday people you are just a moron and I don't care of your credentials. Obviously people in the industry have an incentive to rip people off. And you should just be honest about your motives.
    Are you really that dumb?

    I stated previously that the 2.0T had drilled/slotted rotors installed when I purchased the car and have driven over 60,000 miles since, and still have the rotors pads as purchased.

    You can purchase these exotic drilled & slotted rotors, front and rear, along with ceramic pads for $105.

    Better stay off the Forum, the more you post, the dumber you get.

  7. #25
    Senior Wrench Monkey
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freetree123 View Post
    $105?!?! Your nonsense continues unabated. Perhaps on deep clearance pricing because noone is still dumb enough to buy another set of drilled/slotted rotors.

    When I did a brief search it doesn't even look like the stinger comes with drilled rotors anymore.

    And fyi I got 92k miles on my stock traditional rotors and pads. And I drive pretty hard. So what? Driver style and mile type driven matters 100x more than what specific product gets used for a specific application.

    You provide such useless advice it's laughable. Fortunately OP did the right thing and didn't listen to you. As should noone else.
    Check ebay Kia Optima and you'll see the price.

    FYI-You sent me a PM a while back asking my opinion on tires/wheels, guess you forgot about that one.

    On our RX7 Turbo, I have 212,000 miles on the original rotors, suspension etc, what does that prove?
    It's like comparing apples and oranges.

    Time for lunch.
    Last edited by Turbonut; 05-30-2019 at 11:46 AM.

  8. #26
    Learner's Permit
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1st timer View Post
    Well....thank you all for the entertaining advice. In the end, I went with traditional rotors. Thanks again.
    Good job 1st timer. I'm sure they will serve you well.

    This, as with many other internet forums, are filled with people who are willing to give advice and information...the hard part is deciphering who has "been there and done it" and those that have just read about it.

  9. The Following User Says Kudos to WS6_Keith For This Useful Post:


  10. #27
    Lot Attendant
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    LOL trying to get in a word here before the mods lock this thread due to folks getting a bit too argumentative--I don't have a dog in this fight but back in the day I purchased a Baer big-brake kit to upgrade the relatively puny brakes on my 2004 Yukon Denali; the rotors that came with the kit were slotted and drilled, but that's not why I went with the Baer kit--it just so happened that the only rotor choice for the kit was slotted/drilled. Whether the fact that the rotors were slotted/drilled made any difference (i.e., improvement) in braking performance, who knows...but I do know that my butt-meter tells me that my SUV braking performance is much improved...probably more so due to the fact that the rotors are +1 and +2 inches larger in diameter compared to the OEM rotors, and that the Baer calipers have larger dual pistons.

  11. #28
    JasonS's Avatar
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    For daily driving blanks are cheap and work well. Slotted rotors do help keeps pads fresh and free of debris. In my personal experience, I have always swapped out all my vehicle rotors to slotted and have always experienced increase bite and stopping power. Many higher end (and some not so high) add slotted or cross drilled rotors to their cars. Manufacturers wouldn't take on the liability if those solutions didn't work well. On my Optima (and previous Pontiacs) I've used cross drilled on the fronts. Work just as well as slotted. Cross drilled are shown to keep rotors temps lower, and not gonna fight about it since there is so much supporting evidence online. Its up to you what you want. Blacks are cheap and work. Slotted, IMO, work better and keep the pads clean and clear. Drilled (on our cars) is more looks but Im positive for racing and auto-x applications, a benefit.
    Dynojet: 294 whp/305 torque/24lbs boost with a custom BTR tune with full bolt-ons.
    2012 Optima EX-T Spicy Red Showroom https://www.optimaforums.com/forum/4...-showroom.html w/ the following MODs: 845 Motorsports FMIC|845 Motorsports 4" Intake|845 Motorsports Charge Pipe|Nameless Midpipe|Nameless Downpipe|Synapse V3 BOV|BTR Custom Tune|Magnaflow Exhaust|Saikou Michi OCC's|Ultra Racing FSTB|kSport Coilovers|R1 Concepts rotors|and MORE...

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