waste gate actuator adjustment for turbo charged optima power loss problem - Page 17
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Thread: waste gate actuator adjustment for turbo charged optima power loss problem

  1. #161
    OptimaForums Veteran Blinky_k5's Avatar
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    Little update, this morning driving the work the CEL was still on, parked al day at work and when I got off in the evening, the light was still on but no more limp mode, still hearing the wastegate actuator making a lot of noise though, after driving home and getting ready and leaving again, got in the car and the CEL was gone, power is normal but the shitter noise is still present, sucks I can't have them check the actuator without a CEL light on Monday now :/

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  3. #162
    OptimaForums Veteran Blinky_k5's Avatar
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    Update from Kia dealership, actuator rod bent , warranty replacement for new wastegate actuator, hopefully no more problems picking up the car in a few days

  4. #163
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    Hi all,
    Two weeks ago my wife told me she was having the loss of power issue. I went to the local Advance Auto store to have the code read. I was given the code P2562 but was told by the Advance Auto representative that there was nothing telling them what the code meant. So I went home and looked up the code P2562 and learned it meant (Turbo charger input insufficient). I then came here and searched the forum and read up on it. I gathered all the information I was able to find in this thread and a few others.
    So I was feeling quite confident I would have this taken care of quite easily. But when I read the voltage on my meter I was getting -11.4 vdc at the full opened swing of the Electric WGT Control Actuator on the yellow wire and -7.2 vdc at the closed swing of the Actuator. I double checked my meter on the car battery getting -11.4 vdc between the battery terminal posts. I double checked my meter and confirmed that the positive red lead was in the proper input of my meter and that my negative lead was in its proper negative input on my meter. I had my negative lead (black) connected to the car battery negative and was using the positive (red) lead to read the voltage from the actuator using the needle method mentioned in the thread. I switched the leads to see what I would get across the battery and was getting 11.4 vdc across the battery posts, 11.4 vdc at the opened end of the Actuator, and 7.2 vdc at the closed end of the Actuator. I then checked my meter against household battery's getting 1.5 vdc across a AA battery and 9 vdc on a 9 v battery.
    At this point I was convinced the Actuator must be bad. But since I was there already there and set to make the adjustment I decided that if there was any chance the meter readings were just off I might as well try a minor adjustment. Making an educated guess I decided that a minor shortening of the rod one full revolution would be the best adjustment. So I made my adjustment and checked my voltages again. I was now getting -11.4 to -7.4. Figuring that the actuator was bad and my adjustment was a mute effort I decided to take a test run. To my complete surprise the car was at full power. Somehow my mixed up meter reading did not indicate my Actuator was bad. For this I thank all who have participated in this thread.
    But now I wonder if anyone can help me wrap my mind around my mixed meter readings? I welcome any explanation.

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  6. #164
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    Quote Originally Posted by sixisall2001 View Post
    Hi all,
    Two weeks ago my wife told me she was having the loss of power issue. I went to the local Advance Auto store to have the code read. I was given the code P2562 but was told by the Advance Auto representative that there was nothing telling them what the code meant. So I went home and looked up the code P2562 and learned it meant (Turbo charger input insufficient). I then came here and searched the forum and read up on it. I gathered all the information I was able to find in this thread and a few others.
    So I was feeling quite confident I would have this taken care of quite easily. But when I read the voltage on my meter I was getting -11.4 vdc at the full opened swing of the Electric WGT Control Actuator on the yellow wire and -7.2 vdc at the closed swing of the Actuator. I double checked my meter on the car battery getting -11.4 vdc between the battery terminal posts. I double checked my meter and confirmed that the positive red lead was in the proper input of my meter and that my negative lead was in its proper negative input on my meter. I had my negative lead (black) connected to the car battery negative and was using the positive (red) lead to read the voltage from the actuator using the needle method mentioned in the thread. I switched the leads to see what I would get across the battery and was getting 11.4 vdc across the battery posts, 11.4 vdc at the opened end of the Actuator, and 7.2 vdc at the closed end of the Actuator. I then checked my meter against household battery's getting 1.5 vdc across a AA battery and 9 vdc on a 9 v battery.
    At this point I was convinced the Actuator must be bad. But since I was there already there and set to make the adjustment I decided that if there was any chance the meter readings were just off I might as well try a minor adjustment. Making an educated guess I decided that a minor shortening of the rod one full revolution would be the best adjustment. So I made my adjustment and checked my voltages again. I was now getting -11.4 to -7.4. Figuring that the actuator was bad and my adjustment was a mute effort I decided to take a test run. To my complete surprise the car was at full power. Somehow my mixed up meter reading did not indicate my Actuator was bad. For this I thank all who have participated in this thread.
    But now I wonder if anyone can help me wrap my mind around my mixed meter readings? I welcome any explanation.
    Not sure (read back in the thread) but I think you have to measure between two of the wires on the harness, not to the car's negative ground point.
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  7. #165
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    Quote Originally Posted by 11snowwhitesx View Post
    Here's a DIY video I did quickly on my iPhone.

    This video was very helpful and I was able to get this done this afternoon. Motor was a bit warm when I adjusted to 4.11 and as the engine got cooler, it went up to 4.15 so I will let it sit over night and check it again in the morning. Hopefully it will settle near 4.2 when its cold and I'll call it good. I used torque to monitor the EWGA voltage while I drove around and noticed that as the engine temp increased the voltage dropped to 3.9-4.0. There's an inverse relationship to voltage and engine temp.
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  8. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by williamhood View Post
    Not sure (read back in the thread) but I think you have to measure between two of the wires on the harness, not to the car's negative ground point.
    You can measure between the yellow wire and the negative battery terminal. Mine read 4.33 cold last night.
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  9. #167
    Riding Lawn Mower Zoom49's Avatar
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    Finally had the loss of power and fine upon restart. Also had Cel for wastegate, my 2011 is at 65,000 miles.
    Took about an hour to complete the adjustment. Good as new now. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread.
    11 Satin Optima SX premium w/o nav. 35% tint, 3D K badges with K5 emblem, Poweraxle 91 tune

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  11. #168
    Riding Lawn Mower
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    I have a 2012 Optima SX 2.0L
    Anyways, I have been reading these threads because of my own wastegate issues. I took the car to the dealer for my issues and they said the voltage was high at 4.75V and should be set to 4.0V but everything I see on here is 4.2V. Can anyone definitively tell me what is the correct voltage foe my car so I can make the adjustments? Thanks so much!!

  12. #169
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    Quote Originally Posted by sawilli View Post
    I have a 2012 Optima SX 2.0L
    Anyways, I have been reading these threads because of my own wastegate issues. I took the car to the dealer for my issues and they said the voltage was high at 4.75V and should be set to 4.0V but everything I see on here is 4.2V. Can anyone definitively tell me what is the correct voltage foe my car so I can make the adjustments? Thanks so much!!
    I think the range is slightly different between the Sonata and the Optima but I'm thinking that it is 4.1V±0.1V (range is 4.0V to 4.2V for normal).
    __________________________________________________ _______________
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